165 or 180 gr Elk and Mule Deer in my 30-06

I too agree that you should try your load without the crimp. Its not needed. In fact, I load the 338 RUM with out a crimp.

JD338
 
I think if your happy with it and it shoots consistently to your POA everytime, I'd leave it alone. I think you could do a whole lot of tinkering with the combo to gain a little more, but if your first shot is going where your want, followed by your 2nd, then your in pretty good shape. It has already worked for you and I am the MASTER of messing with something that doesn't need anything, but sometimes, it's best just to ditch the bench and practice shooting at steel or other targets off shooting shoots or backpacks.

Good luck buddy. Hopefully you stuff another one of those 180's into another bull this Fall!
 
I would bed the tang also. Bedding both the tang and the recoil lug, and the first 2 inches of the barrel will absolutely lock the action and barrel in it's axis. I'm not talking about a major job, relieve a 1/2 to 5/8" around the rear action screw, glass that, and that's all you need to get the job done.
I have 3 press's, a turret press for all my pistol loading, a RCBS that never gets used anymore, and an ancient Lyman Spartan press. The Spartan is what I use for all my rifle loads and my old M700 BDL LH will shoot a good load under .200 repeatably.
Try setting your dies like this and it will complement the play in the ram of that old Lyman.
Get your hands on a quality washer about 1/8" thick. I surface ground mine decades ago. You don't want a run of the mill hardware store washer because the surfaces are not parallel. You can order one from McMaster Carr and it is worth it.
Run your sizer down to where you want it to be, but leave the lock ring loose
Be sure the shell holder is loose so it will move to center itself.
Lube a case that has been shot in your rifle and put it in the shell holder, then slide the washer down over the case until it contacts the shell holder.
Run the ram up until the washer contacts the bottom of the die and the lubed case is in the die. I would discard the rubber ring because it won't be needed.
Now tighten down the lockring while keeping pressure on the bottom of the die with the ram.
Your sizer is now trued and locked in place.

The expander can be your worst enemy if not set right. Here are 2 methods that work well.
Run a lubed case all the way into the die. Now loosen the lock nuts on the expander stem. Withdraw the case until you feel the expander contact the inside of the neck at the shoulder. While maintaining pressure tighten the lock nuts and your expander is trued to the sizer die.
This method is what I use now; Deprime off the press. Remove the entire expander assembly. Size all your cases. Now screw the expander stem until you can see it at the bottom of the case, leave it loose. Lube inside the case necks. Now run the case over the expander ball and pull it back. The loose threads will allow the ball to float thereby keeping alignment of the entire case. (I actually have a separate size die with an expander already in it and just screw that die in leaving it loose to float.)
Your die is now in perfect alignment and is locked down tight. A little movement in the ram allows the cartridge to float and find center when resized.
The Spartan press is perfect for this type of sizing.
I would try some IMR 4350, as I loaded for the '06 for years and this was my most accurate powder.
Work with your seating depths. Here is an example of what my 7mag does with small depth adjustments.
 

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Rol_P":2kdpkpyo said:
Thanks for the continuing suggestions Fellas, If I remember correctly, my comparator OAL to the lands is 3.860" last time I measured it. The comparator OAL of the 180 Accubonds is 3.745". By comparison Federal Premium 180 Accubonds run @ 3.620".


This is a .30-06, right? Are you sure of those figures?


P
 
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