30-378...need input immediately please and thx

300WSM

Handloader
Dec 24, 2011
1,147
743
I had asked this before to some of the 30-378 shooters and if it was answered...apologies...if I didn't see it...

I'm ready to start working on some precision loads. I've got brass accumulated shooting factory and just buying new brass...

THE QUESTION...

With WBY and the free bore they do...
How far away from the lands are you seating the bullet.
OAL means nothing here as every different bullet will present a different length based on my ogive gauge

BUT...

As a rule on the 30-378....
How far, OR CLOSE, are you seating the bullets...
I will obviously tweak this to tighten up the accuracy...

I'm not concerned about magazine length as this will only be shot as a single...at least at this point in time but with the freebore something touching the lands might look rather silly loaded in the case...???

Moreover I don't want to have any pressure issues and many things can cause a pressure spike seating depth being one of them.

Thank you
 
Just FYI

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I'm not concerned about magazine length as this will only be shot as a single...at least at this point in time but with the freebore something touching the lands might look rather silly loaded in the case...???
What bullets are looking to use? The trade off of running long loaded rounds in the Mark V is you have to pull the bolt to unload a live round. Anything under 200grs is best to start at the bullet manufacturing COAL.
 
i really appreciate that....and what I was looking for...

That is utterly incredible..the .460 and the 378 @ over 3/4 of an inch of free bore.

I know those are the two biggest baddest regularly made sporter type rifles in lieu of any daisy chain cartridge ladder.
3/4 of an inch.
W O W
 
What bullets are looking to use? The trade off of running long loaded rounds in the Mark V is you have to pull the bolt to unload a live round. Anything under 200grs is best to start at the bullet manufacturing COAL.
I have a plethora I am wanting to try...

That said the charts above are most helpful!

So far I have loaded 225 gr eldm bullets at the published coal

and I have shot factory rounds just to obtain brass...

That said...
as a side note the WBY 165 grain Ballistic tip ammo was making one ragged hole.

I have only ever seen that with one other type of factory offering rifle combo
Remington corelokt of all ammo with a 180 grain round nose shootnig out of a Mohawk in 308

Tiny bbl, the ugliest looking 308 cartridge with that 180 RN bullet...
yet it just put one hole into another one...over and over and over

So I am pleased with the accuracy so far with the King Kong...looks very promising early on...
Bullets...
I have ready to try...
168 EldM
168 Nosler Ballistic silvertip
176 ATIP match
several 180's
190's
225's
 
What bullets are looking to use? The trade off of running long loaded rounds in the Mark V is you have to pull the bolt to unload a live round. Anything under 200grs is best to start at the bullet manufacturing COAL.
How long is the mag in the MK5? Just wondering as I think in my sons MK5 300 Wby I loaded .020 under mag length for function and worked it from there. Seems like it has worked fine.
 
How long is the mag in the MK5? Just wondering as I think in my sons MK5 300 Wby I loaded .020 under mag length for function and worked it from there. Seems like it has worked fine.
IMG_5522.jpeg
Mag box out if my 416 is 3.820”
 
So...
To the wby shooters on this thread....

Are you trying to hit the free bore window area and play around with that a few thosabdths out or in...

I'm only asking this because Roy had a reason for his free bore to hit the speeds he was seeking thus...

Has anyone found the impact of less to the land distance (freebore) and velocity.
in other words if I drop my FB from .361 approximately and seat it .125 thousandth closer am I going to lose speed?

Is it significant? Negligible?

Pressure effects?
 
The longer you seat, the bigger the case space is, so you negate any effects of being closer. And .125 “close” aint really close enough to matter in regards to pressure. It’s still a virtual highway to let that bullet get started. You will need larger charges to get book speeds.
 
Without burning up a barrel developing loads start first at the bullet manufacturing COAL. If that doesn’t satisfy then move out to mag length.
I sized with Redding S-bushing die for quite some time and that would lead to doughnuts. With the 230gr Hybrids I would seat to the doughnut and call that my COAL.
On my current barrel it is throated a tad longer due to the length of the 250gr A-tip to seat at the case/neck juncture.
One has to be careful around rebarreled Wbys is some have very little freebore. My 340Wby is cut to 0.250” vs 0.373” to be able to tune with seating depth.
 
Without burning up a barrel developing loads start first at the bullet manufacturing COAL. If that doesn’t satisfy then move out to mag length.
I sized with Redding S-bushing die for quite some time and that would lead to doughnuts. With the 230gr Hybrids I would seat to the doughnut and call that my COAL.
On my current barrel it is throated a tad longer due to the length of the 250gr A-tip to seat at the case/neck juncture.
One has to be careful around rebarreled Wbys is some have very little freebore. My 340Wby is cut to 0.250” vs 0.373” to be able to tune with seating depth.
I am trying to learn as much as I can about this cartridge especially with the frigid temps at present. Shooting is miserable right now so it's a lot of skull sessions and loading things for inventory.

That said I am not using a bushing die, nor necking up or down my brass.
I've only loaded a handful of rounds so far as I still have some factory that needs shot to obtain the brass...again the weather is not kind at present...

Of the loads I have made so far they have all been at book coal.
That said with the freebore chart I will be interested to see how close or far away some of the published coal's are to the actual WBY listed Free bore with the bullet used and its published coal.
Plus my gun itself and where that lies. Perhaps WBY is spot on with their machining.

RIght now I am working with us869 powder. My goal is to get this the flattest as possible for some 1000 yard shots and then one mile.

We will see where I am. IF THE WEATHER EVER COMES BACK TO SOMETHING RESPECTABLE I will have the time to get the chrono set up and see some of my real velocities and accuracy @ 1, 3, 6 and 1k
 
Just my humble opinion, but if you plan on shooting any amount, a set of RCBS Matchmaster or Redding S FL sizing dies are worth every penny in brass life. They’ll allow you to properly apply a slight shoulder bump and a couple bushings will help you really dial in your neck tension while extending, what I assume is very expensive brass. Having arrow straight rounds will mean a whole lot more than where the bullets engage the lands within reason and those two die sets really assist in making straight ammo that minimizes working your brass.
 
I am trying to learn as much as I can about this cartridge especially with the frigid temps at present. Shooting is miserable right now so it's a lot of skull sessions and loading things for inventory.

That said I am not using a bushing die, nor necking up or down my brass.
I've only loaded a handful of rounds so far as I still have some factory that needs shot to obtain the brass...again the weather is not kind at present...

Of the loads I have made so far they have all been at book coal.
That said with the freebore chart I will be interested to see how close or far away some of the published coal's are to the actual WBY listed Free bore with the bullet used and its published coal.
Plus my gun itself and where that lies. Perhaps WBY is spot on with their machining.

RIght now I am working with us869 powder. My goal is to get this the flattest as possible for some 1000 yard shots and then one mile.

We will see where I am. IF THE WEATHER EVER COMES BACK TO SOMETHING RESPECTABLE I will have the time to get the chrono set up and see some of my real velocities and accuracy @ 1, 3, 6 and 1k
 
Just my humble opinion, but if you plan on shooting any amount, a set of RCBS Matchmaster or Redding S FL sizing dies are worth every penny in brass life. They’ll allow you to properly apply a slight shoulder bump and a couple bushings will help you really dial in your neck tension while extending, what I assume is very expensive brass. Having arrow straight rounds will mean a whole lot more than where the bullets engage the lands within reason and those two die sets really assist in making straight ammo that minimizes working your brass.
I've seen those and may order those....
I have hornady special seater for the ATips ...and H's seater die...

But we will see where all this goes.

I have approximately 20 rounds out of this thing so far and at least another 20-30 factory that needs shot for the cases.

The free bore data really helped me with information I needed for seating length.
I have concentricity tools to help with being square

That all said...
Using those dies contribute how much more life to a case?
The subject round itself is not exactly case life friendly like my 300wsm's..
Some of my cases have a dozen or more firings from.
That's a180gr bullet around 3100fps.

But this round is king of the jungle...we will see.
It's powerful and likes to eat components

Let me know how much more life you've seen with the 30-378 using either of the dies you've listed

Thx
 
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