Understanding the difference between Factory Hunting Rifles

[DrMike]

Hodgeman raises a good point. If your centrefire rifle will be a bolt action, it is a sound course to shoot a bolt action rimfire. Likewise, if your centrefire is a lever action, use a lever action rimfire. Ditto, if you select a pump action centrefire rifle, choose a pump action rimfire. This will permit you to train your body to shoot consistently with the action you have chosen. This can be critical in the field during those times when a critical shot is presented for the game you dare no miss.

 

[Oldtrader3]

I would consider buying a .22 LR that you will want to keep. I went through several cheap (Marlin) .22LR rifles as a young adult before I bought a good one. If I was going to buy one for learning and keeping now, I would consider a CZ 452, or 455. They are abut $450. but are very good quality and will last a lifetime. You never will shoot a .22 LR barrel out.

I have a Winchester Model 63 rifle but if I was going to buy a .22 LR, I would strongly consider the CZ as an investment for life.

 

[RiverRider]

I read something once that I think is worth consideration: pick the rifle first. When you find one that seems to say "take me home," do it. Cartridge considerations are secondary. Of course, there are reasons to avoid certain things like .460 Weatherbys that will kick the snot out of you, or a .280 Ross you can't find ammo for...but most cartridges are capable in many different applications (within limits). As you learn more about different cartridges you're likely to develop your own ideas as to what you like and want.

The bottom line is, what's written on the head stamp matters little. It's all about what bullet, how fast, and where it hits!

 

[Anonymous]

I read something once that I think is worth consideration: pick the rifle first. When you find one that seems to say "take me home," do it. Cartridge considerations are secondary. ....The bottom line is, what's written on the head stamp matters little. It's all about what bullet, how fast, and where it hits!

RR brings up a good point. For most hunting situations the general run of cartridges perform so similarly there's essentially no difference.

I chuckle when I go back and see articles like ".270v .30-06" and ".308 v. .30-06", I admit it's a lot of fun looking at all the minuitae but critters don't read.

For general hunting- pick something between a 25-06 and a .338WM and go fill the ark.

 

[Tytalus]

RiverRider, thanks for that point about picking the gun. I figure that's what I've got to do, I just don't have the time right now, I'm working long days (partly because I spend too much time on the net) but also because I have deadlines before christmas.

 

[nvbroncrider]

Another suggestion if you have some friends with rifles tag along with them to the range and fire a few rounds. Might help for selection, cartridge stock fit etc. Kinda gives a guy an idea of what they are getting into to make a good decision on your first rifle.

 

[elkeater2]

All good advice! There has been some talk of recoil level. Recoil tolerance is a very individual thing, and you are the only one who can determine that. There are slightly built folks who have no problems, and big ol' guys who do! :lol: Going with friends who shoot, or even getting to a range where people will respond to a new guy would certainly help if you can actually do some shooting prior to a purchase. If, for you, recoil may be an issue - then I don't agree that caliber selection is not important. Be aware that through handloading and some ammo suppliers 'reduced power' loads are available in the common calibers.
Rifles that look nice and feel good when you bring them to shoulder in a shop don't tell the whole story. Your confidence and enjoyment can be affected by by a rifle that recoils excessively. One way to control that is by the cartridge and bullet selection initially. More important in my mind are stock design and fit, rifle weight, and recoil pads and absorbing devices. There are a couple current threads about severely recoiling rifles and recoil in general on the forum here. What you can find (for example) is that one person has a .308 Winchester which is absolutely punishing with 165 gr. bullets, and someone else has a different rifle in the same cartridge which is a pleasure to shoot.
Since you spend plenty of time on the web now, I'd suggest researching this topic as you narrow your search for larger caliber rifles.
I brought all this up because I didn't see it really discussed so far. Please don't conclude that you have a bunch to worry about in the recoil dept, it just should be a factor in your decisions. Hope we can help!

EE2

 

[mcseal2]

They guys are all spot on about getting a 22 first and becoming proficient with it.

Something not everyone looks at is the safety design and how it will affect you carrying the rifle. I often carry my rifle on a sling over my left shoulder which can cause a slide safety like on a Remington 700 or Tikka to rub into the fire position on my pack. That takes a couple really good rifles off the market for me, I need a 3 position or tang safety. When evaluating rifles this is something to keep in mind.

One gun I might suggest if it fits you is the Ruger American. They are not pretty but they work. They will retail for around $350 new and have many features found in the higher priced guns. The two I have shot were extremely accurate also, 3 shots under 3/4" at 100yds. One of these in a 270, 30-06, or 308 would be a good first game rifle, and one in a 243 would handle coyotes and small varmints. A Savage 22LR with the accutrigger would have a similar trigger to the Ruger American also letting you become familiar with the design. If you decide to upgrade from the American in the future it never hurts to have a back-up rifle that shoots the same cartridge to take along on the hunt.

The Ruger American is a very lightweight rifle which is good for carrying, but it makes them a little less forgiving to shoot than some. A heavier rifle can absorb more of the shooter's movement than a lighter rifle. It's always a trade-off that each shooter needs to decide for themself. Also a lighter rifle will kick a bit harder than a heavier rifle shooting the same cartridge. Last but not least, a light barrelled rifle is fine for predators or big game where your shots are spaced out over a long time, but not as good for high volume varmint shooting like for prairie dogs. A lighter weight barrel will heat up faster and the increased heat can change the point of impact. If you don't plan to shoot prairie dogs or lots of practice rounds in a hurry I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[Oldtrader3]

Another thing to consider, at least as it pertains to centerfire rifles, is buying a push feed Winchester Model 70 or similar which is out-of-style presently but these rifles are just as well made as their newer, controlled round feed (CRF) and more expensive cousins.

I mentioned the Model 70, because you can buy the push fed XTR modes from the 1970's pretty cheaply and they usually are very accurate and well made rifles. I have owned several over the years and never have had one let me down on operation or functional accuracy.

 

[cloverleaf]

Welcome! Careful....you will find this spot a bit adictive I will only echo the advice of Guy and Dr Mike. Truth be told, we live in the Golden age of rifles for the average guy IMHO. The bargin priced rifles from Savage, Ruger, Rem. and others shoot as well or better than some of the high dollar customs you see in the gun Mags. Just check out the aveage group size for some of those 2-3 grand rifles. Most of them group no smaller than my used $200.00 Stevens would do. A .22 is the way to go....cheap fun, no recoil. Be sure and use hearing protection. It will pay dividends in your shooting skill and accuracy over the long run.

My uncle used to tell me, "dont worry too much about buying a used rifle if the barrel looks reasonably clean and its not obviously broken. Most guys dont shoot enough in three lifetimes to wear a rifle out".

We;come again to the board. CL

 

[gerry]

Can't add too much from what has already been said, Charlie is spot on with recommending a CZ 452 or the updated 455 in 22 lr. I have one in a left hand 452 and it is a fantastic gun. For getting 3 guns this is what I would consider:

- 22 lr
- a small caliber rifle for varmints and deer, calibers 243 or 25-06.
- big game from deer to moose, 270 WSM, 7mm Rem Mag, 308, 30-06.

There are lots of great calibers out there but these are popular enough that you can find ammo anywhere (like Canadian Tire) other great choices that aren't as popular but still not too hard to find would be the 280 Rem and 7mm WSM. Cartridges like these won't kick too hard and give you excellent on game performance with a properly picked load.

 

[FOTIS]

You can get by in the beginning with a 22 LR and a 25-06 or 270. Then add as needed or as disease progresses.

 

[gerry]

You can get by in the beginning with a 22 LR and a 25-06 or 270. Then add as needed or as disease progresses.

That works, although a 270 would be superior for moose and elk over a 25-06. Somehow I left out the 270 in my previous post, it is one of the best rounds available.

 

[elkeater2]

Fun thread. I guess I'd have to say .22LR bolt action; 30-06 bolt action to start with. Then, after the 'disease progresses' like Fotis says, fill in with a varmint/deer caliber like a 6mm somethingorother, or a larger/heavier game thing like a .338. The fill in part would depend on what part of hunting appeals the most in the OP's part of the world. I think 'varmints' tend to be a little larger there. The '06 is so versatile in comparison to many of our favorites I would choose it for a first centerfire. Even the .308 isn't up to it in the true versatility dept. The Rugers, mid-line Savages, bargain Tikkas and some of the Winchester and Weatherby Vanguards (Howas too) come to mind for new rifles that would stay satisfactory over time.
DrMike can speak to conversion rates, but I think your +- $700 on a centerfire should get you a rifle and scope that will meet your needs for quite awhile.

EE2