30-30, 257 Bee and 358 BLR

[FOTIS]

Range day today. Overall very pleased.

The 30-30 started life as a 24" XLR which was cut down to 21" and recrowned.

The 257 Bee is a Ultra lite weight factory gun which was skim-bedded
The 358 is a steel receiver BLR factory.

BTW the 30-30 is SHORTER overall than the 20" BLR!

This is what they did today.

 

[FOTIS]

the 30-30 Marlin





The 257 bee

 

[ethmoid1999]

Looks like RL 26 on the 257 Weatherby. I have an Accumark in the safe. Been pissed at it for fifteen years. Maybe I need to try RL 26.

The others looked good.

 

[FOTIS]

Skim bed it!!!!! Then torque it to 50 inch LBS

 

[FOTIS]

I'll tell you man that reloader 26 is definitely pixie dust

 

[ethmoid1999]

Fotis, what is skim bedding? Thanks, Mike

 

[FOTIS]

Basically a little bedding compound in the recoil mortice and a little chamber support. This will stop the action from moving. All new wbies have this. The old ones do not at least the accumarks and Ultra light weights.

Takes me about 5 minutes and I use JB Weld. Very easy!

 

[1100 Remington Man]

As usual FOTIS you do not disappoint, nice shooting. I really like that .257 Weatherby.
Weatherby is a Rifle I always wanted to try but have not gotten around to.

 

[Cleveland48]

Basically a little bedding compound in the recoil mortice and a little chamber support. This will stop the action from moving. All new wbies have this. The old ones do not at least the accumarks and Ultra light weights.

Takes me about 5 minutes and I use JB Weld. Very easy!

I also use JB weld for skim bedding fotis. I’ve done three rifle with JB weld and three with acraglass gel. I ended up liking JB weld the best. Those are all great shooting rifles by the way!


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[FOTIS]

Like I said the 21" barrelled 30-30 is a bit shorter than the 20" BLR

 

[FOTIS]

Basically a little bedding compound in the recoil mortice and a little chamber support. This will stop the action from moving. All new wbies have this. The old ones do not at least the accumarks and Ultra light weights.

Takes me about 5 minutes and I use JB Weld. Very easy!

I also use JB weld for skim bedding fotis. I’ve done three rifle with JB weld and three with acraglass gel. I ended up liking JB weld the best. Those are all great shooting rifles by the way!


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Thank you I love JB weld. Works really well. By the way---well worth the watch....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XObmZIbHOzY

 

[ShadeTree]

Some good looking guns Fotis. I use JB weld also for any bedding jobs. Despite all the hype with some of the other epoxy bedding compounds, if you read up on the specs JB weld generally is equal too in some points, and exceeds in other points, in tensile, shear, and crush strength. It is good stuff if used within its limits and has been for a long time. Providing a hard and solid platform for an action is certainly within it's limits.

 

[Dr. Vette]

I've used Devcon 10110 for most of my bedding jobs, and it works well.

I've used the epoxy from Score Hi for a couple of rifles, and recently for some radiator repair. :grin: It's not as thick as Devcon so to work it you have to do things a bit differently.

 

[Divernhunter]

What do you use as a release agent?

 

[FOTIS]

Kiwi neutral shoe polish or KY jelly

 

[Cleveland48]

Kiwi neutral shoe polish or KY jelly

I’ve always used the kiwi neutral shoe polish with JB weld. Never even thought of KY jelly though.


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[ShadeTree]

Kiwi neutral shoe polish or KY jelly

I’ve always used the kiwi neutral shoe polish with JB weld. Never even thought of KY jelly though.


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Pretty much anything that is wax or oil based will work as a non stick barrier between the epoxy and metal parts. I wouldn't be afraid at all to use floor wax, mineral oil, etc. I wiped everything down with either vegetable oil or mineral oil the last time (cant remember) and had no problems with anything bonding to the metal and getting it back apart.

That said it's hard to go wrong with using the kiwi shoe polish simply because of the amount of people that have been using it successfully for so long.

 

[ethmoid1999]

Fotis, thank you. I will try this. It can't hurt for sure. I think my particular rifle is also off center in the stock. I bought it 'new' off Gunbroker but I believe it was a used rifle. The barrel lays in the barrel channel way to the right. I wonder if it was a factory second or something. I was disappointed that Weatherby would release a rifle with that flaw. Thank you again, Mike.

 

[FOTIS]

OK after adding release agent to all to parts that will come in contact, pour the epoxy in the recoil mortice and screw the action in at 50 inch lbs. After she dries up (24 hours) ensure nothing touches the barrel . If it does remove it.

 

[Dr. Vette]

OK after adding release agent to all to parts that will come in contact, pour the epoxy in the recoil mortice and screw the action in at 50 inch lbs. After she dries up (24 hours) ensure nothing touches the barrel . If it does remove it.

You made me wince.
I would never tighten one down when bedding.

I would recommend reading:

http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

or my thoughts if anyone wishes:
https://www.longrangehunting.com/thread ... ost-899007