Starting reloading

[ajvigs]

Morning All,

What do I need to start reloading? I have plans on a 280AI TGR, and have been told I can fire-form the brass with 280Rem loads (which will also work double as I can use regular 280 ammo until I get everything together). I have seen a RCBS Rock Chucker kit for $299 out of Cabelas, but what else will I need to start?

Thanks for all the help,

A.J.

 

[Guest]

What you'll need, in a basic sense, is a press, dies, shellholder, scale, calipers, and case trimmer, plus powder, primers, bullets, and brass, but I'm betting you knew about the last four. The RockChucker kit is a good one, though in some instances more expensive than other options. Take a look at several retailers, as it frequently pays to catch the best deal from any of several sites. I also encourage you to look at the Lyman Crusher kits. They make a kit that is comparable in price to the RCBS kit, but it includes, additionally, a case trimmer, which the RCBS kit does not.

Don't overlook, as well, that you'll need some sort of bench at which to work. That can add another $100-200 to the price of entry. You may have a bench already that you can use, though.

Beyond that, there are a ton of things you can get, but I'd start with the basics and move from there. Sites to shop are:

midsouthshooterssupply.com
midwayusa.com
natchezss.com
wideners.com
swfa.com
basspro.com

There are undoubtedly others, but that'll at least get you started. Also, keep an eye out on shootersproshop.com for brass and bullets. That's where Nosler puts all their cosmetic blems. I've had great results with their blem bullets.

 

[JD338]

WM gave sound advice.
Pick up RL 22 for your 280AI.

JD338

 

[onesonek]

+1 on both above

 

[DrMike]

dub has given sound advice, as has JD338. The wants of any hand loader rapidly exceeds his needs. You will undoubtedly add to the basic kit you begin with, and some of what you add will prove to be worthless. Nevertheless, you will have to try it. Having said that, you will be embarking on a journey that gives great pleasure to any dedicated rifle crank throughout the entirety of life.

 

[ajvigs]

I looked at the Lyman crusher kit, and like what I saw. But, I could not find a Lyman 280AI die set...do they have one?

 

[DrMike]

Dies provided from other manufacturers will work in the Lyman Crusher press. If I could, I'd direct your attention to other kits as providing greater satisfaction in the long run.

 

[Guest]

Doc, you're not a fan of the Lyman kit? I don't own one, but it always appeared that Lyman and RCBS were on a par as far as quality. If you know otherwise, please educate me. I hate giving out bad advice.

 

[DrMike]

dubyam,

All the presses work, and each one can certainly turn out good ammunition. I am biased, admittedly; the basis for my bias has more to do with the customer service of RCBS (and Redding and Forster) than with a superior product. Eventually, every piece of equipment will wear out or have an issue if it is used enough. My experience with RCBS (and Redding and Forster) was positive. My experience with Lyman and Lee have been less positive. I've sold quite a few Lyman kits, and I don't know that anyone ever felt cheated by owning them. I'm only giving my personal bias. I believe the contents of the RCBS kit compared to the contents of the Lyman Crusher kit will provide a better hand loading experience. Again, these are personal biases.

 

[Guest]

Fair enough. I understand your issues. In fact, I don't use Redding dies or equipment because I had a QC issue and the service aspect was unsatisfactory. I know tons of folks who swear by Redding, but so far, their service and QC leave me cold, and I've stopped even considering them. To each his own, for sure.

 

[DrMike]

In fairness, I've had mixed service from Redding. I had one negative experience and one positive experience. The positive arose after the first person I communicated with quit and I was lost in the shuffle. After six months, I contacted them again, and with apologies, the representative I spoke with made my issue right.

 

[meatmachineman]

Being the tightwad I am, I'd direct you as far from retailers as I can. Scour the local classifieds. There tons of people, like yourself, who think about getting into reloading. Of those, some actually make the leap and go to ____________ (enter retailer of your choice) and buy all the stuff they need to get going. Then, of those that actually bought, some will lose interest and have a near new reloading setup for sale... sometimes on the cheap. That's exactly what the last person I got into reloading did... he found a Lyman turret press and just about everything that one would need to get started for $175, if memory serves. And it was obvious that the equipment had exceptionally low miles. Fortunately, he seems to be hooked, but just in case he did lose interest, he could sell the set up and possibly be money ahead.

Another thing that I believe anyone should do prior to buying equipment or at least prior to touching the equipment if already purchased is.....
1) Get a loading manual
2) Read it
3) Read it AGAIN

Don't freak out by the size of the manual either... you just need to read the front section of the book a couple of times. The majority of a manual is load data, Most people seem to have their favorite or pet manual and the one that I recommend to beginners usually gets no love. But I have found for the beginner, Lee's Modern Reloading is hard to beat for an easy to understand tutorial on the ins and outs of reloading. Just be warned that it is one big advertisement for Lee products. Speaking of Lee... Lee makes perfectly serviceable equipment and I own a fair amount of their stuff which can and has turned out plenty of sub-MOA rounds (Assuming the rifle and shooter are up to the task, of course :wink: ). That said, I also own a lot of equipment from others. Given a choice with money being of an endless supply, I doubt I'd own much Lee equipment, but if Lee is what winds up fitting the wallet, don't lose heart, you'll still likely be churning out good ammo.

 

[ajvigs]

Thanks for all the strong recommendations and advice. The Lyman still draws my attention as it comes with a case trimmer, for about the same price of the RCBS kit.

Now is it better to buy just a kit of components like the Lyman or RCBS, or put one together yourself? And with scales, are the electronic better then the counterbalance?

 

[DrMike]

Modern electronic scales can be very good, provided you shield the electric cords and always take care to tare the scales. For fool-proof operation, balance beam scales are unbeatable. By purchasing what you want from the outset, you will avoid picking up quite so much stuff that is seldom used.

 

[Guest]

I bought a smaller kit and then supplemented with the powder measure I wanted and a few other odds and ends. But, I can tell you it's generally more expensive that way.

As for the scale question, I'd have no qualms starting out with an electronic, but I've always been of the mind that I'd like to have a beam scale as a backup, just to be sure. Beam scales work off of gravity and are seldom any more than out of zero. They are a great check for electronic scales. I've never bought an electronic, though it's on my to-do list. Doc is right about shielding the electrical cords, as well as using them on a circuit without other devices that might interfere.

 

[6mm Remington]

Watch that Shooter's Pro Shop site of Nosler's! Dang they have some great buys. Before you know it you will be ordering 400 bullets for this rifle and 200 for that one. I know because it's happened to me. You have a sickness now for which there is no cure..................except to load some more shells! :mrgreen: Someone said it elsewhere or at least something similar, we may get several renditions (all true by the way) before this is said and done...............take a hot bath, a couple aspirin, and call Dr. Mike in the morning! It's Doctors orders, that's all I know.

 

[Guest]

Oh, and just for the record, so you're not misled, you need to know one key thing. Plenty of people get into reloading to save money. That's a great idea. But, here's the fundamental truth, so don't say you weren't warned:

If you handload, you won't actually save any money. You'll just shoot a lot more.

 

[DrMike]

Oh, and just for the record, so you're not misled, you need to know one key thing. Plenty of people get into reloading to save money. That's a great idea. But, here's the fundamental truth, so don't say you weren't warned:

If you handload, you won't actually save any money. You'll just shoot a lot more.

Too true; but what fun you'll have in the process, and you will become a better shot.

 

[sask boy]

Doc, I am not sure of the better shot as I have now blown over 2 Moose with my 35 not sure why.
I just seem to want to hold just over the back when there is any type of distance. I have never had this happen before. I got something in my head that the 35 has not reach. I think that I am going to have to spend some time at the range :mrgreen: trying to correct this.

Blessings,
Dan

 

[DrMike]

Doc, I am not sure of the better shot as I have now blown over 2 Moose with my 35 not sure why. I just seem to want to hold just over the back when there is any type of distance. I have never had this happen before. I got something in my head that the 35 has not reach. I think that I am going to have to spend some time at the range :mrgreen: trying to correct this.

And that requires you to spend more time at the bench to provide the ammunition that will be needed in order to make you a better shot. The Whelen does have reach. We have become enamoured of whiz-bang cartridges that have super velocities. We became enamoured of these fast projectiles because the experts told us that we could not take game cleanly unless we had such velocities. There are a lot of old guys that are still shooting rifles chambered in 375 H&H, 30-06, 280 and 270 that know moose and elk still die at reasonable distances when hit with a projectile from these rifles. The primary reason people were trained to "hold over" was because they didn't zero their rifle for a 200 yard or 250 yard zero; they zeroed at 100 yards and then compensated for "estimated" distance (usually wildly off) by "holding over." A standard cartridge zeroed at 200 to 250 yards has a point-blank range of at least 300 yards, which is quite a bit farther than most shots are ever required. Those few instances where the range is actually beyond 350 yards allow ample time to consider and compensate in most instances. Obviously, I'm not biased in this matter.