rkymt hunter
Beginner
- Jan 29, 2006
- 28
- 0
Ok so what gun cleaning solvent does everybody for there rifles,did the foams work any good?
What slovent do you use?
- Thread starter rkymt hunter
- Start date
DrMike
Ballistician
- Nov 8, 2006
- 37,014
- 5,294
Almost any of the major solvents will work, if you use them correctly. The foams are convenient and do a fine job. I have used two different foam agents with good results. However, I have always been a bit uncomfortable about the expansion of the foams into the action, but those who use them regularly report no significant problems.
I break in quite a few rifles each month and use Butch's Bore Shine almost exclusively for that work. With load development, I use Butch's unless requested to use another solvent. I use G96 Copper Solvent after Hoppes 9 powder solvent on my own bigger bore rifles. I am quite pleased with the way in which these two solvents work in concert. When there is stubborn copper deposits, I have used both Sweet's and Barnes CR10 followed by G96 spray lube. Consequently, I do not use steel or copper brushes, relying instead on nylon and cotton patches. According to my records, I have rifles that have fired well over 3,000 rounds without noticeable degradation of accuracy.
I break in quite a few rifles each month and use Butch's Bore Shine almost exclusively for that work. With load development, I use Butch's unless requested to use another solvent. I use G96 Copper Solvent after Hoppes 9 powder solvent on my own bigger bore rifles. I am quite pleased with the way in which these two solvents work in concert. When there is stubborn copper deposits, I have used both Sweet's and Barnes CR10 followed by G96 spray lube. Consequently, I do not use steel or copper brushes, relying instead on nylon and cotton patches. According to my records, I have rifles that have fired well over 3,000 rounds without noticeable degradation of accuracy.
- Oct 30, 2004
- 24,106
- 2,673
Barnes cr10 or sweets 762
I have thoroughly cleaned my .270 Win and 7 mm Rem Mag with Hoppe's Bench Rest. My question is how often should I use Hoppe's Bench Rest (or similiar copper remover)? If I work up a dozen new loads should I again clean thoroughly again or wait for some specified amount of shots?
Thanks for any feedback.
Thanks for any feedback.
- Nov 4, 2004
- 24,484
- 6,910
I use Shooters Choice MC#7 and Sweets 7.62 along with Rem Oil.
JD338
JD338
DrMike
Ballistician
- Nov 8, 2006
- 37,014
- 5,294
MarkZ asks, "If I work up a dozen new loads should I again clean thoroughly again or wait for some specified amount of shots."
When developing loads, I like to start each set with a clean barrel. For my data, a set consists of between nine and fifteen rounds, depending upon the data I seek. Perhaps I am only fine tuning a load, and I need fewer rounds since I already know the maximum load and the range that gives the most consistent data or the tightest groups. On the other hand, if I am developing a load I will make up more loads to permit me to gauge the best ballistics and the best groups.
I operate on the philosophy that in order to derive meaningful data I need to ensure that the variables are controlled as much as possible, eliminating unknown variation. If I were truly scientific, I would clean after each shot and ensure that I began with a clean barrel each time. In real world ballistics, however, it seems advisable to at least begin each set of loads with the same conditions in order to derive meaningful conclusions.
Hopefully, this is not straying too far from the question rkymt hunter asked yesterday. All the cleaning agents named in the various posts work well. It is not wise to mix them as strange chemical reactions do take place on occasion. However, all the copper solvents I have used work if used as directed. Likewise, all the powder and lead solvents do what they are advertised to do if I use them as directed. I do know that I am perhaps overly critical about a clean bore, especially with compared to some of my compadres. However, I haven't replaced barrels as often as some of them either, and that anecdotal evidence only reinforces my bias about clean bores.
When developing loads, I like to start each set with a clean barrel. For my data, a set consists of between nine and fifteen rounds, depending upon the data I seek. Perhaps I am only fine tuning a load, and I need fewer rounds since I already know the maximum load and the range that gives the most consistent data or the tightest groups. On the other hand, if I am developing a load I will make up more loads to permit me to gauge the best ballistics and the best groups.
I operate on the philosophy that in order to derive meaningful data I need to ensure that the variables are controlled as much as possible, eliminating unknown variation. If I were truly scientific, I would clean after each shot and ensure that I began with a clean barrel each time. In real world ballistics, however, it seems advisable to at least begin each set of loads with the same conditions in order to derive meaningful conclusions.
Hopefully, this is not straying too far from the question rkymt hunter asked yesterday. All the cleaning agents named in the various posts work well. It is not wise to mix them as strange chemical reactions do take place on occasion. However, all the copper solvents I have used work if used as directed. Likewise, all the powder and lead solvents do what they are advertised to do if I use them as directed. I do know that I am perhaps overly critical about a clean bore, especially with compared to some of my compadres. However, I haven't replaced barrels as often as some of them either, and that anecdotal evidence only reinforces my bias about clean bores.
I`ve been a Wipe Out fan for a couple years now. A shot down the bore when I get home from the range then wipe it out the next morning, 95% of the time the bore is clean. The toughter, roughter bores may need a 2nd shot. I`ve used Butches, Hoppes BR, Rem Clean, Shooters Choice Copper remover, Sweets, and this is the easiest stuff I`ve found. It also has no odor so the wife isn`t yappin` about the basement stinking... :grin:
I use hopes#9 powder solvent usual just 5 patches each wet and dry over a good jag and its shows clean patches. Then I use hopes#9 and gun oil and the patches show more dirt. Two or three oiled and dry patches till clean and put away oiled for stroage.
I just hunt and if I work up a new load thats just say 30-50 or so rounds. I usualy just shoot say 100-200 rounds per rifle each year. I don't use non-gliding metal bullets and no moly either and have no (not ever) had any copper issues. I am a firm beleiver than some copper in the bore is a good thing for accuricy and barrel life.
I gonna get some Koil oil and maybe try some other non amomia solvets like bore tec 22rimfire or the like. Guns shot great with out sweets 7.62 and barns pure copper bullets and they will continue to do so. They have their place but I don't require them for any of my needs.
I just hunt and if I work up a new load thats just say 30-50 or so rounds. I usualy just shoot say 100-200 rounds per rifle each year. I don't use non-gliding metal bullets and no moly either and have no (not ever) had any copper issues. I am a firm beleiver than some copper in the bore is a good thing for accuricy and barrel life.
I gonna get some Koil oil and maybe try some other non amomia solvets like bore tec 22rimfire or the like. Guns shot great with out sweets 7.62 and barns pure copper bullets and they will continue to do so. They have their place but I don't require them for any of my needs.
YoteSmoker
Handloader
- Oct 3, 2006
- 1,602
- 0
I use in this order GunSlick foaming bore cleaner (2 soaks), Hoppes Bench Rest, Rem Oil. I use a nylon brush and patches. Seems to work pretty well.
Antelope_Sniper
Handloader
- Jan 25, 2008
- 2,618
- 0
Alot of it depends on how hot your loads are. In my experience Nosler bullets tend to deposit alot more copper when pushed above 3000 fps. Since I'm a velocity nut, I use CR10 at every cleaning in my high velocity rifles. For the tough jobs, I use Outers foul out remover. It's and electronic device that uses electrolysis to draw out the copper. The cost about $100 from Midway, and in my opinion, are a good investment. In my lower velocity rifles such as my .308, I get very few copper deposits. I'm a fan of Quick Scrub, but for 1/3 the price I can't tell too much difference between it and the Engine cleaner I get from my local parts store. I have a feeling the solution suggested by 6ppcar would work really well. I think I'll mix some up. I might substitue CR10 or some straight amonia for the Sweets....
Killertraylor
Beginner
- Feb 23, 2008
- 5
- 0
If you haven't used wipe out, you are really missing out. Especially if you shoot Barnes bullets. I will challenge you to clean your gun with whatever you want - use the "best" copper remover on the market - heck, use it 10 times. Then shoot wipe out foam down your barrel, let it sit over night and run a patch through it in the morning - guaranteed it will come out blue. Best cleaner on the market by far, and I've used them all. No more brushes, just plug the barrel from the chamber end with a couple of oversized patches, shoot it from the muzzle end and let it sit. Run several clean patches through it the next day and you are done.
big rifle man
Handloader
- Dec 21, 2005
- 850
- 0
Over the years I've tgried just about everything. Hoppes No #9 smells good but doesn't work as well as the newer solvents. I use Shooters choice with a brass brush for general cleaning with a corrosion X follow up. About every 100rounds I use Witches brew put out by Holland Gunworks. This stuff is fantastic. It cleans carbon and copper like no other product I've used. Again I follow up with Corrosion X for Rust protection. I have found that Copper accumulation is non existent after using Witches brew and then shooting 10-20 rounds of 300WSM followed by a cleaning with Shooters choice.Definitely works!
