Set screw

[kraky]

I lock em lightly and put a matching mark on the die thread and lockring. A small move of the ring one way or another is ez to see when adjusting.
I also use a shellholder that is shaved so the die does not hit the shellholder...I believe this makes adjustments more accurate and adds less stress to the lever mechanism.

 

[Hegland]

Add another Hornady lock-ring user.

Add two. I bought one of the Hornady rings just to try, and immediately cleaned out the RCBS set-screw rings. Simple and effective.

 

[tjen]

It is a MUST for consistent reloading.

I have all mine locked down and nothing gets changed. I the case of partial sizing I just use the shim I need under the loc-ring. As far as changing bullets thats nothing to do with the loc-ring on the die its the seating depth adjustment.

I started with hornady dies for my 35rem/358win. Picked up the LEE collet die set for my 22-hornet and replaced the non-loc-ring with the hornady ring. Next was two reddington die sets and learned about the lead shot under the set screw which I like best. Have two RCBS die sets that were given to me for my 270win hornet fro a friend that quit reloading. I think I will get the new Hunter class reddington die sets for my 35whelen and 270win sell the RCBS sets. I like the mico adjust seating dies.

 

[taylorce1]

I replaced all mine with Hornady lock rings and have them locked down.

Me too

Same here.

Make me a +4!

Actually I do both the lead shot under the set screw or the Hornady style locking rings when I find them cheap. I do the specific dies for one rifle and bullet as well, especially in my LR set up and varmint rigs where I demand better accuracy than my hunting rifles. Sometimes I'll pick up a spare seating die or two.

 

[FOTIS]

I lock them.

 

[300WSM]

I can't lock them. I change them often for use on different rifles.

I do however have some cheat cases to get me up and running just as quick as if I did have them locked.

 

[RiverRider]

It has been my practice to have only one firearm per cartridge, with only a couple of exceptions. I lock all the adjustments on my dies---all Redding for rifle, all RCBS for handgun, and all used on a Co-Ax press, because I HATE fiddling with adjustments. That's one reason I love my Trim-Pro case trimming setup so much...I use Trim Gauges and I can be trimming .223 Remington one minute, and be trimming .25-06 the next, all without adjusting a thing (and no chamfering whatsoever for most rifle cartridges! LOVE it!). But back to dies: I tend to stick with one load and one bullet per firearm also. I don't want to fiddle with ANY adjustments. I don't want to be adjusting my scopes for different loads, either!

 

[300WSM]

That's one reason I love my Trim-Pro case trimming setup so much...I use Trim Gauges and I can be trimming .223 Remington one minute, and be trimming .25-06 the next, all without adjusting a thing (and no chamfering whatsoever for most rifle cartridges! LOVE it!).

Explain please.....

I trim all different cases and I have to adjust and change pilots. I do use a trimmed case I keep in the die set box so the adjustment is made easy but there is still adjustment/changing of the pilot etc to be done.

 

[C.Smith]

I lock mine down, but I do like the Hornady style. I have never heard of putting lead shot under it, I really like that idea.

Corey

 

[300WSM]

I lock mine down, but I do like the Hornady style. I have never heard of putting lead shot under it, I really like that idea.

Corey

Corey the lead shot idea works nice but is only needed if your set screw is made of steel. If you are still working with a brass set screw then it isn't needed as brass is plenty soft and won't harm the thread on the die.

 

[C.Smith]

Yup all mine are steel, and they have always frustrated me but this may be the solution I needed.

Corey