Hello all, I'm looking for a little info on reloading for the 223 in an AR platform. I have always had bolt action rifles that I reloaded for, and just recently picked up a AR. I would like to know if there are any different reloading procedures to follow when loading for a semi auto vs bolt action. Do I need to crimp the bullets, is it ok to load to book max, after I fire the rounds can I then just neck size the brass or should it be full length sized. I plan on using new brass and either 40 or 50 gr NBT, this will be for plinking and small varmints. Any help would be greatly appreciated .
223
- Thread starter JMUPT
- Start date
remingtonman_25_06
Handloader
- Nov 17, 2005
- 2,807
- 402
I would think your going to have to definately FL resize everytime.
Crimping 223 ammo is not neccesary for an AR, they have less kick then bolts and you dont see people crimping 223s in bolts.
I was reading the other day though and this was something I didn't know, its a good idea to use Rem or CCI primers due to there thicker cup or you will experience pierced primer issues.
Start at the lowest recomended charge and work up in .5g increments untill you see pressure signs. I think AR's are pretty strong and should handle book max loads, but its still safer and a better idea to work your way up.
Crimping 223 ammo is not neccesary for an AR, they have less kick then bolts and you dont see people crimping 223s in bolts.
I was reading the other day though and this was something I didn't know, its a good idea to use Rem or CCI primers due to there thicker cup or you will experience pierced primer issues.
Start at the lowest recomended charge and work up in .5g increments untill you see pressure signs. I think AR's are pretty strong and should handle book max loads, but its still safer and a better idea to work your way up.
C.Smith
Handloader
- Oct 11, 2006
- 1,411
- 0
The only problem with max loads is that they will batter the rifle quicker and harder and could prematurley wear them out. Thicker primers are a good idea because the AR has a free floating fireing pin that strikes the primer everytime you load a round, this is normal, causing a small dent on the primer. I have read and have been taught that if you do this to the same round too many times the dent gets deeper and deeper and could eventualy detonate that round.
To fast of a powder and not enough gas will go into the gas tube to opperate the bolt. If you do crimp use a taper crimp, as a lot of bullets do not have a crimping groove. I use a light taper crimp just to make sure a bullet is not pushed back into the case during its loading cycle. Otherwise they are easily loaded for. If you do taper crimp make sure to trim your cases to the same length for consistant crimp. Are you using military brass? If so you have to remove the primer crimp too before putting a new one in.
I'm sure I'm missing something.
Right now I have been uisng H335 and I'm going to be trying IMR 4895 with 55 grain Hornady Vmax (Noslers were no where to found in town at the time) sorry. Good luck.
Corey
To fast of a powder and not enough gas will go into the gas tube to opperate the bolt. If you do crimp use a taper crimp, as a lot of bullets do not have a crimping groove. I use a light taper crimp just to make sure a bullet is not pushed back into the case during its loading cycle. Otherwise they are easily loaded for. If you do taper crimp make sure to trim your cases to the same length for consistant crimp. Are you using military brass? If so you have to remove the primer crimp too before putting a new one in.
I'm sure I'm missing something.
Right now I have been uisng H335 and I'm going to be trying IMR 4895 with 55 grain Hornady Vmax (Noslers were no where to found in town at the time) sorry. Good luck.
Corey
All of the above, no need to crimp, plus...
...pick up a copy of the newest Sierra manual. It has separate loads for the AR and bolt action .223's.
H-335 works great. I switched to TAC. It shoots as well, it easier to meter, and not as temperature sensitive.
Good Hunting,
Bob
...pick up a copy of the newest Sierra manual. It has separate loads for the AR and bolt action .223's.
H-335 works great. I switched to TAC. It shoots as well, it easier to meter, and not as temperature sensitive.
Good Hunting,
Bob
nomosendero
Handloader
- Apr 13, 2006
- 536
- 1
No need to crimp, I have shot an AR a good deal & know many others that do. Yes to fl resize & trim.
While I have to admit I prefer the AK rifle platform :roll: I too just bought an AR only because I got it real cheap.
I'm loading 55 gr FMJs with 26 grs BLC2 and getting sub MOA groups out of a 16 in lightweight 1/9 barrel. The biggest hurdle I see in my personal rifle is the trigger.
I've got a few buddies in various law enforcement agencies that have given me an ample supply of Fed brass with crimped primers.
Removing the crimp is the biggest PITA and I will eventually buy a primer pocket swager (if I keep the rifle rather than buy a 5.45x39 AK as a plinker)
I FL size them,trim them and crimp every one.I am loading bullets with a cannelure though.
Howard
I'm loading 55 gr FMJs with 26 grs BLC2 and getting sub MOA groups out of a 16 in lightweight 1/9 barrel. The biggest hurdle I see in my personal rifle is the trigger.
I've got a few buddies in various law enforcement agencies that have given me an ample supply of Fed brass with crimped primers.
Removing the crimp is the biggest PITA and I will eventually buy a primer pocket swager (if I keep the rifle rather than buy a 5.45x39 AK as a plinker)
I FL size them,trim them and crimp every one.I am loading bullets with a cannelure though.
Howard
C.Smith
Handloader
- Oct 11, 2006
- 1,411
- 0
I forked out the money for Dillons super swage 600 to remove military crimps, what a time saver. I read how all the other tools work and they sound like too much. Spendy up front but worht it.
Is Tac a dirty burning powder?
Corey
Is Tac a dirty burning powder?
Corey
Divernhunter
Handloader
- Apr 1, 2009
- 812
- 172
I have used many different reamer/swaging tools but the Dillon beats them all.
