22-250 stock project. FINISHED (pics)

[wisconsinteacher]

Well like the title says, I am going to restock my Ruger M77 22-250. I have the pillars, bedding compound and a new stock from Boyds.

#1 the pillars are .536" in diameter. What size drill bit would you use to open the action screw holes in the stock?

#2 Any tips to getting the front hole perfect? The angle looks like it may be hard to drill perfectly.

 

[SJB358]

I would probably going with a 1/2 twist drill WT. Your likely to take just enough extra in order to get them to fit. If you need to step it up some, you could always go the next increment about the 1/2" drill, or use some round files. The pillars need to be mounted as square as you can get them, but you will end up opening the inside of the pillars up in the inside just a little so you have no screw contact in the center of them, so a little fitting is still going to be required. The bedding will also smooth alot of difference as well.

I haven't ever done a Ruger, but if you use the existing hole and slowly increase the size till you get the hole that works for your pillar, you should be in good shape.

 

[ScreaminEagle]

Go with a 9/16 or .5625 drill. The holes don't have to be perfect, as you are going to fill them up with bedding compound anyway. The key to getting a great bedding job is in the preparation. I use kiwi shoe polish as a release agent. It has never failed me. Use more bedding compound than what you think. Tape the stock good. WD40 and Q-tips work great for cleaning up wet compound. Don't tighten the action down with the screws, as this will induce stress to the bed job. With the slanted recoil lug that is on a ruger, make sure you have a layer or two of masking tape on the front of the lug. DONT FORGET THE RELEASE AGENT.
Steve

 

[wisconsinteacher]

Well I have the holes drilled and the rear pillar is in and looks good. The front pillar, well not so good. I have it drilled and good to go. I think I am getting the correct contact between the pillar and lug but the pillar is way to long. I am guessing it is .2 to .3" to long and I can not get the rifle to sit in the stock without a huge gap between the barrel and stock. So the next question is, what do I need to do to fix this problem?

This is with the pillar pushed flush with the inside of the stock.


This is how far it sticks out when flush with the inside of the stock.


This last picture has my left hand holding the piece that holds the hinge plate to the stock from the outside. I wanted to show how much it sticks up from the inside when flush with the outside surface.


I have read that some pillars need to be cut. I am guessing I am in that boat. Would you do that or try to drill out the hole where the hinge plate bracket mounts to the stock?

I also know that the pictures are hard to see so if it does not make sense please let me know and I will try to explain it better.

 

[SJB358]

WT, use a file and shorten the flat side of the pillar. A regular mill bastard file will take that aluminum away really quick.

Looks good buddy. Stick with it, it looks like your getting ready for bedding. Just remember, a little too short is better than a little too long.

 

[wisconsinteacher]

I was thinking that I could put the pillar in the vise and then take a file to it. That would allow me to keep it square it think.

 

[wisconsinteacher]

If you look at the pictures I posted, you will see there is a step down inside the stock. I have the pillar flush with the top of the step and flush with the outside of the stock. I was able to put it all together and the drop hinge clicks into the latch on the trigger guard. The only thing I am unsure on is the pillar is not flush with the bottom part of the step. The pillar is high there but I am guessing that the bedding material will fill that void in the wood. I think I am ready to bed the pillars into the stock. My thought is to bed the pillars then when that is finished, bed the rest of the action.

 

[SJB358]

Pillars first and then bed it WT. You sound like you have it nailed.

 

[wisconsinteacher]

Alright, the next step is bedding the pillars. I plan on putting release polish on all the metal of the action. From there, I plan on taking the pillars and roughing them up a little. After that, I am going to wipe them clean and mix up some compound. My goal is to get the pillars bedded. My question now is how tight should I screw in the action screws at this point? Also, would you clean up the inside over flow on this step and then after the pillars are in worry about bedding the tang and front action screw? I do not plan on bedding the mag well or around the trigger. Lastly, would you go up the barrel channel an inch or so during the actions bedding?

 

[ScreaminEagle]

There are different thoughts on that, but i have always had goods results with bedding up to the recoil lug and freefloating the rest of the barrel. Just snug up the screws. If you really torque them, you will introduce stress to the bedding job.

 

[SJB358]

There are different thoughts on that, but i have always had goods results with bedding up to the recoil lug and freefloating the rest of the barrel. Just snug up the screws. If you really torque them, you will introduce stress to the bedding job.

I 2nd what Steve says above. 20-25" lbs is plenty. I usually bed about an 1" or so in front of the recoil lug to support the chamber as well.

 

[wisconsinteacher]

Well I have the pillars bedding right now. The rear one was easy but the front one was a pain. I think it was because it is at an angle. I added more compound to the front one but the rear one was clean when I put the screw in. I hope it comes out. I will post pictures after this step and go from there. I am guessing I will need to add more compound to really bed the action. I will be praying for the next 24 hours that I don't have to take a saw to my new stock.

 

[wisconsinteacher]

It came out of the stock. The red is the clay that I used. I need to refill the front lug. I plan on going from the front of the mag well to 1" past the lug. I also plan on bedding the rear tang area and leaving the trigger guard unbedded. The hinge plate is bedded and I think looks okay. I hope to rebed tomorrow.









How does it look so far?

 

[SJB358]

Looks great. Ready for bedding now.

 

[wisconsinteacher]

The first picture I posted is of the front lug. My plan was to go from the mag well to where the factory cut out the channel of the stock. How do you keep it from spreading forward? Modeling clay?

 

[Guest]

You can use clay, thin rubber tubing (weatherstripping, etc.) or even an old bicycle innertube, or so I've been shown. I think the easiest (though not the "cleanest," maybe) is the clay. A 'snake' rolled of clay, laid carefully into the stock, then put the goop in and the action, I believe.

 

[wisconsinteacher]

This should be the last question for this project. I bedded last night and it came out with a little tapping of a rubber hammer. (I was getting worried) What would you use to clean up the modeling clay off the laminate wood stock? I have been using a knife and Q-tips but need a chemical to get the stuff that is in the small cracks.

 

[SJB358]

I have used and continue to use Apple Cider Vinegar. Works well for cleanup and doesn't smell horribly bad either..

 

[wisconsinteacher]

Before


I had two mistakes. #1 was the tang area. I should have had a little more compound in that area. #2 When I bedded the pillars and put force on the screws, the barrel shifted to the side of the channel on the stock. It is still free floated but the gap is bigger on one side of the stock.

Tang area


Front lug area


Finished product.


Thanks to everyone that helped out. I learned a lot and really hope it turns it into a shooter that is consistant.

 

[SJB358]

That looks great WT! That stock really is a huge improvement. How long before you get out to shoot?