Good News

S

sask boy

Ammo Smith
Nov 4, 2007
5,999
14
Well my action finally arrived and I am going to send up my barrel and trigger to RMR next week. They are hoping that the Manner stocks should be in within a couple of weeks :). This will make it twice as long as they said it would take :( but I guess I can't do anything about it.
Now help me decide do we Powder Coat it or Cerakote it & what colour? My stock is a desert sand colour.
Look forward to hearing what you all think :wink:

Blessings,
Dan
 
Dan,
One vote for Cerakote here! It's some really tough stuff. I dropped the muzzle of my Nosler Legacy about 6 inches onto the tile of our kitchen floor when I was cleaning it. It was hard enough that I thought I probably screwed up the muzzle/crown and surely chipped the Cerakote. Lucky for me nothing happened to the muzzle or the crown, but you can believe I was impressed. A buddy's tactical rifle is coated in the coyote tan color and looks pretty sharp with his tan McMillan mcswirley stock.
Joe
 
Matte Black buddy! CeraKote is awesome. How are you chambering it long throat for the 160AB?

Here's my 338 in a Micky that I finish the metal on.
 

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I do believe that Matt black cerakote is the way I am going. I really only know the basics when it comes to the cutting of the barrel and fitting it to the action. I am not sure which would be the best for my 280AI.
I think that I am going to talk with Rod or one of the guys at RMR regarding which application would be best. I plan on using ABLRs when they come north of the border and until then I will likely be using straight ABs either 140 or 160gr.
I have already picked up dies from RCBS & also I picked up a box of Nosler brass which was 2.00 under a C-note here in Regina :evil:
My PacNor barrel has 1-9 twist so I can shoot heavy stuff if I want but I have my 35 Whelen made by RMR for that.
Decisions, Decisions, Decisions :wink:

Blessings,
Dan
 
BK":22gexlst said:
Is it too late to change the stock color to purple? :)
Click to expand...

Good choice, Kurt. Or perhaps Dan would favour a more subtle shade such as magenta or fuchsia or amethyst.
 
OK, Mike, you are cut off from the home improvement warehouses...
 
Those stocks accept paint lime green fluorescent orange John Deere green caterpillar yellow the combinations are endless!
 
You guys are sick,sick people :shock:. I am going to pick up my barrel & trigger today.

Blessings,
Dan
 
sask boy":hz8bqofk said:
I really only know the basics when it comes to the cutting of the barrel and fitting it to the action. I am not sure which would be the best for my 280AI.
I think that I am going to talk with Rod or one of the guys at RMR regarding which application would be best. I plan on using ABLRs when they come north of the border and until then I will likely be using straight ABs either 140 or 160gr.

Blessings,
Dan
Click to expand...

Dan,

Reamers come with a preset throat length. Most likely you have plenty of room in your mag box for seating the heavier bullets long to gain case capacity/powder volume which equals more velocity. If the throat is short on their reamer but they have a throating reamer they can adjust the throat to the length you want. If that is the case you would need to provide them with a dummy round for how you want it throated.

Fitting a barrel is rather simple task once it is dialed in to run true. On the chamber end, once it is dialed in, typically you start by machining the flat for the action threads and receiver abutment. Then you machine the threads. Usually you only thread deep enough to allow the receiver to screw on and no more. That keeps it snug when tightened down. The next step is to machine the bolt nose recess, if it requires one. Remington and their clones usually do but Savages and Winchesters don't. After that it's to the chamber. I rough my chambers with a under size drill bit and a boring bar to about a inch of chamber left. This speeds up the chambering process and is less wear and tear on the reamers. After that it's running the reamer in. Which I usually run about .075" to .200" at a time depending on the size of the chamber and how deep you are with the reamer. Some really over bore cases like a .30-.378 you can be as low as .050" per pass when you get close to the end. With a chamber flushing set up you don't have to pull the reamer out until you are finished. I usually spend a good deal of time dialing a barrel in. 30 to 45 minutes usually if I'm feeling super anal and it's being difficult. I've had some take closer to an hour. I look for no more than .0002 to .0003 variance when I'm being super anal and .0005 when I'm not. After that the chamber end can be done in as quick as a hour to as long as 3-4 hours if you don't rough the chamber and it's a overbore case. Crowning is much quicker short of the dialing in part. Typically I take 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 hours to do most of my metal work on magnum cases.

I've dialed in barrels many different ways and had good results from them all. I do all of my chambering through the spindle bore or headstock of the lathe. I've dialed the inside of the bore on the machined side and the outside of the barrel on the back side of the lathe. I've dialed in the bore on both sides and I've dialed in a section of the bore to run true where the reamer will finish the chamber. The back side of the barrel whips around a bit the last way because no bore is perfectly straight. I've seen the back side out as low as .007" and as high as .135" (this one must have been like a jump rope inside before it was cut off). The blank was supposedly turned on centers at 27" and it was cut to 22". I can't imagine how far off it would be around 14 to 15". In theory doing it the last way makes the most sense because it aligns the chamber/bullet perfectly to the rifling at the point it makes contact. I don't shoot benchrest to compare the group sizes between the different methods. I'd bet there is more variance in the barrels potential than the chambering methods. From what I've seen 95+% of the accuracy potential comes from the barrel. When I first started doing my own gunsmithing we held the reamer rigid and had some oversized chambers. We still had many barrels shoot bugholes. My buddy has chambered some in a 3 jaw chuck (not dialing them in basically) and has had them shoot sub 1/2" groups. I personally haven't seen any accuracy increase by truing a action either. IMO it's not really needed unless your competing or want to go all out on a one and only build.
 
wildgene":zwn4uq15 said:
...how come nobody mentioned "cherise"???
Click to expand...

Colors used to describe fishing lures are acceptable.

Cop car (half black/half white)
Michael Jackson (black with silver flakes)
Michael Jackson with hemmorhoids (same with a bright red tail)
 
Maybe I could talk Rod into a tie die colour scheme that way I could just about hit all the colours mentioned :mrgreen:
I wondering if they can co cerakote the same way:)!!

Blessings,
Dan
 
Hi Dan, I must have missed the post with what brand you are using for an action with this project? Any idea of what optics she will wear? I am looking forward to what your thoughts are on the finished rifle. I have heard good things about those guys from RMR. Hope it will exceed your expectations and don't forget the photos of the finished product.
 
STW, this now my second build from RMR:)
This going to be a 280AI with 40 degree shoulders, I am using a PacNor #4 SS match barrel 26". The action is a Defiance (long) with a Timney trigger, a H &S detachable clip system in a Manners stock :). Oh yeah did I mention it is coming as lefty :mrgreen:
On top I am placing a Leica 4.5-15 X 42 with Talley rings:)!!!

After a gentle break in my 35 Whelen is a very accurate rifle & shoot like a dream:) I would highly recommend them!!!

Blessings,
Dan
 
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