Time to do some scope mounting (on hold)

wisconsinteacher

Handloader
Dec 2, 2010
1,976
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I got the 3-15 Minox today but the Ruger rings on the rifle are too low so I will order new ones and mount that on the 25-06. My Ruger 30-06 will be getting the Leupold 3-9 that was on the .338 and the .338 is now going to have a Minox 3-9 now that hunting season is over and I have time to do it. I was hoping to shoot tomorrow, but it is going to be raining again like it is today. When it is all over, my rifles will all be updated with new glass. I hope to give the pocket book a little break. 4 new scopes in the past year, ouch.
 
When mounting scopes without a torque wrench, I plan on using blue lock tite and tightening them down until they are hand tight. I have read that I do not need to go crazy with the rings but to make sure the mounts are very tight. Am I right on this?
 
Lap the scope rings and you are all set.

JD338
 
The optimal setting for ring screw torque is 25 inch pounds. Get a preset torque wrench for doing this and the issue is solved.
 
If I remember right, Minox had a little instruction sheet that recommended you torque the scope rings at 15 to 18 lbs. I may be off on this I have to find the paper.
Russ
 
Well I am on stand still until I get the info and tools needed. Is there a way to lap the rings without buying the kit?
 
I torque all Leupold rings to 15-18" lbs. never had an issue, from my 35 Whelen to slug guns.

Lapping them requires a lapping bar and some lapping compound. Good luck WT. sounds like some great upgrades.
 
I do not lap rings any more, I just use TPS rings, end of issue.

My preset torque wrench is a Warne and I doubt seriously that it is set for more than 20 inch pounds of torque.
 
wisconsinteacher":mvax2ywx said:
I know this is cheap of me, but is there a way to make a lap bar?

1" steel bar would do the same thing. Sand it smooth and then use the lapping compound.
 
Generally I don't lap rings anymore. There are often ways to get around it, especially with the Ruger rings.

You will need a 1 inch bar for this, but an old scope might work too.

Mount the ring bases on the rifle where you want them. You will have to check this against your new scope, possibly even trial fit it.
Install the 1 inch bar instead of the scope, and tighten ring screws to 25 inch pounds. Yes, having a FAT wrench or similar is essential.
Now tighten the base rings to the rifle to 30 inch pounds(per Ruger). Go a bit heavier if you wish, but not much.
Remove upper half or rings, and install scope. Level it as you prefer and tighten it.

By using the steel 1 inch bar you can generally get the rings aligned - especially in a system like the Ruger - without lapping. The key is to tighten the bar into the rings before you tighten the rings to the bases. Obviously with some systems this will not work.
 
I just buy higher quality bases and rings. I do not have to lap these rings and the scope falls into the rings with no force required to seat them which indicates correct alignment. Since I quit using Burris' and Leupold's cheaper screw adjusted bases and turn in rings, I have had many fewer gouges and scratches on my scope tubes (just a thought).

If you insist on lapping rings, I would strongly suggest using an aluminum round because of two factors. The aluminum bars are more accurately round (.998 inches) and truer (straighter) than hot rolled steel is, and secondly, they are lighter and easier to feel the sanding progress, plus they are less likely to damage the rings when sanding.
 
Well, I am putting the breaks on my project for now. After thinking it over and looking at the value I have in the 4 scopes that need to be mounted, I am going to save up and get the Wheeler Kit with the wrench and the 1" and 30mm lapping bars. I will need it in the future so I am going to save up and get it after Christmas. I know it will be worth the wait to have them on the rifle with the correct inch pounds and lapped rings.
 
If you're on hold anyway, I've changed to using the Burris Signature rings on most of my rifles. I never have to lap again. :wink: I can also adjust for poor fitting bases, crooked barrels, etc. By far my favorite so far.

Now if someone actually made a quality dual dovetail base for the Mark V Weatherby I'd be ecstatic.
 
Patrick, those TPS rings that I sent you with the Mark V Weatherby are heck for strong and guaranteed to be +/-.0002 dimensional accuracy for bore alignment, position and TIR.

I am not sure that you can do any better than that.
 
Oldtrader3":2xd0qwbh said:
Patrick, those TPS rings that I sent you with the Mark V Weatherby are heck for strong and guaranteed to be +/-.0002 dimensional accuracy for bore alignment, position and TIR.

I am not sure that you can do any better than that.

Yes, I know. The rifle's just been in the safe since the hunt, though my new scope for it just arrived. It's for my other Wby that I want the dual dovetails. The Leupold DD bases are machines so far off it isn't even funny.
 
The DD bases are off and that is why everybody uses the Burris plastic insert rings. Those rings are fine as long as you are not shooting a heavy banger. I guess that I am just from the old school and want line to line fit up and alignment TIR. As long as TPS keeps it up, I will use their rings. I just ordered another pair of TPS low rings to have in stock as spares for any scopes at or below 44mm objective lenses. I also have a set of high TPS rings in stock if I ever need them.
 
Yes, were it not for the Burris rings I would not have gotten my scope straight at all. I wish that Burris made DD bases, but they've really cut back on their options since they sold out.

I use the Burris Signature rings on everything I can, as it's nice to be able to add or subtract elevation just by changing the insert. I have not yet had any issues with scope movement at all, even on a Weatherby 340. In addition I find them to be very well made. Right now I have them on several rifles from 243 to 340 Wby (my other one). Generally if I find a suitable way to use them I do.
 
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