what manual to use?

[metallica]

I am just wondering what manual to use as a starting point??

I have been having problems working up a load for my 300wby 165gr accumarks. The best Ive been able to get is a baseball sized group with the odd flyer (usually on a cold barrel clean or fouled) I have used all the powders listed in the manual im using. starting at the books min (witch is around the 78-84gr range) and have also played with seating depths....... No luck!! I figured my gun doesnt like the accubonds

Anyways I was just looking at the reloading info on Noslers ballistics room and the three powders listed have a starting grain at 75gr and max at 79gr!!!!! way below the so called min loads in my other manual..... So have I been shooting hot loads?? is my manual setting me up for disaster?? I have a chrony but havnt thought about pulling it out yet because my bullets were all over the map. (and yes i know i should have been checking )

Well ive loaded up some more accubonds but now at the lower grain load thats on noslers site. hopefully that will solve my problem.


thanks

 

[JD338]

Reloading manuals are reference guides, based on test conditions. Different companies may have a different set of variables.
Its good to have a go to book and then cross reference with one or two different sources.
I have found over the years to rely on the Nosler data. I have also had good accuracy with their "most accurate load" listed powder and charge weight.
So long as you don't have pressure signs such as flatened primers, loose primer pockets, sticky bolt lift, etc, you were loading to safe pressures.
Let us know how the new loads shoot for you.

JD338

 

[metallica]

Thanks,

I never had any problems such as split cases or loose primer pockets ect... But maybe thats because of the top quality nosler brass :wink:

Now what is a good way to work up a load? I was thinking of picking a powder loading lets say 6 rounds of each lets say 74gr, 75grn, 76grn, and 77gr and seeing what one has the best group. is this acceptable or whats the best way to do it?

thanks again, and hopefully it not to windy tomorrow and I will let you know how thigs work out.

 

[Guest]

How I do it is to start at the 'start charge' and work up by 2% increments until I get to the max charge, or pressure signs appear, whichever comes first. If the start charge is exceptionally low, I have been known to start at 10% below the published max, if I am duplicating the load exactly (same primer, bullet brand/weight, case brand, etc.), and work up from there, again in 2% increments. If I were loading 75gr charges, like in my 270Wby, I wouldn't work up one grain at a time. I'd start at the start load, and move up by 1.5-2gr, depending on the range from start to max charge. I generally load up 3-5rds of each charge weight, depending on the cartridge, my familiarity with the gun (how many times I've loaded for it before), and the overall case capacity, as larger cases are more forgiving of a tad extra powder than smaller cases. Anyway, that's how I do it, and I also shoot over a chrono for all my load development. Can't see how I did it prior to having one.

Did you buy the gun new, or has it possibly been shot a bunch prior? If not new, try one of the foaming bore cleaners, as you might have some hidden copper in there. Also, check the scope mounts for tightness, as loose scope mounts/rings will also affect group size. Ditto for action screws being too loose or too tight. Oh, and if it's an Accumark, when you tighten the action screws, be sure to tighten them in two stages, first to 45in-lbs, then 65in-lbs, and start with the trigger guard screw, not the forward action screw, as is usually the case. That's according to Weatherby.

 

[metallica]

I bought the gun new and clean it really well after every trip to the range. Ibought it as my gun to use while guideing bow hunters for grizzly and just bought a box of weatherby shell that lasted 4 years of guiding. I have just started to reload for it this year as I am going to make it my primary hunting rifle.

Can I use lock tight on bases and rings?

 

[metallica]

Well my day at the range was so so, i tryed the lower grains amounts and had about the same results. I would say it was the shooter but I have been using a rock solid rest. I went to load up some different shells today and opened a new box of nosler brass and had 10 out of the 50 shells dinged up in various spots.

Also not good was i took some partitions that were shooing ok the last time i was out at the range and today they were all over the map.... Any ideas of what I could try next? thanks

 

[boomer68]

When I had a .300Wby, it shot well with IMR7828 and Reloader 22. Maybe try those powders.

 

[Guest]

It sounds like either copper fouling in the barrel or loose scope screws. Or perhaps the scope is toasting, but that's another idea entirely.

Try one of the foaming bore cleaners, seriously. I had a rifle I thought was thoroughly cleaned (the bore looked shiny and new) and I cleaned it again with the foaming cleaner, and the patches came out navy blue for the first few, indicating heavy copper fouling. For roughly $5-10, it's a cheap test.

Yes, you can use loctite (blue only) on the base screws. I use it on the ring screws, too, but other folks I know don't do that. Your choice. be sure when you disassemble it that you remove any dried loctite before reassembling it. If you don't, the screws will strip more easily.

Also, I just thought about this - check the crown of the barrel for nicks or dings. If there are any, have a gunsmith recrown it for you, as that will destroy accuracy.

 

[metallica]

well i can eliminate the scope problem. I have a 4 month old ziess scope and took it all off last night including the bases and used lock tight on everything. and the powders ive used are IMR 7828, RL 22, and IMR 4831.

bullets- BT, accubong, partitions, fail safe

I guess ill try the foam cleaner.

thanks guys

 

[metallica]

well I remounted my scope cleaning everything aand used lock tight. cleaned the h#ll out of my barrel, and took my time at the range waiting about 5min between each shot, using my chrony and my gun is shooting like nothing ive seen before. Thanks guys!!

the load thats working for me and that ill start to work up is..

165 grain accubonds
col= 3.715"
74grains of IMR 4831


Im only getting 2900fts out of it so a little work can be done but it shoot good so thats all that matters

thanks again guys

 

[Guest]

bullets- BT, accubong, partitions, fail safe

I think I've 'smoked out' your problem, Metallica! :wink: :lol:

 

[metallica]

busted