Trigger Control

[gbflyer]

I've spent the better part of my shooting time trying to get little groups, off the bench, not caring really much about where I hit on the target. As such I've developed the habit of squeezing, hoping the hammer fall startles me. As I read more about target shooting, I seem to gather that a more deliberate "pull" is the norm, especially off - hand or with a moving target.

What do you all do?

 

[ozarkpugs]

I've spent the better part of my shooting time trying to get little groups, off the bench, not caring really much about where I hit on the target. As such I've developed the habit of squeezing, hoping the hammer fall startles me. As I read more about target shooting, I seem to gather that a more deliberate "pull" is the norm, especially off - hand or with a moving target.

What do you all do?

Squeeze fast . On targets I often squeeze too slow and pause squeezing to breathe then continue but on game and with a makeshift or less than ideal rest I start squeeze as soon as sights / cross hairs are fixing to line up and keep squeezing until they settle back from recoil.

Sent from my Moto G Play using Tapatalk

 

[gbflyer]

I've spent the better part of my shooting time trying to get little groups, off the bench, not caring really much about where I hit on the target. As such I've developed the habit of squeezing, hoping the hammer fall startles me. As I read more about target shooting, I seem to gather that a more deliberate "pull" is the norm, especially off - hand or with a moving target.

What do you all do?

Squeeze fast . On targets I often squeeze too slow and pause squeezing to breathe then continue but on game and with a makeshift or less than ideal rest I start squeeze as soon as sights / cross hairs are fixing to line up and keep squeezing until they settle back from recoil.

Sent from my Moto G Play using Tapatalk

Thanks!

 

[Whitesheep]

I use the surprise technique and it works for me when I do it correctly. This is especially difficult when shooting offhand. Silhouette competition has really helped my trigger pull because you are pulling through while the sights are doing their figure 8 thing. On a bench, prone or even with some sort of rest it is much easier since you can keep the crosshairs (mostly) stable.

Not sure pulling fast is the way to go, but maybe that depends on your definition of "fast." I know from my silhouette work that jumping the trigger as it passes where you think you want the crosshairs to be doesn't work. In fact it pretty much causes a flinch like movement in the rifle which 99% of the time results in a miss.

By the way, I am a terrible silhouette shooter, but I keep doing it because it has improved my skills in other supported positions. See attached 200 yard prone bipod target.

 

[ozarkpugs]

The figure 8 works for me too. Sometimes I notice the cross hairs wobble horizontally other times more vertical and if I fight it it gets worse but if I go with the flow it settles down and my trigger magically breaks at the right time. Dry firing helps me a lot. Another thing I have learned is use only as much magnification as needed .

I use the surprise technique and it works for me when I do it correctly. This is especially difficult when shooting offhand. Silhouette competition has really helped my trigger pull because you are pulling through while the sights are doing their figure 8 thing. On a bench, prone or even with some sort of rest it is much easier since you can keep the crosshairs (mostly) stable.

Not sure pulling fast is the way to go, but maybe that depends on your definition of "fast." I know from my silhouette work that jumping the trigger as it passes where you think you want the crosshairs to be doesn't work. In fact it pretty much causes a flinch like movement in the rifle which 99% of the time results in a miss.

By the way, I am a terrible silhouette shooter, but I keep doing it because it has improved my skills in other supported positions. See attached 200 yard prone bipod target.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk

 

[jimbires]

for strictly target shooting , I like a very light trigger with no creep . this way when things are lined up it only takes a touch on the trigger to go off . I keep lightening the triggers on my long range guns . for normal hunting , I'm comfortable with a 3 or 3.5 lbs pull with some creep .these rifles seem to have a lot of trigger travel when target shooting.

 

[TackDriver284]

I like to put pressure on the back of the stock with my shoulder pushing forward while the rifle is snugged in the V of the bullbag with my left three fingers pushing the stock in the crook of the bullbag, while shooting on the bench and my thumb is on top of the stock behind the receiver putting little pressure downward and pulling the trigger slowwwly straight back until the hammer falls without blinking. Breathing is also a factor I pay attention to. I like my Jewell triggers at one pound break if I can remember my gunsmith setting them for me when he built my rifles. I just like them light.

When hunting, I just use a small bullbag and a solid armrest out of my deer blind. Deer / hog targets are so big that its nothing compared to shooting small off the bench at the range.

 

[Blkram]

To be honest, I have never really liked the idea of my trigger break being a surprise. This is just my opinion...
I like knowing exactly when the trigger is going to break and the rifle fires.
With the poorer quality triggers on my lever action rifles, such as my BLR, which has the worst trigger of all my rifles, I know exactly how the thatcreep feels and when and where it is going to break under steady pressure. In the field, I feel this helps, as there have been many times when on my target animal, as I am taking up that trigger slack to shoot, the animal has moved and I have backed off the shot and waited for the next opportunity. Especially handy when in the thick brush.
On my rifles with good triggers, set at three pounds, I still know when that trigger is going to break from the steady pressure of the squeeze. I like three pounds, as I wear light gloves when hunting (usually due to cooler weather conditions) and can still feel the trigger and my pressure on it. I have tried 2 1/2 pounds, at the range, but found I cannot feel the pressure on the trigger with light gloves on, enough to know when it is going to break, and the rifle fires before I am ready. Had triggers reset to 3 pounds. Without gloves, at the bench, it is not a problem,but all my rifles are for hunting, not benchwork.
I also do not take a long time on my trigger squeeze. Once the crosshairs have settled (as much as I can get them to, as I shake like a leaf in a high wind, most of the time! LOL), I squeeze steadily, and fairly quickly, until the trigger breaks, keeping those sights or crosshairs on the target until after the bullet reaches the target.

I guess the main point is the quality practice with your rifles and their individual triggers, until you know them well.

 

[filmjunkie4ever]

I’ve also tried the “surprise” method but find that I must be doing it wrong as well. I have 3# triggers on most of my bolt action rifles but also use leverguns with creepy almost two-stage triggers.

What I do is steady up in whatever position it might be, bench with bags or a field position with a natural rest or my sling, and take in a large breath. As I squeeze I slowly exhale to relax myself, focusing solely on my trigger squeeze and target alignment. It’s worked for me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Elkman]

I would not even begin to imagine who would want to be surprised. My most used rifle goes off when I tell it to, not before or after, exactly when I mentally press the button in my brain. I have a couple of others that may surprise me but not often. I do my best to insure that my triggers are all as identical as possible.

 

[Muldoon]

If you want to become a great marksman....learn how to shoot a handgun first!

Then...if you desire to become even a GREATER marksman.....learn how to shoot a FLINTLOCK rifle!!