Sighting In ?

wisconsinteacher

Handloader
Dec 2, 2010
1,980
293
Last weekend when I shot my .338 with a new Leupold 3x9, I was hitting 12" rigth and 15" low. Would you adjust by moving the crosshairs or is this such a big move, that I need to adjust the rear ring on the rifle. Also, this group was shot at 50 yards, so how many clicks would it take?
 
I would probably remount the scope.

But assuming an adjustment of 1/4 inch per click at 100 yards, it would be 1/8 of an inch at 50. 96 clicks left, 120 clicks up.
 
Did you bore sight this first and are hitting this far out?

By you asking about the rear ring being moved I would say you probably hadn't bore sighted it as that would be one of steps in getting the scope to line up with the bore sighting if it was in fact that far out when the bore sight was placed in the barrel.

How far to move with the scope adjustment at 50?

However many clicks you have at 100 multiply that times two. (4 clicks for one inch at 100 yds is 8 clicks at 50)


If you did bore sight this and its hitting this far out at 50....I would look at something else being wrong.
 
I would first center the windage and elevation adjustments on the scope. Also check both rings to determine they are a matched set. You didn't mention the make of your rifle. When using Leupold type mounts that have a windage adjustment, anything over a couple inches and I will adjust the mount to get closer. I want to stay in the center of the scope's optical field as much as possible.Rick.
 
WT,
When I bought a Leupold Scope the other year the instructions told me to place the scope up against a mirror and center the cross hairs with the Scope adjustments first. I then mounted the scope, bore sighted it and shot at 100yds. It put me on paper at least. Then refined it from there.

If I were you I would start out from where you are by bore sighting using the windage adjustment on the scope base. Then proceed with refining using the scope adjustments.

I have had some challenges at times on the range, found out my windage screws became loose over time really messing things up. One quick method I found useful at the range was to place a target at 50-yds. Place the gun on a solid rest, remove the bolt. Center the bore on the bulls-eye, then look in the scope to see where your sights are.

Don
 
rick smith":2t9yk0cc said:
I would first center the windage and elevation adjustments on the scope. Also check both rings to determine they are a matched set. You didn't mention the make of your rifle. When using Leupold type mounts that have a windage adjustment, anything over a couple inches and I will adjust the mount to get closer. I want to stay in the center of the scope's optical field as much as possible.Rick.

+1
What kind of rings and mounts are you using?

JD338
 
The rifle is a Win model 70 with Leopuld 2 piece bases and rings. The rear base has screws to adjust windage. I did not bore sight it because I don't have one.

How do you center the elevation and windage of a scope?
 
wisconsinteacher":3fexgnr8 said:
The rifle is a Win model 70 with Leopuld 2 piece bases and rings. The rear base has screws to adjust windage. I did not bore sight it because I don't have one.

How do you center the elevation and windage of a scope?

Make sure the adjustments are centered. If you have 100 click adjustment, move it to 50. Remove the bolt and put the rifle in sand bags. Look through the bore at 50 yds and then carefully adjust the cross hairs to the target. Major changes, shuch as wht you have explained should be done with the windage scres on the rear base prior to adjusting the scope.

JD338
 
wisconsinteacher":avovz3if said:
The rifle is a Win model 70 with Leopuld 2 piece bases and rings. The rear base has screws to adjust windage. I did not bore sight it because I don't have one.

How do you center the elevation and windage of a scope?
With a mirror against the objective, look through the scope, you'll see the reticle and its reflection, turn the knobs until the reflection is directly behind the reticle. then re-sight in using the rear base screws to get it as close as possible.
also lapping the rings may help the verticle.
RR
 
Okay, I just put the rifle on some bags with the bolt out and found the neighbors porch light in the center of the bore. I looked through the scope and it was low and to the right. I then moved the mount screws and got the windage close. After that was set, I move the scope down 38 clicks and the + is right on the porch light and when I looked down the bore, it was on the same light. I hope I am closer than last weekend. Thanks for the help guys. I will post results when the weather warms up.
 
Never used the mirror method. Most Leupold 3x9s have about five complete turns of elevation/windage. I turn the knob to bottom it out, easily, then turn back 2.5 turns. Or turn it all the way one way then turn it back and count the revolutions. Return half that distance.Rick.
 
This is a brand new scope, so why wouldn't it be centered? It was at 0 for both elevation and windage. I got if from the factory so no one touched it in a store before I got it.
 
rick smith":2fqcxd9o said:
Never used the mirror method. Most Leupold 3x9s have about five complete turns of elevation/windage. I turn the knob to bottom it out, easily, then turn back 2.5 turns. Or turn it all the way one way then turn it back and count the revolutions. Return half that distance.Rick.
I once had a rifle broke down for rechambering, when I got it home, I centered the reticule using the mirror method, went 20 moa down for my 20 moa base, went up 2 moa for my scope height, went 2.75 moa up for my 300 yard zero. fired the first shot at a target at 300 yards. POI was within 2" of POA at 300 yards.
RR
 
RR

Good point! I forgot about that method.

A few years back I had a problem and spoke with Leupold. The tech had me do just that.

JD338
 
Maybe I should take the 38 clicks back and see if the scope is centered. If it is, I would still have to move it back to get my elevation so I guess it might not matter in this case???
 
Wisconsin,

Get a bore sight. You will say to yourself after you get one "what did I ever do without having one of these" :lol:

A bore sight is something you can get inexpensive today and even with a cheap one it isn't even just getting by. The cheaper ones do work perfectly fine. Even if you had to buy an expensive bore sight what is the benefit? You are still going to actually shoot it and fine tune. The cheap ones work fine and between all the box stores and of course Ebay and gun broker you can get one cheap.
If space and organization are important to you get the cheapest laser bore sight. That way you have no worries with bulk and multiple arbors.

Also how far away is the porch light? If you are about fifteen feet and looking through the bore then the scope should be a little above it. The further away you go the scope will get close to being even with the bore picture...and eventually even further away the scope will be lower than the bore picture.
 
:| More oops.

I didn't realize I was using the edit function incorrectly. Good thing I wasn't mounting a scope. :mrgreen:
 
Windage adjustable rear mounts were designed in the bowels of hell. They're perfect for torquing a scope tube and ruining scope performance.

If you must use a windage-adjustable mount, center the adjustments on the scope. Lay the scope in the rings without the top halves of the rings installed. Boresight to adjust the windage by using the windage screws on the rear mount, then make sure the front ring is aligned with the rear. Make fine adjustments to the front ring alignment and the rear windage to get the bottom halves of the rings set up properly, then lap the rings. Once this is done mount the scope and the top halves off the rings and confirm boresighting, adjusting as necessary. If you do this right, you won't be torquing the crap out of the tube and you shouldn't have to adjust your scope out of optical center.

I HATE windage-adjustable rear mounts. They're weak and they suck.
 
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