Switching Bullets

[tim629]

Hopefully this helps others too, I hate constantly asking the newbie questions from you guys:


How many of you will start to develop a load with 1 brand of non-premium bullet, then tweak that load into your premium bullets?


I know the manufacturers will say "don't deviate from published data" and I'm new to reloading so I want to be careful about it, but is it safe to look in my 3 manuals (hornady, speer, nosler) choose a similar bullet construction (200 grain tipped boat-tail) then compare starting loads with similar powders across the 3 books to determine a starting point for the bullet/powder combo that isn't listed in a particular manual

IMR4320 is listed in Nosler & Speer for 338-06 in the 200 grain, but not in hornady's 338-06 200 grain, but Reloader 15 is listed in all 3. in the Nosler & Speer manuals RL-15 is 1.5grains more than IMR 4320 at the same velocities. So is it acceptable to take a 200 grain hornady use a load of IMR 4320 at 1.5grains under their RL-15 start load and work up from there?

Next it's my understanding that for the ackley's you start with a load closer to Max on a published load, if my previous thoughts are acceptable would you start with a grain or 2 below max on an unpublished load just to be safe

 

[Guest]

I'd be awful careful about that sort of extrapolation until you have a lot of experience handloading, and understand how your rifles behave, as well as how various powders behave in a variety of situations.

Now, that said, if you have a load in two manuals for a 200gr bullet, but you want to load a Hornady bullet instead, as long as the bullets are the same style, and not some oddball comparison like a round nose, flat based bullet and a tipped boat-tail, you should be alright to start with the lowest starting charge listed in your other two manuals. Work up carefully, in 2% increments of charge weight, and inspect each case carefully after firing, looking for signs of pressure issues (sticky bolt lift, primer cratering, soot marks around the primer, etc.). Use a chronograph, as velocity is one of the most direct indicators of pressure, too. Be careful and be safe.

 

[DrMike]

Dubyam has given you wise advice. Bear in mind that the various reloading data are assembled as guides. They can describe a safe load given for the conditions under which the manufacturer tested. Powder lots vary in burn rate, primer brisance varies between differing primers, bearing surfaces differ on various bullets, chamber dimensions vary from test system to test system, etc. Thus, you are responsible to start your own testing at a safe minimum and work up, verifying that the load is safe in your firing system. You do this by observing for signs of excessive pressure and checking velocities. Having said all that, you can test for a different bullet of the same mass, understanding that the bearing surface may introduce some nasty surprises if you make improper assumptions. Again, start at a safe minimum charge and work up to verify that the load you want to produce is safe for your firing system.

 

[runtohunt]

The only thing that I would add is that I would call the bullet manufacture and ask them for the recipe for there bullet with the powder that you would like to use. Personally, I have talked with technicians from Nosler, Barnes, and Swift bullets. They have always been helpful. Only once I have I been turned away. Barnes does not develop loads for the 280 AI :?

 

[tim629]

appears as though I was over-thinking it?

sent hornady an e-mail, they are hit/miss so far on their help

similar bullet shape & same weight as the noslers: tipped with a boat tail

boat tail instead of a flat base as is the 200 grain sierra, but nosler's load starts 4 grains lower so start with their minimum load in the ackley and work up? or maybe drop another couple of grains or will this get too low especially with the improved version

I know with it being an ackley it's going to ultimately be "unpublished" loads that are in the 338-06AI so going to be lots of shoot a round, check the case & primer, shoot a couple more of that same mix and then go up 2% as needed untill I reach a point of good groups or pressure signs (going up within reason, possibly quitting before a pressure sign and tweaking elsewhere) I will have a bit of support/help in the load development from my brother-in-law but I figure many of you have been shooting the wildcats longer than either of us have been alive.


Would be a lot easier with more powder on the market but trying to make do with what I have and what I have found access to

 

[Oldtrader3]

I have been loading for 50 years and still have all of my fingers and toes, so I must be doing something right after all! I have probably 10 different reloading manuals on my bench at any given time. Anytime that I am loading for a new rifle, especially with a cartridge that I am not experienced with I back off of max loads and build an incremental load ladder up to higher loads. This gives me safety and data, along with my chronograph, to support my final load data at a safe level.

 

[tim629]

Oldtrader/others- if deviating between the book's specific mix as will probably be my case do you go below the published starting load to start your ladder

just trying to use what is available, understand the do's and don'ts that the manuals won't tell you, and keep my body in one piece

thanks for the help so far everyone

 

[tim629]

still interested in the answers....

but just ordered 100 338 200 grain accubonds from shooters pro shop for the SAME price i paid for the 100 hornady's

i will keep the hornadys and use them once i'm more comfortable handloading

 

[SJB358]

still interested in the answers....

but just ordered 100 338 200 grain accubonds from shooters pro shop for the SAME price i paid for the 100 hornady's

i will keep the hornadys and use them once i'm more comfortable handloading

I think you did well! With a good load and those 200 AB's, you'll probably never worry about another load for your 338.

 

[Oldtrader3]

Tim, you should not go below published figures with slow powders anyhow. So because of the detonation potential with slow powders, I never do. Usually the most accurate loads are towards the top end of the ladder anyhow.