Rifle stock finishes

C.Smith · Aug 23, 2007

I refinished my rifle stock a month or so ago using Brownells LinSpeed oil. I put a coat on, let it dry and uysed sandpaper to take it to the stock as directed. I did this two more times using steel wool instead of sandpaper. So I only have three coats and a nice flat looking stock that I like.

My concern is, if I have enough on there to pretect the gun during winter hunts? Or should I put more coats on and leave that last coat on without using the steel wool? Any help would be great thanks.

Corey

YoteSmoker · Aug 23, 2007

I've not used the finish you have but have done some work just like you with formby' tung oil and also tru-oil. Steel wooling and giving time between coats.

It is important to seal your finish and wood to prevent damage from water to your finish and you don't want it to penetrate the wood especially the barrel channel or it can swell the stock.

Get a bottle of birchwood casey gun wax and a t shirt. Apply a thin coat with your fingers and rub in following the grains. It can also be applied the the gun metal and actually helps protect it as well. Allow to dry then pollish it with the t-shirt. The more times you repeat this process of coating drying and pollishing, the shinier it will get and really bring out the grains. You can't really over do it and just stop before it gets too shiney for your liking. P.S. the main ingredient is carnuba.

C.Smith · Aug 24, 2007

That's sound like a good idea. I'm scared to death of having it swell up on me (i'd buy a synthetic stock if I could). I will have to go get some today and give it a try.

Thank you.

Corey

JD338 · Aug 25, 2007

I used Formby's Tung Oil on my COntender grip and forend and it came out perfect. You can always use a light coat of past wax and buff it up but you will have to strip off the wax if you ever want to add another coat of oil.
I just left mine with the tung oil on so I can add additional coats if needed.

JD338

flashhole · Sep 21, 2007

I'm getting a lot of mileage out of this picture.

I refinished the stock on this CZ. The factory finished was stripped with two coats of ZipStrip in real time using a brass brush to clean out the checkering, then sanded with fine emory paper. I went for the in-the-wood finish and hand rubbed 13 coats of tung oil varnish with three of the coats being wet sanded to fill in pores in the wood. It took 7 days doing 2 coats per day. Then two coats of paste wax.