30-06 BAR 18.5" barrel Oryx 180

[badaxeriverman]

The oxyx bullets have been non existent...where did you find them?

I had some .358 that were out of spec by .002 to .004 undersized. They ended up refunding me becuause every bullet acxept for 2 sizes were out of stock on the Oryx website. Figured they went belly up.

Imo any bullet in a 180 grain weight in the 30-06 will work great for bear.

Ive seen bear shot with 180 grain core locts, ballistic tips, scirroccos, and partions....they all kill bear.


Welcome aboard.

 

[Chesty Puller]

Oh man bad range day, I didnt bother with the target left it at the range really wet and if you werent with me shooting it would make no since to ya haha. Best group on the 180gr Oryx seated at -.030 with h4350 was about a 3.5 in vertical group 55.0 gr at about 2530 fps average . Thinking more powder do to the vertical mess going on.
Whats the plan? Gonna bump up the powder and try seating back to like -.050 off for one group and -.010 off on the other group. Im thinking it will like them deeper. Expect to get a bit more pressure but primers and brass although beat up by them semi auto action looked great. Gonna keep on keeping on find something, that works with these.

 

[badaxeriverman]

Verticle usually means the barrel is stressed...not floated. Up and down usually means my optic came loose and sliding forward with each shot from recoil.

Id check to see if your forend is touching the barrel. Id also make sure its tight. I had poor accuracy like you did with my 7600 in 35 whelen till i realized my pump was touching the barrel. Also the barrel was loose. I opened up the pump action till the barrel was floated and blue loct tited the barrel nut and slide tube in place. It went from 4" plug groups to the group in my Avatar after floating and loct tite.

 

[Chesty Puller]

The oxyx bullets have been non existent...whwre did you find them?

I had some .358 that were out of spec by .002 to .004 undersized. They ended up refunding me becuause every bullet acxept for 2 sizes were out of stock on the Oryx website. Figured they went belly up.

Imo any bullet in a 180 grain weight in the 30-06 will work great for bear.

Ive seen bear shot with 180 grain core locts, ballistic tips, scirroccos, and partions....they all kill bear.


Welcome aboard.

Raven Rock Preciesion like $45 for 100 bullets got 2boxes. Lots of little gems there.

 

[Chesty Puller]

verticle usually means the barrel is streesed...not floated. Up and down usually means my optic came loose and sliding forward with each shot from recoil.

Checked optic to be good also shot a factory rd I use in it after my groups and it was center. It was up and down tightened with more velosity/powder but what you thinking?

 

[Chesty Puller]

My forend is definatly favoing one side and could be part of it. Its been a fussy rifle with factory stuff just flat hates alot of stuff.

 

[badaxeriverman]

I would remove the fore end and open the channel up till it floats. It will never shoot acceptable groups imo till its floated.

 

[Chesty Puller]

I would remove the fore end and open the channel up till it floats. It will never shoot acceptable groups imo till its floated.

Yes, I'm thinking I just drop it at the local Smith and see what he can do for me during the week. Get back on it in the weekend. Hes pretty fast.

 

[wvbuckbuster]

My forend is definatly favoing one side and could be part of it. Its been a fussy rifle with factory stuff just flat hates alot of stuff.

It is possible that you just haven't found what it likes so far. May not like this bullet you're loading. Might try different powder. Just a suggestion but when trying, switching components switch one at a time. Stay with same bullet just try different powders. Then different bullet with different powders again. It can be a process but rewarding in the end. Also, might try seating at 20 thousand off the lands and go up to what length the magazine will allow. Just some things to try. My friends BAR isn't a match winner but not a thing hitter either. Didn't do much trial and error just found a load that shot about 1.5-1.8-inch group.

 

[Chesty Puller]

It is possible that you just haven't found what it likes so far. May not like this bullet you're loading. Might try different powder. Just a suggestion but when trying, switching components switch one at a time. Stay with same bullet just try different powders. Then different bullet with different powders again. It can be a process but rewarding in the end. Also, might try seating at 20 thousand off the lands and go up to what length the magazine will allow. Just some things to try. My friends BAR isn't a match winner but not a thing hitter either. Didn't do much trial and error just found a load that shot about 1.5-1.8-inch group.

1.5 would be good. Was getting about 2MOA generally about 1POA with factory nosler trophy grade AccuBond 180s.
Next time I will shoot a full group with my factory rounds as a standard make sure nothing funny going on. Yes I agree 1 move at a time. I wont be able to shoot til weekend but will load a few up.

 

[Chesty Puller]

*Update loaded up some rds starting at 55.5 gr today working up to 56.3 grain of h4350 again. Going to run 4 groups first being with my factory rds that shoot about 1.5-2 moa as a standard make sure all is well. Then work up to 56.3 gr. These are all seated at -.055 today. Start at same amount of powder 55.5 gr I shot last range day but seated back further see if it improves with deeper seat. Should be pushing close to 2600 at that seat and powder as last time seated at -.030 was about 2570fps. I am using cci lrm primers (no change), Norma brass (this is a change), h4350 powder, and I'm crossing my fingers there is better results or at least something positive to build off of.

 

[badaxeriverman]

...you can always try a lee factory collet crimp on them

 

[Chesty Puller]

...you can always try a lee factory collet crimp on them

I dont have one, and I was kinda wondering if nessary? I did cycle a round in and out a few times and checked datum points after and saw no move in seat shoulder or OAL. Im unfimular with that operation and will read up a bit on it. My biggest concern today is my fore stock which we spoke about before. I can see it is clearly favoring maybe even touching one side.

 

[badaxeriverman]

Your preference but it’s a good piece of mind for anything semi automatic. Imo it’s the best crimp on the planet and it’ll probably only cost you 20 bucks for the die. I don’t do it in my AR 15s but I use the lee factory collet crimp dies for my AR tens and anything semi auto. I also use it in my 35 Rems and 35 Whelen pumpers…just because. If you have inconsistent neck tension to me, it helps tighten up the groups. When I was loading cast bullets in my 77/44 it took me from fist size groups at 100 yards to all touching with the exact same load. Only thing changed was my crimp style.

Is it needed for yours probably not but it’s a good piece of mind for a $20 die.

If you still don’t get good groups, I would tell you to try different bullet.

…180 grain ballistic tips shoot tight in my 30-06’s and so do handloaded core locts.

 

[badaxeriverman]

I also wouldn’t waste any more ladder tests until you figure out how to get that fore end so it’s not touching the barrel.

I grabbed my 7600 pump. I wiggled it around while I was holding it while gently twisting the pump back back-and-forth. It moved to the point where it would touch one side my barrel. It wasn’t touching it until I picked it up and held it or twisted it almost 0 force. Removed it and sanded the channel. Applied a bunch of true oil to reseal the inside of it. I also was taught by a gunsmith to hold the pump firmly in the opposite direction when tightening the nut that holds the pump in place. If not it will move in the direction of the way the is tightened. It fixed giant groups to all touching… besides the barrel that kept coming loose as well. I loctite the pump slide threads to the receiver and the pump nut in place.

I went from not hitting paper at 100 yards to my avatar group after doing the above.

I would tell you I get a piece of cardboard business card and slide it from the front to the end between the front barrel channel to your receiver and see if it’s touching anywhere. If a business card stops or wedges in place it’s too tight. That’s where you need to figure out how to relieve it.

 

[Chesty Puller]

I also wouldn’t waste any more ladder tests until you figure out how to get that fore end so it’s not touching the barrel.

I grabbed my 7600 pump. I wiggled it around while I was holding it while gently twisting the pump back back-and-forth. It moved to the point where it would touch one side my barrel. It wasn’t touching it until I picked it up and held it or twisted it almost 0 force. Removed it and sanded the channel. Applied a bunch of true oil to reseal the inside of it. I also was taught by a gunsmith to hold the pump firmly in the opposite direction when tightening the nut that holds the pump in place. If not it will move in the direction of the way the is tightened. It fixed giant groups to all touching… besides the barrel that kept coming loose as well. I loctite the pump slide threads to the receiver and the pump nut in place.

I went from not hitting paper at 100 yards to my avatar group after doing the above.

I would tell you I get a piece of cardboard business card and slide it from the front to the end between the front barrel channel to your receiver and see if it’s touching anywhere. If a business card stops or wedges in place it’s too tight. That’s where you need to figure out how to relieve it.

I know it wont pass the card test. I spoke with Wolf Arms in Vernonia, said he will check it out for me today. Also said he'd be happy to help with the warranty if need be. Real good people there. Its been like that since day one the sling/forend nut had always been off time as well. Which really frustrated me. Be nice to get it all squared up as it should be. Im pretty sure something simple, but I dont want to do anything before he looks at it as it can sit straight until torque is applied pushing nut againt counter sink and shifts forestock. It was drill slightly off.

 

[Chesty Puller]

Slight game delay

 

[badaxeriverman]

I know it wont pass the card test. I spoke with Wolf Arms in Vernonia, said he will check it out for me today. Also said he'd be happy to help with the warranty if need be. Real good people there. Its been like that since day one the sling/forend nut had always been off time as well. Which really frustrated me. Be nice to get it all squared up as it should be. Im pretty sure something simple, but I dont want to do anything before he looks at it as it can sit straight until torque is applied pushing nut againt counter sink and shifts forestock. It was drill slightly off.

The fore end "not floated and stress releaved" is not going to be a warranty issue. They will end up charging you $80 to a $100 plus dollars for something will take 20 mi or less of tinkering. Look up some youtube videos on how to dissasmeble and releave the stock. If you can reload you sure can perform this simple project yourself. Remington sells their guns with their stocks pressure bedded and all still touching one side. With mass produced "over the counter" guns its up to owner, or pay a confident gunsmith, to make them shoot more accurately. I bet every Browning Bar on the planet leaves the factory with the forend touching the barrel and not floated.

 

[badaxeriverman]

From what I just researched most Bar's are 2.5 moa, 100 yard guns out of the box on average. Not meant for benchrest accuracy. I also read the forend bolts to the barrel. So in therory youll never be able to properly float it. If your looking for a sub moa gun you are not going to be happy with your Bar. Still worth trying to releave the barrel on the one side and try again. I am not a fan of big game hunting with semi autos myself. You probably could get a good price on trade for a more accurate bolt or pump gun. My 7600 pumps in 30-06, 35 Rem, and 35 whelen will all shoot hand loads groups that touch at 100 yards. IMO I dont think your bar is capable of consistently tight groups.

 

[Chesty Puller]

Got it pretty well center actaully with out putting a twist in it by a little back and forth loosen tightening top allen head and forescrew. The fore screw is attach to block so not truly a floated barrel. Is what you are saying is even every thing so the upper barrel sides no touch correct? Cause I do have that now. The barrel is possibly touching stock near the reciever.