Recoil control on the bench

Long story, but wife forbids use of dryer sheets for the intended purpose (she actually has a reaction to them, believe it or not), so it'll be new ones. :lol:
 
tddeangelo":1qm3lplz said:
So, I took some rifles to the range over the past weekend, and among them was my 35 Whelen. The cliff notes version on the Whelen, for those who don't know/remember:

-Was an M70 Classic in 30-06, rebored late last summer by JES to 35 Whelen.

-Placed in a McMillan stock that came with factory-installed pillars.

-Due to fast approaching hunting seasons and McMillan's suggestion that I shoot it before bedding it, I did not bed the rifle to the stock.

-In this state, the rifle turned in 2-2.5" groups at 200 yards. I hunted with it and killed two bucks with it last year.

I bedded the stock to the rifle recently, and this past weekend's range trip was my first shooting with it in the bedded stock. It took about 10 shots till it seemed to "settle in". Then I started getting groups of about 4 to 5 inches at 200. The more I shot, the more I saw improvement, but it wound up with a 4-shot group where two shots almost touched (shot 1 and shot 4) and two shots an inch apart from each other (shots 2 and 3), but those two "pairs" had about 3-4 inches of space between them.

The rifle literally flies up off the rest during recoil, though, and I'm thinking recoil is causing at least some of this. I know I was sloppy with it when I first shot it, for sure, but I felt pretty confident with it right till the shot would break. Then I felt like the rifle was just all over the place.

Normally, I reach out to the fore arm and (from below) hold on to the stock. This just didn't seem to be working for me, however, during the last range session.

Any suggestions on managing harder kickers off a bench? I believe I will pick up a PAST pad to help distribute the recoil around my torso a bit more so that I don't get shoved around as much, but I really think the groups look like they do because the rifle flops like a fish out of water when the shot breaks.

Ideas/suggestions?

First of all get a very good rifle rest, not the ones that hold recoil...... Cadwell sells a very good one with the qualities of their large brothers-benchrest rests- if you handload start low to build confidence..... shoot shoot.... good shooting practice, control trigger break and one important part of all is in your head... concéntrate and a good breathing technique.... those PAST shields work for big bore calibers I use them from 375hh up....., for me there s no other way to control recoil than shooting.
 
skidmark":1rdeb8yf said:
Yep...dryer sheets...old ones work best
helps the stock slide back smoothly.
And yer gun smells fresh too. :mrgreen:

Yep, used dryer sheet or a smooth towel at the range. The dryer sheet works also well for reducing the static on plastic powder funnels/hoppers/ containers and the like at the load bench also.
YMMV
 
BD1":i906er64 said:
skidmark":i906er64 said:
Yep...dryer sheets...old ones work best
helps the stock slide back smoothly.
And yer gun smells fresh too. :mrgreen:

Yep, used dryer sheet or a smooth towel at the range. The dryer sheet works also well for reducing the static on plastic powder funnels/hoppers/ containers and the like at the load bench also.
YMMV

I use a dryer sheet in the tumbler as well to collect carbon as well. Sucks it up pretty decent in my experience.
 
Over the years I have learned that I never hold down the rifle in any manner. No hand on top, no grasp of the forearm, no grabbing the sling. Be sure that the front sling stud won't hit your front rest/bag when you shoot, as even that may mess things up.

Having talked with and watched people who have shot a long more often and a lot further than I have, there is no way you can consistently hold/grab the front of a rifle from shot to shot, and I believe it in my own experience. My right hand is holding on to the pistol grip - though not too firmly as a death grip will alter the rifle's sit and recoil too - and my left hand is squeezing the sandbag (or 2 or 3) that I have under the heel of the rifle. The squeeze helps me fine tune the rifle's angle, and I'm usually leaning into the rifle just a bit, which helps stabilize it and avoid having the rifle slam back. Generally this is what is called the free recoil method, and for me it works fine. I can maintain shot-to-shot and rifle-to-rifle consistency with no problems.

Does the rifle jump? Sure, anything from our 7mm Wby ULW on up jumps, but that's the way it goes. I know it will happen and it doesn't bother me at all.
 
It isn't the jump that is hurting it, it is the inconsistency of it. When you get up into the shorter, heavier recoil, if I don't manage it somewhat consistency will go down. Plus, it doesn't hurt to control the forend, your going to do it while hunting via a sling and your hand anyhow, might as well sort it out early on.
 
That's the issue right there....the inconsistency.

I don't want to give folks the impression that I am past my tolerance for recoil, nor that I am flinching. I'm feeling good, clean shots when it breaks. Well, most of the time...we all shank one here and there on any rifle...but I'm not noticing it happening more or less with this rifle than any of my others. A dud primer confirmed it when I broke the shot and nothing moved.

I'm not looking to reduce felt recoil. I'm ok with managing from a physiological/comfort perspective. It's the shot to shot consistency that has me vexed.
 
SJB358":2ww9w66a said:
Plus, it doesn't hurt to control the forend, your going to do it while hunting via a sling and your hand anyhow, might as well sort it out early on.

Actually I don't. I will rest it on something, even my hand if needed, but I'm not holding it unless it's an offhand shot or similar.

Again, just my technique. YMMV.
 
Good range session tonight. The Whelen and 300WSM both shot a hair over MOA at 200 yards. The Whelen gave me two good groups...one at 1.8" and one at 2.5". Recoil control was MUCH improved. My follow through sometimes wasn't the best, which probably explains some of the variance. I folded up a beach towel to pad the rest, then I positioned my rear bag differently so I could get a good and consistent hold on the wrist, and I laid my left hand over the scope as Scotty does. I feel much better that the rifle is producing two groups that average right around MOA at 200. Then I shot at a painted steel gong at 300 yards. I estimated hold over to hit a 4- to 5-inch center spot on the gong. My shot pinwheeled the center paint spot. I was very pleased with the Whelen tonight. I think it's settled in, and a bit more trigger time with it, I'll shoot it pretty well again.

The 300WSM did well, and I'm pretty pleased with that. That one always is a "jumper," too, so a consistent group at 200 makes me feel pretty confident with it.

I also got my old man's problem rifle to 1.5-1.6MOA at 200. That's progress for that one. Hopefully it'll pull in to MOA here quickly and he will feel better....I know I will!
 
I shoot everything up to and including 300 H&H at the bench without holing the fore end in place. I think the jump is more consistent than the variation created by trying to hold things in place. When hunting I try to get a good rest or shoot off shooting sticks which don't require me to hold the fore end and shoot off hand as a last resort.
 
Dr. Vette":33tgjmif said:
SJB358":33tgjmif said:
Plus, it doesn't hurt to control the forend, your going to do it while hunting via a sling and your hand anyhow, might as well sort it out early on.

Actually I don't. I will rest it on something, even my hand if needed, but I'm not holding it unless it's an offhand shot or similar.

Again, just my technique. YMMV.

The Vettes right in my book.
Put that left hand on the rear bag and squeeze it off.
 
Not arguing, but left hand on the scope and a softer rest and my groups went from 5"+ to 2" at 200 yards.....
 
tddeangelo":3j3jcv34 said:
Not arguing, but left hand on the scope and a softer rest and my groups went from 5"+ to 2" at 200 yards.....

..."if it works"...

...I usually use the left hand to squeeze the rear bag, don't matter. I do try to set the rifle "up" enough that I can get a good cheek weld & I'm not laying on the bench, so the recoil is coming straight back @ me through my whole upper body, & my upper body can flex w/ the recoil...

 
Bull's Bag?

I need to order one. My cast iron front tripod has served its purpose for almost 10 years. Time to move on from it. :)
 
tddeangelo":2ozum1f7 said:
Bull's Bag?

I need to order one. My cast iron front tripod has served its purpose for almost 10 years. Time to move on from it. :)

...yeah, that one's about 15yrs. old so I think they're worth the price tag, I had other bags that didn't last a couple seasons. Used properly the bags will reduce muzzle flip & recoil, & are a lot more convenient & versatile than a front rest...

 
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