30-06 brass re-sizing to 35 Whelen

[orchemo]

I read where people run their 30-06 brass through a 35 Whelen die with lube and the neck up to the 24 casing. I ran twelve 30-06 brass through my new RCBS dies tonight and only got 5 brass to neck to 35 cailber. All the others the neck split.

Any tips?

Orchemo

 

[257 Ackley]

A couple questions:
What lube are you using...
What part of the case are you lubing...
Is this new brass or has it been fired several times in an 06' chamber...

I have a 338-06, not the Whelen, but am able to run a standard case into the die without having to do anything special. I have only used Nosler 30-06 brass (new) or once fired winchester brass for this chambering. Keep the lube off the shoulder and use a graphite lube inside the neck of the cartridge. If cases have been fired several times in a 30-06 chamber, they may be work-hardened and need to be annealed.

 

[DrMike]

Had the brass been worked previously? Is it possible that it was becoming brittle due to work hardening? Alternatively, you may need to work in stages, first expanding the neck with a .338 expander mandrel and then neck up. I would recommend Imperial Sizing Wax and Imperial Application Media as lubricants.

 

[orchemo]

Used brass....probably once or twice fired in an '06.

I was using one-shot case lube and trying to spray some down inside the neck.

Will try better lube. Thanks for the recommendations.

Eric

 

[Elkman]

I have already been beat to the answer. But to reinforce !

Imperial sizing wax to me is like butter on bread, a must have on any bench. Anneal the cases prior to sizing, those are the only cases have have ever felt the need to anneal. If you have a 338 die it wouldn't hurt but I never lost any when I sized mine. I also think that Winchester cases do better.

:grin: "however I am going to do 50 for my STW real shortly"

 

[rick smith]

I size 221 fireball to 300 Whisper in one pass. Using new Rem brass I dip the necks to the shoulder in Imperial die wax and have a tapered expander ball in the die. After sizing, I throw them in the vib cleaner to remove the Imperial.Rick.

 

[JD338]

DrMike is spot on. Imperial Sizing Wax is excellent. I recommend starting with new brass for the 35 Whelen.

JD338

 

[Ridge_Runner]

anneal the necks, ya may wanna go up in 2 steps, 30 to 32 0r 33, then 35. I use 5 steps to get 338 lapua cases down to 7mm.
RR

 

[rjm158]

Orchemo, I'm needed to do the same thing you are but I don't have the experience/equipment to anneal cases.

I went to one of my local gunshops today and found a box of Winchester once fired brass. I took it home, chamfered the case mouths, then lubed the bodies with RCBS case lube. I used a q-tip to put some of the lube into the case neck interior and then ran them through the sizer die.

I had one case that had a tiny hairline split at the case mouth and another that split horribly. I think the horrible one was because I didn't get enough lube in it. I trashed both.

I also had some old brass that I experimented with first before working with the "good" stuff. I sized 4 or 5 and had no splits, just some dents on the shoulder. I think those would have popped out if they were fired, however.

I checked the new 35 Whelen cases in my rifle and they fit fantastic.

Ron

 

[Elkman]

rjm158
Orchemo, I'm needed to do the same thing you are but I don't have the experience/equipment to anneal cases.

I used a cake pan and a a cheapo propane torch from the hardware store. A smooth even touch and tip them over as soon as they start coloring worked for me.

 

[PJGunner]

I load for three .35 Whelen rifles. he custom mauser gets the nice factory brass, the Remington 700 and Ruger M77 gr. reformed GI brass. The Remington gets LC brass and the Ruger gets Korean 06 brass stamped PS8. Haven't had a neck split yet.
I lube the cases well with the Imperial sizing wax and apply it generously inside the neck with a Q-tip.
I anneal after every fifth reloading. I hold the case with two fingers and apply the heat to the neck and shoulder of the case, twirling it around while applying heat. When it gets a bit uncomforable to hold the case, I drop it into the water.
Another method is place the brass in a container of water with the water covering about two thirds of the case. Apply the heat and tip over into the water. In either method, try to not overheat the brass as it will come out too soft, thus ruining the case. You'll get it right after a few tries.
I have one question that I see no one else has asked. Is your expander plug tapered? Some earlier .35 Whelen and .358 Win. sizing dies came with an expander that was not tapered and those split cases on a regular basis. I had to order a tapered plug from RCBS for two sets of my dies. FWIW, each rifle has it's own set of loading dies. The custom is set up for the Barnes 225 gr. TSX, the Remington for 250 gr. bullets and the Ruger is the cast bullet shooter, exclusively.
Cgheck that expander plug.
Paul B.

 

[Ridge_Runner]

my annealing method,
put on a thin pair of gloves, light a torch that uses map gas, pick up a case hold the point of the flame on the shoulder, slowly spin it, when its too hot to hold any more, pitch it in a pan of water or a dry bucket, makes no difference, takes around 2o sec per case for big ones. you want it between changing color and starting to glow.
RR

 

[rick smith]

Hornady makes a paint on heat sensitive liquid that will help you anneal cases, just follow the simple instructions.Rick.

 

[FOTIS]

If you have a set of 338 Win Mag dies pass them through the expander one time. Easier on the press and brass.

 

[wvchevy3]

Eric i use Redding Dies, and my resizing die has a nice tapered size button. All i use is case lube and have never split a neck(granted my 30/06 cases have only been shot once or twice). Lee

 

[orchemo]

Thanks for the feedback. I have new RCBS dies. Not sure what the taper is, but I emailed RCBS.

I used my 338 ME dies to enpand the next first, then the 35 W dies. Had a couple split, but they are old brass.

Will get some imperal wax with my next Midway or Natchez order.

I loaded up 50 round of Speer 220 FP with RL-15 for breaking in my new Remington 750. Took the trigger group out of the rifle and cleaned out all the factory grease. To the range next week.

I have about 150 of the Speer 220 gr FP to break the rifle in, then move onto 250 gr Speer Hot Core and Partitions.

Cheers

 

[SJB358]

Thanks for the feedback. I have new RCBS dies. Not sure what the taper is, but I emailed RCBS.

I used my 338 ME dies to enpand the next first, then the 35 W dies. Had a couple split, but they are old brass.

Will get some imperal wax with my next Midway or Natchez order.

I loaded up 50 round of Speer 220 FP with RL-15 for breaking in my new Remington 750. Took the trigger group out of the rifle and cleaned out all the factory grease. To the range next week.

I have about 150 of the Speer 220 gr FP to break the rifle in, then move onto 250 gr Speer Hot Core and Partitions.

Cheers

I think those Speer 220's with RL15 would be pretty super in your 35 Whelen buddy. They are tough nuts and I would be your getting 2500-2600 pretty easily. Plenty flat for deer hunting out to 300. I think you are right on with the 250gr Speer or PT. Both of them are the same in my eyes. They are solid bullets that are really accurate in my Whelen and both seem to perform really well with RL15. Looking forward to seeing how your right likes em. Scotty

 

[gerry]

I agree with Scotty on the Speer 220 gr bullet they are good tough bullets I did a bullet test with them years ago but lost the slug somewhere on the way, from what I remember of them I wouldn't hesitate shooting anything from deer to moose with them. Make sure you post some range results for us to see, thanks.

 

[SJB358]

I agree with Scotty on the Speer 220 gr bullet they are good tough bullets I did a bullet test with them years ago but lost the slug somewhere on the way, from what I remember of them I wouldn't hesitate shooting anything from deer to moose with them. Make sure you post some range results for us to see, thanks.

I have only taken one animal with them, a decent sized WT in NY with my 358. Had perfect performance to me. Nice holes in and out with very little meat damage. Thinking it would be plenty for any elk in the 358 or Whelen like you said Gerry. Scotty

 

[DrMike]

I know that the Speer 220 grain FN is sufficiently tough to take down a grizzly. Launched at the leisurely speed of 2400 fps from a Model 94 chambered in .356, the first bullet broke both shoulders of a large bore and put him down for the count. I wasn't finished shooting, however, as I still had five rounds loaded. I recovered one bullet and two cores. The one bullet recovered had passed through the hump on the back and travelled down the left leg where it was recovered under the left front paw. It was pretty impressive performance.