How much torque on Remington 700?

[salmonchaser]

I'm playing with the torque settings on my 338 jarrett a little. The rifle has been glass and pillar bedded, otherwise traditional Remington walnut. Bottom metal is original equipment. Unfortunately my science has been poor in that my record keeping has been a little shoddy and I've tried to speed the process by testing a new load and torque settings at the same time. :?
I've run it from a low of 15 inch pounds up to 40.
What I know for certain is if the rear screw is too loose the rifle will not shoot well.
Thoughts on how much force on pillar bedded wood and what order to tighten the screws.

 

[JD338]

Good question SC.
My 280AI is pillar bedded and she is torqued down pretty good. I have no idea where it is but she shoots light out.

JD338

 

[HeathSexton]

Mine is not pillar bedded just glassed and the factory tupperware stock with aluminum trigger guard, mine torqued @ 50 in/lbs front and rear. I torque to 25 front, then 25 rear, then 50 front, then 50 rear. If your's has a middle screw I just tighten mine down to where it just snugs up.

 

[NWBlacktail]

My rem 700 on a B&C stock is torqued to 55 inch lbs front and back. I know it's not the same as yours, but that's what I'm doing.

 

[Rol_P]

Last summer I called the Remington Tech's to inquire about trigger adjustment and screw torque and was told that 30 - 35 inch pounds was all that was needed on a factory run Rem 700 CDL walnut stock. It has not been pillar or glass bedded.

I did free float the barrel, which had fore end pressure on the left side and that seemed to help the accuracy some.

 

[jimbires]

my rifles with pillars I torque to 65 in lbs . I can't say I have an exact sequence , I just snug at each one a couple times then torque them .

 

[SJB358]

I would say if you have pillars in there, you are only going to get it so tight anyhow, with metal on metal all the way thru, you can't really compress the pillars with an inch Lb torque wrench. I would think anywhere in the 50-65" Lb range would get it done just fine. I would also put a little bit of blue loctite or maybe some wax on the screws to keep them from loosening up. I have to watch my rifles with pillars or aluminum bedding blocks, as those don't have the compression against them wood would have. Just my experience with them though.

 

[salmonchaser]

Good idea on the locktight. This fall, getting ready for elk hunting I fire formed a bunch of cases. The rounds are accurate and given they are loaded a little slower shoot poa./poi. At 100 yards. So I shoot standing or kneeling. I wasn't shooting particularly well so decided to check my zero one more time. Good Lord what a mess. I checked all the screws on my rings and bases, cleaned the rifle and fired another lousy group. I was packing up to go home when I realized the rear screw had just about dropped out of the stock. I usually don't take that barrel and action out of the stock but once a year, after elk season. A little locktight will be easy enough to deal with.
I'm going to crank them down to about 60 and see where I'm at.

 

[jimbires]

Scotty has a good idea on a dab of loctite . I'd say blue for this application , maybe purple . I don't remember mine ever coming loose , so I must check them more often than I think I do . I could remember reading a thread about torque specs , so I dug around and found it .

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/ ... ons-29756/

 

[SJB358]

Scotty has a good idea on a dab of loctite . I'd say blue for this application , maybe purple . I don't remember mine ever coming loose , so I must check them more often than I think I do . I could remember reading a thread about torque specs , so I dug around and found it .

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/ ... ons-29756/

I learned my lesson when my 338 started coming loose and belting the tar outta the B&C stock it was in. Tightened it back down and it has been happy ever since.

 

[CatskillCrawler]

I've been torquing M700 actions to 45"/lbs for thirty years. Tighten back and front together till you feel light tension then torque back fastener to full torque. Finish with final torquing of front fastener.

 

[Elkman]

Great info guys. I will be tearing down one of mine this week and will use tis info to put it Back together. :grin: