July 10th range trip (pics)

[wisconsinteacher]

As far as the mag box, it is not moving because it is held in by the trigger guard/middle screw and the front of the drop plate. (near the hinge)

Should I be able to move it when things are torqued down?

 

[OU812]

Not trying to be a smart a$$ but don't you play with action screws when you are really fine tuning a rifle. To me, a 1/16 or 1/8 turn on a screw is not going to take a 4" group down to 1". Again, not trying to come across as a snot, just trying to learn. (and not set the rifle on the curb with a for free sign on it)

Suit yourself. It's a cheap and easy thing to try. Some rifles are more susceptible to action screw torque than others. It's hard to imagine how .005 difference in bullet seating depth change can affect a group size but it sure can.

 

[OU812]

As far as the mag box, it is not moving because it is held in by the trigger guard/middle screw and the front of the drop plate. (near the hinge)

Should I be able to move it when things are torqued down?

I am no Winchester expert but I would think the mag box should be free floating. I know Remington and Weatherby they are.

 

[SJB358]

The Winchester mag is held in there by the front of the trigger guard. It shouldn't be gorilla tight though. That's why I mentioned 15" lbs on that screw.

Bills correct, your action screws will make every bit the difference that seating depth will and more more. I'd likely try them at 30, 40 and finally 50" lbs with any of your loads before diving after something else. I know certain rifles prefer other bullets but I haven't seen many that wouldn't shoot them all decently. Yours has everything it needs to be a good shooter so it's worth a shot. It'll only take nine rounds to see if there is a change. Chances are I there is a change going from 30-50 there may be something binding.

Great question though. My Pre64 338 shot like rats butt at 15" lbs but as I tightened through them up to 45" it came together.

 

[OU812]

Thanks Scotty for clarification on the mag box. I'm no winchester guy and knew you would know the answer.

 

[wisconsinteacher]

I am more than willing to give it a try.

I will go 30-15-30/40-20-40/50-30-50 Should I try the 225 Interlock or 210 PT for this test?

 

[OU812]

I am more than willing to give it a try.

I will go 30-15-30/40-20-40/50-30-50 Should I try the 225 Interlock or 210 PT for this test?

The 225 interlocks are cheaper and it seems they both are throwing the same sized groups so IF the action screw torque setting does make a difference you should see it quickly.

 

[SJB358]

I am more than willing to give it a try.

I will go 30-15-30/40-20-40/50-30-50 Should I try the 225 Interlock or 210 PT for this test?

I'd leave the center at 15". Just my opinion though WT. Work the two outer screws. That center screw just needs to be snug.

I'd use whatever bullet you have the most of or that was overall the most accurate for you.

 

[SJB358]

Sorry Bill. Stepped on you!

 

[OU812]

Sorry Bill. Stepped on you!

No you didn't Scotty. You know these Winchesters I don't. I'm just tossing out ideas from what I've experienced in frustration and what the final fix was.

 

[wisconsinteacher]

Would it be worth trying a 225 or 250gr AccuBond? If so, does anyone have a few for sale? Both the PT and interlock are flat based, maybe that would change things by going boat tail.

 

[elkeater2]

A couple more thoughts to add to the list:

There is a chance that the throat is misaligned with the rifling. Once a guy has tried almost everything without any real improvement, this becomes a greater possibility. The easy way to check it is with a chamber cast. Cerro-safe is the most popular product for this purpose, and making a cast is pretty easy.
There is no easy fix if you find that it is misaligned, especially without a total rebore.

The other thing is the bedding, and not being critical. I bedded several rifles before I learned from my mistakes, and imagine that's true for most. I do know that no amount of diddling with screw tensions will help unless the bedding is stress free. The receiver rails and tang can be touching more on one side than the other. Something else to look at, anyway.

Let us know if you get it working!
EE2

 

[elkeater2]

Thought of something else. I developed a dislike for the scope bases with dovetail in front and windage screws in back. Reason being on the Leupy version at least, if you don't have everything just right when you tighten them down the sharp interior corner on the big-headed screw can move metal on the base, and actually peen up the edge of the socket it's suppose to fit in. I was seeing daylight between the ring flat and the base where there shouldn't have been any.

People have also gotten those base screws mixed up, as there are short ones and long ones. A long one can be used where a slightly shorter one belongs. Ask me how I know :shock: :shock:
IF a guy does that, on some Model 70's, the short hole is still drilled and tapped deep enough that you can think you're getting things tight. These things usually don't get mixed up until a guy has a pile of base screws from previous installations, and gets them mixed up.
I'll sleep on it now, sure want to see you get fixed up!
EE2

 

[Ryan46]

Since everyone else has covered most everything to check I suggest you try checking your headspace. I noticed you mentioned that you were using virgin brass and assume you fl sized them. Check the dimensions of your once fired brass against the dimensions of your loaded virgin ammo. This may tell you if your headspace is too great. I like mine to be around .002in. And I have no chambering problems with that amount of hs.

Happy Shooting
Ryan46

 

[HTDUCK]

Thought of something else. I developed a dislike for the scope bases with dovetail in front and windage screws in back. EE2

Guilty !!!!
When I started with my 7STW it would shoot 2 within an inch and the third one would be on the next sheet of paper.
I have a Leupy one piece base and rings on it. The front one is a dovetail type.
After much frustration Creed and I pulled the scope off of it one day at the range and laid his Wheeler scope ring alignment gauge in the rings.
Seems the idiot that installed them ( me ) didn't have the things properly aligned front to rear.
We got them aligned, lapped them and remounted the scope.
After that it shot lights out !

 

[Dr. Vette]

The 338wm is a Winchester M70 XRT Sporter that is bedded, and has had good trigger. I have used a Leupold VX-II, Minox and Leupold VX-III on the rifle. I have used 225 Hornady Interlocks and 210 PT so far out of the rifle. Currently, I am using virgin Win brass with Win LRMag primers. I have used H4350 and RL19 along with some Win 760 all with the same 3-4" groups. Once or twice I have shot a 1.5-2" group but have never been able to replete it. I am using RCBS dies to size and seat the bullets and measure OAL with a comparator.

I know what you're going through. Sounds like me with Dad's 7mm Wby a few years ago. 160 ABs, 168 Bergers and a Speer wouldn't shoot well at all. Used H-1000 followed by RL-22 as well as different primers, and no luck. Swapped to Barnes 150 TTSX bullets and it shoots bugholes. We just had it out again on Wednesday and still shooting very well. I'll make a new batch of bullets for our upcoming bear hunt and it will take some game this fall with no issues.

 

[lhsako]

All these pointers are valid and worth trying w/ you're .338. load some IMR4350 and 200 accubonds. mine shoots 5 shot , 1" groups w/ this load ! beyond that u may need to try some pressure in the for end. I have a 7MM-08 that responded tremendously to a few pounds upward pressure. PM me if u need help w/ this.....good luck

 

[elkeater2]

Been gone moose watching for a while. :grin: :grin: Wondering how this worked out? Is there another thread going?
EE2