.277 130 Accubond

Page 42 of the Nosler Reloading Guide gives an overview of partial neck sizing. Read this summary to get a feel not only for what you might do, but when to avoid it.
 
Dear DrMike:
I got the page 42 about the topic.
I should mark the shoulder and neck so that when neck sizing with full size die , it shows it's effects.Do I ?

And I got this fact that there must be a space in between die head and head shoulder ( 1.5-2.5) for partial neck sizing with FL die?
Please correct me.
Bests
Rami
 
Rami, you are looking for .0015-.003 from a fired case when you are partial full length sizing. Get a good set of Headspace measuring gauges and it is pretty easy to set up your dies.
 
Great .SemperFidelis.
Thanks , I got the point.
only that much will be partial neck size with Full Die?
Bests
Rami
 
Yes sir. You need to measure the case shoulder datum. Adjust the sizing die to just bump that shoulder.

Larry Will makes a nice digital headspace gauge as does Hornady. It should still chamber freely but brass life should go through the roof.
 
Dear Semper Fidelis :
To be frank I have no head space gauge or any other measurement it this regards.
But I will mark the shoulder and set the full die as you and Mr. Dr.Mike mentioned.
I will try just a very tiny touching of die in shoulder lets say 0.003.
And I will do it as Nosler Partial full sizing to reach a good neck size.
my neck Die is RCBS and Full Die is Redding.
I hope I can manage it.
Thanking you all
Rami
 
rami270,

I know it seems intimidating, and more so when there is no one close by to look over your shoulder. You always have people here such as Scotty who are willing to take time to assess what you tell us you have done. My advice, just do it. You have the basics and you've read the manual. You will do fine, so long as you work within the parameters provided in the Nosler guide. Set the die to just touch the shell holder. Size your case and see if it chambers freely. If not, turn the die in one quarter turn and check chambering once again. Do this until your case chambers freely. That will be sufficient to accomplish what you are attempting to do.
 
Dr.Mike:
To be as a freshman in reloading and not possible to buy or substitute with new one of any kind of reloading components and kits I must be careful of my tools Sir.
I got many instructions here and All are perfect and complete.
I don't care about cases I have 200 ones , but Dies each around 200-300 USD here and no access to find to buy then I think you will not punish me ...
Those nice words at the end is clear to me Sir and I apologize for this, to be frank I have to be extra careful and obsessive with the tools...
I will do and obey all your advice.
Sincerely Yours
Rami
 
I do understand your dilemma, and I do understand the cost when materials are imported. There is no apology required as you are trying to learn. I believe the good people that post here are all in agreement that we want to see you succeed in producing good ammunition for your .270 Winchester. Go in small increments sizing your case as I outlined, chamber the case each time, until it chambers smoothly.
 
Dear DrMike And all other good Guys:

I finish the job and last night I started partial neck sizing with FL Die and at first I used some useless old cases to find the way and after 3 sizing I can manage it I also marked the shoulder to know the exact place of touching of die and it was ok.
I only found that 0.01--0.03 mm changes when doing with neck size Die.
I will test in the field this week for 200-250 and 300 Meters and I will let you know the result.
I think Nosler will do the best in my rifle with comparison with Sierra or Hornady.

Thanks so much DrMike and SEMPER FIDELIS for all advice and comments me.

All The Best
Rami
 
I would buy a gauge set if you are going to partially resize. You will never know where you are or how much you have moved, needed to move et cetera without a gauge and dial indicator. The RCBS or Hornady sets are about $100. The Larry Whitlow is a little more.
 
rami270,

You'll do just fine. Take manageable steps, just as you are doing and you will work up a fine load.
 
Hi there All:
As I promised I 've just got my groups with AB 130 grins with 45 gr. charge IMR 4895 with about 2850 Fps. Velocity in 200 - 250 and 300 Meters...
I got very good result with Nosler wrt. Sierra Pro hunter as Nosler really is a ballistic and a hunting bullet suitable for long ranges.
My group size in 300 M is 3.5' , in 250 2.5' and in 200 about 2'.
I gave special thanks to all specially Dear DrMike my teacher here as a real professor to give related comments and advices.
I have some questions about and I am sure you can bare my basic and elementary questions :
1- the finishing shooting steps and guidelines in shooting no matter target of hunting ?
I mean triggering and breathing and so on Especially triggering .

2- how many shots are common in Target Shooting 3 shots or 5 shots?
3- I understand that the Nosler AB bullet is very sensitive to wind and velocity ; whenever a very wind blows, it changes the group size while it is not that much in Sierra and also velocity , with a 20-40FPs. high velocity it flies very good and groups are better than low velocity.
I appreciated of you all and also Nosler Co. to produce such a perfect bullet.
Best Regards
Rami
 
An old adage says that three shots test the rifle and five shots test the shooter. To truly know what a load does in a given rifle, the more shots the greater the information. Testing for hunting loads, I'm content with three shot groups. However, I will shoot those groups at least three times (each on a separate outing) before I draw a conclusion.

Your groups are quite good, so you have nothing of which to be ashamed with those. You are to be congratulated for developing a good load. As you shoot more, your groups should be tighter. When you get a chance, give us a picture of your targets. I'm sure many would be appreciative of such.

Actually, the Nosler Ballistic Tip or AccuBond is no more sensitive to wind currents than are Sierra Game King bullets; either is subject to being moved by wind. Learning to dope the wind is a task that must be worked on constantly. It means learning to read the direction the wind is blowing, the velocity of the wind and whether it is gusting or blowing steadily. Learn to watch grasses and leaves as they move at various distances to gain some appreciation of what the wind is doing.
 
Thank so much DrMike.
I will do send some Pics. asap.
But Sir you did not explain to me the Finishing stage in shooting I mean the steps before triggering .
Still I think of it and sometimes I think the trigger is adjusted for 100Kgs Instead of 500grams...
I did not push the trigger I force it , I press it while it is very sensitive.
Kind to Me and please let me know about this stage also.
I remain...
Rami
 
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