Bargain Savage/Stevens build?

[BretN]

Even though I've never been a Savage guy, I can't seem to shake the idea of putting together my own gun from a donor savage. There happens to be a 30-06 at a local gun shop for $225. Also have looked at the Remington 700 long range, but can't picture myself lugging a 10+ pound rifle around.

Any reason I can't buy the Savage 30-06 and rebarrel it with a 24" 260 REM or 7mm-08? I know a short action would be preferred, but would it work? Alternatively, I could put on a 6.5x55 barrel, but I didn't see that caliber offered by er shaw through Midway. Appreciate your thoughts on this type of build. Bret

 

[Anonymous]

Bret... you don't mention which Savage action, but I'm assuming a 110.

I don't see any reason it wouldn't work. Unless you're just hung on a .260.... how about a 6.5x06 or a 280? Both feed fine from a LA and perform (more or less) as well or better than their SA counterparts.

The Savage bug has bitten a lot of folks lately, including me. My son's little youth 7-08 is going to turn into a .338FED or .358WIN when he's done with it!

 

[BretN]

Yep, it's just the basic wood stocked 110. The more I think about it, it probably doesn't make sense to run a short action cartridge out of a long action. Although that's exactly what my Tikka does.

I have a .280 already. Anyone here run a 6.5-06? My brother used to have a 264 mag and I regret not buying a Swedish Mauser years ago. That 264 140 grain bullet just hammers deer way out of proportion to it's size. Brass for the 6.5-06 is easy to get and cheap, not as much with the 6.5x284. Thanks for your input.

Bret

 

[WYcoyote]

I did it with a 6.5x.284, not a bargain build, but a Rock Creek barrel. Runs good, like the chambering.
Considered the 6.5-06 too, but wanted the Lapua brass.
I don't think there is a wrong choice between the two.
Be careful, Savage barrel switching is addicting.

 

[Dwh7271]

I've done a few from Savages.
Also run a 6.5-06 and 6.5-06 AI on the way.
Savages are fairly easy to do with the right tools. Barrel vise, action wrench, go-nogo gauges and you're good to go.
Rifle Basix makes good triggers for them that are pretty fairly priced. Stocks, Bell and Carlson, Hogue, McMillan, and on and on.
My normal Savage setup is action, barrel, Sav1 trigger, B and C Medalist full bedding block stock.
As mentioned before most will fit in a long action.
I have 3 SA cartridges in LAs. Works fine, lets you seat long if you want.
Don't discount the 260 AI either. 6.5-284 like ballistics.
Bolt heads are an easy change also.
On the 6.5-06, unless you're hung on head stamps, neck up 25-06 brass and you're good.one pass, you're only going up .007 so it's not a big move. Only concern is if you have a 25-06 and potential confusion. I have a 25-06 and do it like this. I only use Hornady brass for the 6.5. So if its not Hornady then it's for the 25, Hornady then it's 6.5. No confusion. (I do the same thing necking up 22-250 brass for my 250)

Couple of mine...left is 6.5-06, right is 250 AI

 

[jmad_81]

That is how my 280 AI was built. I bought a cheap beat up 110 as well. Sent a dummy round to PacNor and in a few months I had a barrel ready to screw on. Ordered the go/no-go gauges, screwed the barrel on and went shooting. I hunted with it in the original wood stock for a season or two then my amazing wife bought me a McMillan for my birthday on year. It isn't the prettiest rifle in my safe, but it is consistently one of the top two shooters.

It is a fun project that can be added on to for years to come. Good Luck!

 

[Oldtrader3]

My .257 Roberts is built on a full length Browning FN action. This longer action gives me the option of seating longer bullets out to increase velocity and accuracy.

 

[BretN]

Thanks for the input guys. My 280 wears that same green b/c stock. I really do like those meadalist stocks. How long is that barrel?

Looked around online a bit, looks like 6.5x284 brass dies, barrels aren't as hard to come by as I thought. Any feeding problems with 6.5x284? Was the magazine altered at all?

Midway has a 338-06 kit for $199. That might be fun too, but I'm not real likely to draw one of the 7 elk tags up for draw in Mn this year. Really, would like a 6.5, even though I kinda have the deer spectrum covered with 243, 280, 308, and 30-06.

Thanks for the info on running short action rounds in in a long action donor. That puts the 260 and 7-08 back in the mix and an excuse to call this a gun for my girls.

Guess I need to acquire the $225 30-06 and decide. Thanks again for the info.

 

[WYcoyote]

No feeding issues with the 6.5-.284 Norma, and no alterations.
I know what you mean, I have it covered too with a .223(2), .243, .25-06, .260, 6.5-.284, 7mm RM, 7.62-39(2), 30-30, .300H&H, and .300WM(2).

 

[Dwh7271]

How long is that barrel?

The 6.5-06 is a 26", 250 AI is 24. I think the angle of that pic makes the 6.5 look longer.

Here are some places to look if you are considering doing this.
http://www.savageshooters.com/forum.php
http://www.mcgowenoutlet.com/prefits/savage.html
http://www.apachegunworks.com/index.html
http://pac-nor.com/
http://www.gunshack.com/barrels/savagebarrels
http://www.shilen.com/

That should get you in trouble. :grin: :grin:

 

[BretN]

Thanks for the links and follow up answers to my questions. I found another one here:

http://www.eabco.net/Savage-Rifle-Barrels_c_2750.html

Anyone try the EABCO barrels? Real good price on a barrel change kit, similar to ER Shaw. I just don't know if I want a varmit type heavy 26" barrel. I put a question in to them to see if they offer a sporter contour 24" barrel or not. Bret

 

[Dwh7271]

EABCO sells Shaw barrels also. Don't know if those are theirs or relabeled Shaws.
If I may without offense, the barrel is not where you want to skimp in my opinion. Nothing wrong with those guys especially with Contender barrels as they have a good rep.
The difference in Savage barrels between low end and high is 100-150 dollars. If this is a one and done for you, get a good one. They clean up easier, they shoot well right away(usually :grin: ) and the number of rounds they seem to handle is very good. Not trying to sell you on one or the other brand, just talking.
If I could tell you the three places not to lowball on one; stock, barrel and trigger.
2-300 for the stock, same for the barrel, and 100 or so on the trigger. You won't be sorry you did that IMO.
If you are thinking of a wildcat cartridge, then you have enough variables in the equation already. I would not add in a suspect barrel. If you need to save some bucks, keep the Savage trigger for a while and see how that works. Or try a really good bedding job on the factory stock. Save the money there.
Sorry for the ramble/rant. No harm or slight intended.


Edit: and a word to the wise, when you talk to barrel folks, get a timeline on the barrel. Some are going to surprise you with how long. Second, varmint versus sporters. If it's a walking around, hunting rifle, get the sporter contour or something similar. Varmint barrels shoot well generally but you probably don't want to walk up mountains or through brush with one. :grin:

 

[BretN]

I've got a couple questions into EABCO. They only offer theirs in 26" varmint contour. I don't have a varmint contour gun. I like the value of the Shaw barrel kit. If I knew for sure you could count on sub MOA accuracy out of that, I'd be ok with that. But I do hear what you are saying on getting a good barrel. The only interesting guns are accurate ones.

I guess my title here is a bit of a misnomer, when you start adding up the costs, the build isn't much of a bargain. But I guess if you pick and choose your parts wisely, you get exactly what you wanted and the satisfaction of putting it all together. Also, you get to learn how to do several things I've always wanted to try. I really do like the idea of running a 24" sporter barrel .260 in that long action.

Anyone have good or bad experience with the Shaw barrels? I would normally get blued, but for $35 more they offer stainless. All things being equal, aren't stainless typically better? I can always cerkote it if I want. Thanks, Bret

 

[Dwh7271]

Well. You asked a few tough questions that I guess deserve a reply. This is only from my experience, not heresay or rumors.
I have had two Shaw barrels. They were OK but not stellar. They both hovered around an inch no matter what I threw in them. Not bad. Really about the same as a Savage factory barrel, although some of the factory barrels are dandies. Shoot really well is what I mean. I was wanting a significant improvement and didn't get what I was looking for. Were they bad barrels, no. Were they "hunting" accurate, yes. Finish on them good, yes. Do I hear stories of real good results with them, yes. I'm just saying from my experience there may be better ways to go. Real question is are those two barrels still on my rifles, no. Remember, even on the cheap you're spending some money on this gun so in the long run another 100 isn't that big of a deal. No offense intended but if that amount makes a go/nogo situation this building may not be a good idea.
Pac-Nor, Criterion, McGowen, Apache, Shilen, and I can't remember the others right now all make Savage barrels that work well.
If you want to have a gunsmith thread up one for you then add Krieger, Douglas and Hart into the mix.
Not hammering any maker just telling you what I have found...
On the 260. I have one on the way right now in 260 AI. The 260 is a cool cartridge as are most of the 308 derivatives. Seems like they generally shoot pretty well also. I don't think you'd go wrong with that in a long or short action. I'd prefer long for the seating long ability but that's just me.
There you go. Like Ron White says, "I had the right to remain silent, just not the ability"

 

[BretN]

Thanks everyone for all your help and responses. I went down to the local gun shop (Cabela's whose used gun pricing seldom makes much sense) and the Savage 30-06 that had been there for months at $225 was gone. They had other used Savage and Stevens, but at significantly higher prices. So I'm gonna wait and see what shows up there or elsewhere over the summer.

My original intent was to put together a 6.5mm hunting gun for about the same money as it would cost to get a new gun. I realize now, that was probably faulty thinking on my part. I do like that you can get the pieces of this type of project as you can afford it, so I was never probably going to do everything at once.

Thanks for the reply on the Shaw barrels. For my purposes and wanting a hunting gun, I would have been happy with MOA accuracy, not ecstatic, but I could live with it. But I did hear loud and clear everyone's advice to jump to the next level (about $300 or so) and get a better barrel for not a lot more money.

I did put in emails to both EABCO and ER Shaw. They both responded quickly and answered my questions. I was happy with their initial contact with me. If I wanted to do this today and order from in stock at Midway or EABCO, I would probably try one of their barrels. But to get what I really want, Shaw would have to make for me. Cost is higher than the "kit" and I'd have to wait 3-4 months for delivery. If I went that route, I'd definitely look at the higher end stuff and probably go that way, as it just isn't that much more at that point.

Perhaps I put the cart before the horse a little here, not having a donor Savage in my hands yet. But I do feel I have a much better idea of what I want and what it will take to get there. Thanks for your help guys.

Bret

 

[gerry]

It is good to bounce ideas off people, less mistakes happen that way.

 

[wildgene]

Even though I've never been a Savage guy, I can't seem to shake the idea of putting together my own gun from a donor savage. There happens to be a 30-06 at a local gun shop for $225. Also have looked at the Remington 700 long range, but can't picture myself lugging a 10+ pound rifle around.

Any reason I can't buy the Savage 30-06 and rebarrel it with a 24" 260 REM or 7mm-08? I know a short action would be preferred, but would it work? Alternatively, I could put on a 6.5x55 barrel, but I didn't see that caliber offered by er shaw through Midway. Appreciate your thoughts on this type of build. Bret

...you should take a look @ the Ruger American Predator in 6.5 Creedmoor, might just fit the bill for what you're looking for w/o all the additional time & hassle...

http://www.ruger.com/products/americanR ... odels.html

 

[taylorce1]

Even though I've never been a Savage guy, I can't seem to shake the idea of putting together my own gun from a donor savage. There happens to be a 30-06 at a local gun shop for $225. Also have looked at the Remington 700 long range, but can't picture myself lugging a 10+ pound rifle around.

Any reason I can't buy the Savage 30-06 and rebarrel it with a 24" 260 REM or 7mm-08? I know a short action would be preferred, but would it work? Alternatively, I could put on a 6.5x55 barrel, but I didn't see that caliber offered by er shaw through Midway. Appreciate your thoughts on this type of build. Bret

...you should take a look @ the Ruger American Predator in 6.5 Creedmoor, might just fit the bill for what you're looking for w/o all the additional time & hassle...

http://www.ruger.com/products/americanR ... odels.html

If you want to see what the RAR 6.5 CM can do you should read the link.

http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbth...pics/9898886/1/New_RAR_Predator_6.5_Creed....

 

[BretN]

One more source for barrels, and anyone who's spent time on savageshooters.com knows this already, is Northland Shooter's supply. He sells finished Criterion barrels for right around $300-350. What's attractive about that for me is he's only about an hour from me. I forgot to ask him what he would charge to swap out a barrel, thus saving me the cost of the tools. He said the Criterions usually take 12-14 weeks to deliver. They are a hand lapped fully finished match grade barrel. Many calibers to choose from, as well as several contours, the heavy sporter and light varmint contours got my interest.

Also, when I was at Cabela's I took a look at the Remington 783, which they have on sale for $259. It uses a barrel nut and Northland shooters has the above barrels for it. They are not a bad gun at all really. Built to a price point obviously, but Remington borrowed some of the best cost saving and accuracy inducing ideas from other makers. Savage barrel nut, two piece bolt, and glock style trigger, round action and small ejection port ala Tikka, magnum taper barrels and pillar bedding. I've got some quick thinking to do before the sale ends and want to look at them again, but likely will get a 308. What I can't tell from the info out so far, is if they have both a long and short actions, or if it's really one action like my Tikka's for any long or short action.

I'm sure this may get groans from the crowd, but this 783 is a way better gun than the 710/770. The action seems nearly as slick as a 700, and as good or better than the Savage. So I've got to look it over closer tomorrow and compare the SA to the LA and decide. Boyd's makes several stocks for it and I've heard a 700 stock can be modified to fit. For a hunting gun, I'd be happy with the Boyd's laminate, and may get a Boyd's for one of my Tikka's. Will let you know.

Bret

 

[BretN]

I will take a look at the Ruger too. One of the things I don't like about all the bargain guns offered right now, is their stocks. But learning how to glass bed an action is one of the goals of this project, so that is ok.