RogueRiver
Handloader
- Mar 13, 2005
- 430
- 1
what do U guys recommend for barrel break in. What do U do?
rifle break in
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rick smith
Handloader
- Apr 6, 2005
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Shoot one round and clean. If no copper build-up, shoot two, clean, if no copper go three shots. Then jump to six, two three shot groups. If you aren't getting copper build-up and it is cleaning easy I will shoot 15-21 and clean. After that shoot until accuracy starts to drop off. Then clean.
With new barrels, I will clean them throughly prior to the first range trip. Most custom barrels are lapped and don't seem to require much break-in. Most factory barrels require more cleaning. That is one reason I clean them prior to their first trip to the range. Get an idea how smooth they are/aren't. I have given them a good scrubbing with J&B prior to the first range session.Rick.
With new barrels, I will clean them throughly prior to the first range trip. Most custom barrels are lapped and don't seem to require much break-in. Most factory barrels require more cleaning. That is one reason I clean them prior to their first trip to the range. Get an idea how smooth they are/aren't. I have given them a good scrubbing with J&B prior to the first range session.Rick.
cloverleaf
Handloader
- Sep 10, 2006
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I suspect there will be a few replys to your post. Opinions on this subject are like belly buttons, and I'm not gonna give you one. here's a link to another post with some info I found on the subject.
http://noslerreloading.com/phpBB2/viewt ... highlight=
I take that back, I will give you one piece of advice. Use a bore guide and clean from the breech. Good luck CL
http://noslerreloading.com/phpBB2/viewt ... highlight=
I take that back, I will give you one piece of advice. Use a bore guide and clean from the breech. Good luck CL
rick smith
Handloader
- Apr 6, 2005
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cloverleaf, interesting read on your other post. What are your thoughts on barrels that copper foul so bad with one shot that the first 15-20 patches are totally blue. I have seen one custom barrel that was that way and a lot of factory barrels. Scrubbing with J&B to try to smooth the barrels just doesn't get the job done in many cases.
I have been on and off the moly wagon, off longer than on. But it is my understanding that putting moly on metal permanently requires an impact process, that is why one has to use the steel balls in a tumbler or multible bullets in the process to beat against each other. I have dropped bullets into the moly container and can wipe off the moly with my fingers. So how is coating the barrel with moly powder as stated in your post going to seal or smooth the barrel after lapping? You ruined a barrel with moly but what about all the barrels that it hasn't ruined? Not trying to start a war, I quit with moly years ago and some of what is in your post agrees with articles that have been published in Precision Shooting. I am not an engineer and don't pretend to have all the answers but like many loaders just have a quest for information.Rick.
I have been on and off the moly wagon, off longer than on. But it is my understanding that putting moly on metal permanently requires an impact process, that is why one has to use the steel balls in a tumbler or multible bullets in the process to beat against each other. I have dropped bullets into the moly container and can wipe off the moly with my fingers. So how is coating the barrel with moly powder as stated in your post going to seal or smooth the barrel after lapping? You ruined a barrel with moly but what about all the barrels that it hasn't ruined? Not trying to start a war, I quit with moly years ago and some of what is in your post agrees with articles that have been published in Precision Shooting. I am not an engineer and don't pretend to have all the answers but like many loaders just have a quest for information.Rick.
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RogueRiver
Handloader
- Mar 13, 2005
- 430
- 1
So I figure when I get the new rifle, I will take it to the range after I clean it, fire a few rounds, if it looks dirty I will run a patch through it. If not fire a few more rounds until its sited in and take it home and clean it. If I read the break in dstuff right that should work. I have bought new pistols and revolvers, but all the rifles I own I have bought used.
rick smith
Handloader
- Apr 6, 2005
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If they are used, they are already broken-in assuming they have been shot.Rick.
Charlie-NY
Handloader
- Mar 11, 2005
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For what it's worth, I noticed this today while reading the Hart Barrel web site. It was in the FAQ section.
.... What do you recommend for barrel break-in?
"We do not believe that a break in procedure is required with our barrels. If you follow our normal cleaning procedure, outlined in this brochure, you should not have any problems with your new rifle. "
Not withstanding the above::: A new custom barrel cost quite a bit of money today. Shooting 20-40 rounds to break it in isn't a big deal. I usually start my load development at the same time anyway. I break-in all of my barrels, factory or match grade.
I think it would be much more beneficial to break-in a factory barrel which will always have a rougher bore than a custom, hand lapped barrel. Most shooters will never burn out the barrel on their hunting rifles. Why not take the time to break it in when new. It sure can't hurt.
As to moly - I've been using it for many years in custom match barrels and have yet to experience a single problem. I use it in high volume varmint rifles only. I see no reason to bother with moly bullets in my biggame rifles.
.... What do you recommend for barrel break-in?
"We do not believe that a break in procedure is required with our barrels. If you follow our normal cleaning procedure, outlined in this brochure, you should not have any problems with your new rifle. "
Not withstanding the above::: A new custom barrel cost quite a bit of money today. Shooting 20-40 rounds to break it in isn't a big deal. I usually start my load development at the same time anyway. I break-in all of my barrels, factory or match grade.
I think it would be much more beneficial to break-in a factory barrel which will always have a rougher bore than a custom, hand lapped barrel. Most shooters will never burn out the barrel on their hunting rifles. Why not take the time to break it in when new. It sure can't hurt.
As to moly - I've been using it for many years in custom match barrels and have yet to experience a single problem. I use it in high volume varmint rifles only. I see no reason to bother with moly bullets in my biggame rifles.
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RogueRiver
Handloader
- Mar 13, 2005
- 430
- 1
thats why I was wondering about breaking in. I ment to say all my other rifles I got used so I didn't worry about it.
cloverleaf
Handloader
- Sep 10, 2006
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Rick and other posters since- I really dont have an opinion on Moly. Ive shot a few 85 grain CT bullets through my rifle. Got most of a box left- havent decided if I will shoot them up or not.
As an aside, IMHO Hart would not recomend a barrel break in procedure as for $300 plus for a barrel I think they might even hand lap the barrel befpre it gets to you thereby eliminating the need for "break in".
I dont know if I agree with the info in the link as to a barrel needing some copper to be burnished in the bore to smooth things out. What we are not accounting for is where in the barrel the copper builds up? On the lands or in the grooves? I would think where and how much makes a difference.
By feel alone, I think I can tell that my barrel has a "rough patch" about 2/3rds of the way down the bore. Is that good or bad I really dont know? I know after 20-30 rounds my rifle benefits from a good cleaning and that it takes up to six shots to get my groups to settle down once I get it really clean (or so I think). When my rifle is "happy" and I do my part its a genuine sub MOA rifle with the right load. Lots of fooling around but its all Ive got and all I can afford at the moment. And its 2 for 2 on game.
As to your copper fouling. What do you use to remove copper? seems like minimal sooting shouldnt give that much copper build-up, but who knows? I use "Wipe out" to remove copper fouling and follow up with a couple patches of Hoppe's #9 when I think its clean just becuase Dad used it. This will usually turn the patches black for a few from my suupposedly clean bore. After that I run a patch through with CLP Break Free on it.
This only adds to the debate. I clean when my accuracy falls off or I am going to put it away for a while.
I read some where from a big time gun writer that had supposedly kept records of accuracy when he shot new rifles which was all the time that there was no statistical improvement in accuracy when a break in procedure was followed. Maybe he would know, sure shoots more new rifles than me. I do think that the folks who scrub up and own with a jointed aluminum rod will never know what there effort was really worth. A slugged, lapped bore maybe, but not what I can do with my meager equiptment and limited patience.
Guess for the most part I agree w/ Charlie. CL
As an aside, IMHO Hart would not recomend a barrel break in procedure as for $300 plus for a barrel I think they might even hand lap the barrel befpre it gets to you thereby eliminating the need for "break in".
I dont know if I agree with the info in the link as to a barrel needing some copper to be burnished in the bore to smooth things out. What we are not accounting for is where in the barrel the copper builds up? On the lands or in the grooves? I would think where and how much makes a difference.
By feel alone, I think I can tell that my barrel has a "rough patch" about 2/3rds of the way down the bore. Is that good or bad I really dont know? I know after 20-30 rounds my rifle benefits from a good cleaning and that it takes up to six shots to get my groups to settle down once I get it really clean (or so I think). When my rifle is "happy" and I do my part its a genuine sub MOA rifle with the right load. Lots of fooling around but its all Ive got and all I can afford at the moment. And its 2 for 2 on game.
As to your copper fouling. What do you use to remove copper? seems like minimal sooting shouldnt give that much copper build-up, but who knows? I use "Wipe out" to remove copper fouling and follow up with a couple patches of Hoppe's #9 when I think its clean just becuase Dad used it. This will usually turn the patches black for a few from my suupposedly clean bore. After that I run a patch through with CLP Break Free on it.
This only adds to the debate. I clean when my accuracy falls off or I am going to put it away for a while.
I read some where from a big time gun writer that had supposedly kept records of accuracy when he shot new rifles which was all the time that there was no statistical improvement in accuracy when a break in procedure was followed. Maybe he would know, sure shoots more new rifles than me. I do think that the folks who scrub up and own with a jointed aluminum rod will never know what there effort was really worth. A slugged, lapped bore maybe, but not what I can do with my meager equiptment and limited patience.
Guess for the most part I agree w/ Charlie. CL
rick smith
Handloader
- Apr 6, 2005
- 1,249
- 0
Tried wipe-out, several rifles with different amounts of fouling, and wasn't happy with the results. I use Montana Extreme for most cleaning followed by a light coat of oil. Will use Sweets if the copper fouling is bad followed by Montana and oil. Still use a bronze brush during cleaning. J&B is reserved for the bad foulers. Always use a bore brush and Dewey rods. I push patches wet with Montana until the black quites. Three passes with a brush. More patches with Montana. Five passes with the brush, more patches with Montana. Somewhere during this I will see a reduction in black, then I will let the barrel sit, wet with Montana, for 10-15 min. Wet patch looking for blue. When the blue is very faint, dry the barrel and put a light coat of oil, Stand the rifle muzzle down on a cloth and let it stay for an hour or so.Rick.
Charlie-NY
Handloader
- Mar 11, 2005
- 1,442
- 918
cloverleaf":1v4q3r04 said:
I just put Hart's statement up there as a differing opinion. Most custom match barrel manufacturers DO recommend some kind of break-in. Hart and McMillan come to mind as two who have always spoken against it.
A quality match barrel "installed, chambered, finished, etc" runs about $600-$750. If you want it fluted add $150-$200 more. I carefully break-in these barrels even if it just makes me FEEL like I'm doing the right thing. :lol:
As with every new rifle I have purchased it went something like this.
New gun and newly scoped, first sight in using say a dozen bullets this usualy takes 30 minutes or so no hurry here. Then shoot the rest of the box for groups. I only use guliding metal bullets no moly ever. Clean bore with Hoppes #9 powder solvent till patches are clean. Load up about fifty work up loads and shoot them. Now I should have a good load determinded. Clean as before. And finally sight in using say a dozen of my new hand loads.
By now I figure with say 80 rounds its broke in. Cleaning with hoppe's #9 powder solvent and gun oil with no excessive cleaning nessary. Never using any non-gliuding metal bullets and never ever had any issues. I don't shot benchrest only hunt.
Working in engineering and having accese to metalurgists and vibration labs has help my understanding as well VERY GOOD READ THANKS.
New gun and newly scoped, first sight in using say a dozen bullets this usualy takes 30 minutes or so no hurry here. Then shoot the rest of the box for groups. I only use guliding metal bullets no moly ever. Clean bore with Hoppes #9 powder solvent till patches are clean. Load up about fifty work up loads and shoot them. Now I should have a good load determinded. Clean as before. And finally sight in using say a dozen of my new hand loads.
By now I figure with say 80 rounds its broke in. Cleaning with hoppe's #9 powder solvent and gun oil with no excessive cleaning nessary. Never using any non-gliuding metal bullets and never ever had any issues. I don't shot benchrest only hunt.
Working in engineering and having accese to metalurgists and vibration labs has help my understanding as well VERY GOOD READ THANKS.
