Pressure signs

Looks as if you're moving in the right direction. That is definitely a confidence builder.
Well you seem to be the go to man on the nosler forum from what I can see. Very knowledgeabl, so if you don’t mind what would you do to try to get that group tighter Ik for sure that I need to shoot it with my barrel cold, I seated them at 2.735 witch is .097 jump to the lands and that was at 51.4 grains of powder my next load was 51.9 an they was back into a 3inch group
 
I didn't read all the replies so if this has been mentioned already I apologize.

Oil in the chamber or on the brass will prevent the brass from gripping the chamber walls and greatly increase bolt thrust, which will cause ejector marks at well below max pressure.

I ran into this years ago with a 308, making sure the chamber was dry and all the lube was off the brass cured it.
 
Well you seem to be the go to man on the nosler forum from what I can see. Very knowledgeabl, so if you don’t mind what would you do to try to get that group tighter Ik for sure that I need to shoot it with my barrel cold, I seated them at 2.735 witch is .097 jump to the lands and that was at 51.4 grains of powder my next load was 51.9 an they was back into a 3inch group
I assure you that I am humbled by the wealth of knowledge from the multiple individuals posting on this forum. I learn constantly from those who post here. The gents and ladies posting here are eager to share their knowledge when the request is presented sincerely and humbly, just as you've done.

As stated previously, the ABLR can be quite fussy in some rifles. If yours happens to be one of those, you can expend a lot of time and burn a lot of propellant just trying to find an appropriate load. I recommend (and practise) using the AccuBond unless there is a very good reason to go to the more demanding ABLR. The AB will deliver the goods on your 270W farther than you will ever want to shoot, and I'd be greatly surprised if you didn't find an accurate load much quicker.

However, if you are laser-focused on the ABLR, the best you can do is continue playing with seating depth. I have had instances where a change of 0.002 inches made the difference in making a demanding customer happy. It was such an incremental change that I doubt the customer would ever be able to duplicate the load with any level of consistency. The customer was happy because he/she had a laminated target that allowed boasting, but without incredible attention to detail, they would not be able to reproduce the result.

For hunting, a one-inch group will yield dead deer easily out to 600 yards, which is farther than most of us are able to shoot under field conditions. I'm not discounting those who practise and spend the time to become familiar with their gear, but for the average hunter, a four-hundred yard shot is pretty long.

Hope that helps. I'm sure others will give their insight as time permits.
 
You're on the right path now. Little tweaking and that group should tighten up (Archie Bell and the Drells. I'm an old dude) Yeah, the 270 Win can jab you a little. Dan.
Ah, yes, I do recall Archie Bell and the Drells! What a kick to be reminded of that song. Now I won't be able to get the music out of my head all evening. Thanks a lot!:p
 
I assure you that I am humbled by the wealth of knowledge from the multiple individuals posting on this forum. I learn constantly from those who post here. The gents and ladies posting here are eager to share their knowledge when the request is presented sincerely and humbly, just as you've done.

As stated previously, the ABLR can be quite fussy in some rifles. If yours happens to be one of those, you can expend a lot of time and burn a lot of propellant just trying to find an appropriate load. I recommend (and practise) using the AccuBond unless there is a very good reason to go to the more demanding ABLR. The AB will deliver the goods on your 270W farther than you will ever want to shoot, and I'd be greatly surprised if you didn't find an accurate load much quicker.

However, if you are laser-focused on the ABLR, the best you can do is continue playing with seating depth. I have had instances where a change of 0.002 inches made the difference in making a demanding customer happy. It was such an incremental change that I doubt the customer would ever be able to duplicate the load with any level of consistency. The customer was happy because he/she had a laminated target that allowed boasting, but without incredible attention to detail, they would not be able to reproduce the result.

For hunting, a one-inch group will yield dead deer easily out to 600 yards, which is farther than most of us are able to shoot under field conditions. I'm not discounting those who practise and spend the time to become familiar with their gear, but for the average hunter, a four-hundred yard shot is pretty long.

Hope that helps. I'm sure others will give their insight as time permits.
Exactly the information I’m looking for I will definitely be trying the regular accubonds and I’ll probably never shoot over 400yds with this rifle but I have the bullets an the powder already so I figured that I might as well attempt to get it tuned in, but I do plan on in the near future to build my own rifle and be very familiarized with it an shooting that long distance. I am no where at that point yet, I have bigger fish to fry right now like getting the graspe of what I’m doing an getting more knowledge under my hat, thank you very much I really appreciate that there has been a lot of people comment on here to help point me in the right direction
 
There are some very knowledgeable people posting here. You won't find a more friendly group than those that share their knowledge base with others on this forum.
 
I didn't read all the replies so if this has been mentioned already I apologize.

Oil in the chamber or on the brass will prevent the brass from gripping the chamber walls and greatly increase bolt thrust, which will cause ejector marks at well below max pressure.

I ran into this years ago with a 308, making sure the chamber was dry and all the lube was off the brass cured it.
Yup, it happened to me a while back when I forgot to use a chamber mop in the chamber after cleaning my barrel, and the junction of the shoulder / body of a case looked rounded after it was fired instead of the sharp angle as usual. There was some leftover Bore Tech Eliminator in the chamber.
Trawick78; I learned some things from fine folks here. Good to see you going on the right track.
 
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Exactly the information I’m looking for I will definitely be trying the regular accubonds and I’ll probably never shoot over 400yds with this rifle but I have the bullets an the powder already so I figured that I might as well attempt to get it tuned in, but I do plan on in the near future to build my own rifle and be very familiarized with it an shooting that long distance. I am no where at that point yet, I have bigger fish to fry right now like getting the grasp of what I’m doing an getting more knowledge under my hat, thank you very much I really appreciate that there has been a lot of people comment on here to help point me in the right direction
400 yards with your chambering will be no problem for the AB's, if you can do your part when shooting from field rests.
Concerning your future build, what are the goals (animal size and max distance) that you have in mind?
Chambering?
What action, stock, barrel (Twist Rate), optic?

The best way to learn to shoot distance, is to actually do it.
Not knowing what other rifles you might have (if any), once you get your hunting load down, you can save some money, and use a bullet that is not so pricey.
If possible, find someone who can help, teach, mentor.
If you could find someone local that knows what they are doing, even a couple of hours could be of great help.
What optic/turret/reticle do you have on your 270?
 
400 yards with your chambering will be no problem for the AB's, if you can do your part when shooting from field rests.
Concerning your future build, what are the goals (animal size and max distance) that you have in mind?
Chambering?
What action, stock, barrel (Twist Rate), optic?

The best way to learn to shoot distance, is to actually do it.
Not knowing what other rifles you might have (if any), once you get your hunting load down, you can save some money, and use a bullet that is not so pricey.
If possible, find someone who can help, teach, mentor.
If you could find someone local that knows what they are doing, even a couple of hours could be of great help.
What optic/turret/reticle do you have on your 270?
Excellent advice, this. Ernie has given you the straight skinny. For sure, the only certain way to learn to shoot (whether at distance or not) is to do it! There are quite enough keyboard ninjas already! I meet them on a regular basis. Those who shoot are somewhat more rare.
 
Ah, yes, I do recall Archie Bell and the Drells! What a kick to be reminded of that song. Now I won't be able to get the music out of my head all evening. Thanks a lot!:p

Ah, yes, I do recall Archie Bell and the Drells! What a kick to be reminded of that song. Now I won't be able to get the music out of my head all evening. Thanks a lot!:p
What are friends for🤣 Dan.
 
400 yards with your chambering will be no problem for the AB's, if you can do your part when shooting from field rests.
Concerning your future build, what are the goals (animal size and max distance) that you have in mind?
Chambering?
What action, stock, barrel (Twist Rate), optic?

The best way to learn to shoot distance, is to actually do it.
Not knowing what other rifles you might have (if any), once you get your hunting load down, you can save some money, and use a bullet that is not so pricey.
If possible, find someone who can help, teach, mentor.
If you could find someone local that knows what they are doing, even a couple of hours could be of great help.
What optic/turret/reticle do you have on your 270?
I have a Nikon monarch 3 4x16 bdc on my 270. I have various of rifles from 243win 270win 30-06 308 338federal to a 45-70 just that Old 91 modle Abolt hunter 270win is my favorite,once I start practicing long distance it will most likely be with my 243. I would really love to build a 25-06 with that Abolt action, but I can’t find any to build off of so I’m thinking imma go with a Remington 700 action with a 24” 1-10 twist not sure yet about the stock I wanna put on it an a leupold mark 5hd scope is what I would like to put in it, an shooting anywhere from about 800 on in.. my new job gives me a lot of time off to hunt an I wanna start back going to the mid west hunting again me an my dad use to go a lot when I was younger but that was something that just kinda faded away as he got older an wasn’t able to climb the side of the mountains anymore
 
What is the twist rate of your 243 Winchester? What scope?
What kind of turrets do you have on your 270 (Nikon optic)?
Your 308 Winchester should handle 168 ELD-M's or the A-Max well. It is a good bullet for deer sized game, and decent for distance.

I do like my Leupold VX-5 HD scopes. The 3-15x44 is the one I use and I have several. A couple of the Wind-Plex reticle and another has the Impact-14 MOA. Good turrets and glass. I would NOT recommend a high magnification for what you are considering. Anything in that 12-16 max magnification range is plenty to do the job. 8-10 would actually work, but I like a scope that has a side focus or parallax adjustment.

What scopes do you have, that have a turret that is designed to be used to adjust for distance?
Any that the MOA or MIL's are easily seen on the turret, and you can easily return the turret to zero?

Is your Nikon scope with the BDC reticle in the first focal plane or in the second focal plane? In other words, do you need to have the magnification at a certain spot for the reticle to have the subtension you want? Typically a SFP reticle will require the magnification to be at the highest power or somewhere around 10-12 power. Depends on the brand.

I started shooting distance with a ballistic reticle-They work! It is just not my preference anymore.
There is also some issues that typically rise up and bite folks as well
I have hunted and killed game out to 700 yards using a 3-12 Burris LER pistol scope with their BP reticle, I have also shot a LR tactical steel match using the same scope.
In my opinion there are easier and better ways to skin the cat in terms of accommodating for distance and wind.

Hitting beyond 600 yards at distance on steel is one thing...It is so fun! I have first time newbies do it all the time on their first outing with one of my specialty pistols.
Cold bore shot from a field positions (beyond 600 yards), under duress, and on demand is a whole different cat.
I encourage people to practice beyond their max hunting distance.
I also encourage people to go practice (once they have their drops confirmed at distance) with their hunting rifles in gusty winds and only shooting from positions they use when hunting (No bench).
 
Slightly off topic, but if you bought Nosler brass that comes "ready to load", I would highly suggest full length sizing all of it before you go any further. I used Nosler "factory first" brass to develope a load for my 30-06. I found found a very accurate load for the 165AB with Varget. When I full length sized the brass and load up a batch and went to sight in the scope for that load, it was all over the place. At that time recalled noticing a little more resistance to seat the bullet in the brass I sized vs. the new brass. I now size & trim all new brass using the sizer die I bought for that specific cartridge.
 
Lots of excellent advice given. I echo the thought of using the AB for hunting and shooting under 400 yards.
Don't forget the BT's. I formed the opinion years ago that if a rifle doesn't shoot BT's, there are bigger issues with the rifle.
BT's are pretty easy to tune to your rifle and they are wicked on game.

JD338
 

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