Mauser feeding issues

[BretN]

I think I figured out what is causing the feeding issues in my new Mauser. It's a sporterized Mauser and the German stampings are all scrubbed off. However, when I heated it up to cast The Chamber I could see some faint markings. It's a bnz 45, or late War Mauser.

Please look at the attached picture it appears that the receiver was not properly milled on one side and all I need to do is file down the high spot. But I don't want to do that until I know for sure it's not supposed to be that way, as this is my first Mauser. Please look at the picture and let me know what you think. This specific issue I'm having is that rounds on the left side of the magazine box don't want to stay in the magazine as they are being pushed out which can cause a jam. I believe the excess metal on the receiver is causing this.

 

[cloverleaf]

I don't know....but my mauser is not that rough. I read a piece in a recent edition of Rifle Magazine where a writer bought a recent version of a mauser. He described the feed rails as "rough as railroad tracks" and proceeded to take some stones to them to smooth them out. Its hard to tell how it should work. I honestly haven't got mine figured out. Cases don't get behind the extractor as reliably as they should. Extractor has been replaced but will not hop over the rim if the case is missed, so then I need to knock the case out with a rod and start over. I aint no expert..... CL

 

[BretN]

Sorry for the bad cell pic. The one side is milled fine, as compared to pics I've seen online. The other has excess metal like a small ramp still there. I'm guessing that when it was still an 8mm round, it might have been ok, but the extra length of the 06 is the problem. The extra metal /ramp is pushing the cases on the left out and they won't stay in place. It feeds perfectly from the right side.

I've ordered a new follower to see if that might fix it, but I'm guessing I will have to carefully file or stone down that excess metal. Thanks for looking at it

 

[BretN]

Well, after a couple hours with a file and fine sandpaper, I milled the rough side of the action down. It now feeds from both sides every time. I also installed a Timney trigger and Wolf 22# firing pin spring. The firing pin spring has made the bolt lift heavy, but some gunslick grease on the ramp seems to help. Now I just need to refinish the stock. Took it out yesterday for a long walk in the woods. 60 degree days in February in Minnesota don't happen often, you have to take advantage of them. Here's a pic.

 

[PJGunner]

"Extractor has been replaced but will not hop over the rim if the case is missed, so then I need to knock the case out with a rod and start over. I aint no expert..... CL"

CL. The next time that happens, press very hard on the side of the extractor while trying to chamber the round. Easiest way would be to sit down with he rifle in your lap. Press the extractor with the left hand and try chambering the round with the right hand. Of course, if you're left handed, reverse the procedure. I've hd to do is more than once when some newbie to masers messed up and no rod handy.
Paul B.

 

[AK7AN]

Man thats a pretty Mauser. Was just wondering what caliber it is. Glad you could get out and enjoy the nice Feb weather. Been really nice here in Utah. Going to the Conservation Expo tomorrow and plan on getting some shooting in on the Monday holiday.
Take care
Ed

 

[BretN]

Bought it at the local Cabela's and it was not stamped, so I got a good price on it. First project was casting the chamber. I was pretty sure it was a 30-06, but I couldn't get any of my resized brass to chamber. So I took it to a smith that confirmed it is a 30-06 with a fairly tight chamber. New brass and factory shells chamber just fine

 

[cloverleaf]

Bret- that is a nice looking Mauser. Glad to here you got the feeding problem solved.
PJ- thanks for the tip. I will give it a try. the replaced extractor is pretty stout (AKA Winshester Model 70 full length) don't know I I will be strong enough but will give it a try. Current extractor was replaced and is longer and heavier that the original. Will likely still work if I can bring enough pressure to bear. Thanks CL

 

[BretN]

Thanks for the compliments on the gun. I like it. Ever since my brother has a Mauser Sporter I've wanted one. I got it as a project, but I like it well enough that all I intend to do is fix the problems and refinish the stock. I may bed the action as well. I like the Williams receiver sight and shoot it well enough at 50 and 100 yards that it will serve me well.

 

[nvbroncrider]

Make sure you do a hardness test on that a lot of the 44-45 K98's weren't properly heat treated and a lot of them were rushed out before they were "complete".

 

[Polaris]

BNZ is manufactured in Steyr, Austria. These are not known for the production problems associated with other manufacturers in the late war period. Finish was crude and features were abbreviated or omitted, but they did not roll out "last ditch" rifles as some of the German manufacturers closer to the front lines and allied bombers did.

What are your plans for refinishing? Also if you're going to stick with the receiver sights, you will gain little from glass bedding. Glad you got it running, love those old mausers!

 

[BretN]

Thanks for the info on the BNZ guns. In the little research I did, I knew they were late war made in Steyr by slave labor. It seems like a good quality receiver, just one of the bottom feed rails wasn't milled right. It probably never fed that second shot well or jammed. Perhaps that wasn't a mistake? But it's in good enough shape that it may not have seen battle duty.

I fixed the heavy bolt lift too. Needed to inlet the stock just a little more for the trigger as it was pinching a little when the rear screw was tightened. Good point about the bedding. I plan to use a low luster tung oil on it. I've done 2-3 guns with Tru-oil, but I'd rather have a hand rubbed oil finish like what's on there now.

 

[Polaris]

I've used a product called Howard Feed N Wax (off the shelf at Menards) on my wife's riflestock and have since used it on some that I previously oil finished. Adds a bit of protection without getting too glossy or fake feeling. Brings out the grain a bit better than just the rubbed oil I think. It's beeswax based so it is compatable with oil finished wood. I buffed mine down with burlap for a low-glare satin. Really repels water and resists scratching.

It's also possible that your receiver never left the factory as a complete rifle. Many, many K98 receivers complete, barreled, partially complete or stripped were sold commercially to the gunsmithing trade or moved around and reassembled with misc spare parts as military aid or in the illicit arms trade in the murky post war period and ended up on the US surplus market at bargain prices.

I had an Israeli K98 (7.62 Nato IMI rebarrel) with an FN post war receiver, Steyr late war laminated stock, imperial Oberndorf floorplate Gew 98 modified for K98 action, Waffenamt marked trigger group from BNZ, and CE (occupied BRNO) marked bolt group. I believe most of the Israeli guns were sold to Guatemala at some point, so that gun pretty much made it around the world before ending up at an auction in Central MN.

 

[BretN]

Well, I got a bit more done on the Mauser. Touched up the bluing with some Brownells oxpho-blue. First time using it and it worked well I think. Got the old narrow swivels off only to discover the stud hole is smaller than current swivels, but I had a pair that are plastic with screws that just fit. Then I installed an uncle Mike's recoil pad I had laying around. Ground it to fit, not perfect, but looks and feels good. Probably refinish the stock next weekend. Here's a pic of the pad.

This gun has the front swivel stud mounted on the barrel. Does it make any sense to free float the barrel? I cleaned up the barrel channel, but stopped till I shoot it more.

 

[BretN]

The Mauser is more or less done for now. I probably should have fully stripped the stock, but after ironing out some of the dings I just sanded a little and applied tung oil. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.

The chamber in addition to being a little tight has an abrupt throat, so I have to seat bullets fairly deep, but I never intended to run full speed loads in this gun.

 

[Guy Miner]

Really liking this project Mauser of yours!

Does it feed & fire factory .30-06 cartridges well? I often run a box of factory ammo through a rifle that's new to me, to get a baseline from which to proceed.

Guy

 

[BretN]

I had to buy a bag of new brass to reload for it, as resized brass wouldn't fit the chamber. Factory new ammo works too, but I suspect it may be partially engaging the lands. I'll have to buy another box, black marker the bullet and see. I will have to trim the brass frequently as bolt closed with resistance when I tried to use 1x fired brass and a blackened bullet to find OAL. It doesn't do that with new brass, cutting the neck to insert a bullet and check OAL.

Does it make any sense to have the throat reamed? Does it make sense to free float the forearm when the swivel stud is on the barrel? Or perhaps it makes more sense to skim bed it, so it is consistent?

It's been a fun project and I've learned to do some things I hadn't tried before.

 

[truck driver]

I had to buy a bag of new brass to reload for it, as resized brass wouldn't fit the chamber. Factory new ammo works too, but I suspect it may be partially engaging the lands. I'll have to buy another box, black marker the bullet and see. I will have to trim the brass frequently as bolt closed with resistance when I tried to use 1x fired brass and a blackened bullet to find OAL. It doesn't do that with new brass, cutting the neck to insert a bullet and check OAL.

Does it make any sense to have the throat reamed? Does it make sense to free float the forearm when the swivel stud is on the barrel? Or perhaps it makes more sense to skim bed it, so it is consistent?

It's been a fun project and I've learned to do some things I hadn't tried before.

Shoot it and see how it does. If it is all over the place then bedding would be an option.
If it still has the Mauser bottom metal it is already semi pillar bedded since the bottom metal has pillars cast into it or should unless the smith that customized it cut them off.
The only time the barrel sling lug comes into play is when or if you sling up for support and then you can change the POI with pressure on the barrel.

 

[SJB358]

Looks like a beautiful rifle. Cool write up.

I'd probably make sure the tang is relieved and the recoil lug is bedded tight. Full length bedding isn't a horrible idea to weatherproof everything either.

 

[BretN]

Thanks for the comments guys. I need to buy another box of factory rounds to take with the reloads I've got ready and see how it does. I think I'll shoot it for a bit before I make anymore changes.

It does still have the military bottom metal, but I can't quite tell if the receiver bottoms out on the pillar. I will use some play dough on the pillar and screw it down to see. The inletting on the stock was pretty rough, so it could be I need bring down the wood at the barrel and receiver junction. Eventually, I will add an extended floor plate release button to make unloading easier. Thanks again. Bret