Barrel oils - ok?

[AKBear]

Is it ok to use Break-Free CLP or Rem Oil in rifle/pistol barrels after they have been properly cleaned? I believe I read a while back (can't find it anymore) that products with Teflon shouldn't be used in barrels. After I read that I switched to using only Hoppe's #9 and Barnes CR-10. I leave a light coat of Hoppe's #9 in the barrel until the next trip to the range. I primarly use the CLP and sometimes Rem Oil on the exterior finish and in the action (bolt) only as of right now. If I shouldn't be using CLP or Rem Oil, should I stick with #9 in the barrel or get a product like Kroil?

 

[Charlie-NY]

Break Free is a preferred product to protect your bore (and rifle exterior metal) for storage. IMO. Neither Hoppes #9 nor Barnes CR-10 is a good choice. Actually, Barnes CR-10 can be very harmful to your bore if left in longer than recommended. CR-10 has a high ammonia content which is said to be capable of etching steel.

Use the Break Free!

 

[JD338]

I use Rem Oil both inside and outside.

JD338

 

[Bruce Mc]

I also use Rem oil inside the barrel after a scrubbin with CR-10 as a rust preventitive.

 

[Guest]

You can try the Birchwood-Casey Barricade oil. It seems to work well for my barrels. I also had good luck with Hoppe's Benchrest 9 oil, in the little black bottle. Just about any regular old gun oil will work, as you're just trying to apply a little protectant to the barrel after cleaning. If you use a foaming cleaner you will want a better oil, and more of it, as the foam really takes the steel down to raw, and corrosion can set in quickly in humid climates. I've spent some time working on friends' guns that show up with rust streaks in them, and the biggest issue is lack of sufficient and proper bore lubricant.

 

[R Flowers]

You may have read in the Sinclair catalog that you should not use any Teflon in your barrel. They state that and have for some time now. Why, I do not know.

I have used Rem Oil in rifle barrels for a long time now and if it has done any harm I cannot tell it.

I would recommend after cleaning that you leave a coating of some sort of oil in your barrel. If you are concerned about the Teflon issue use something like Montana Extreme or some other "gun" oil.

While Kroil is a great penetrating oil and good for cleaning when combined with things like JB bore paste, it is not a good rust preventative.

If anyone knows why you should not use Teflon in the bore I would like to hear about it.

 

[longwinters]

I have had good luck with Rem oil also.

Long

 

[Bigcat_hunter]

I also use Rem oil inside the barrel after a scrubbin with CR-10 as a rust preventitive.

I have read that Remoil inside the barrel is a BIG no no. I guess the teflon can have a corrosive effect from the friction of the bullet or something leading to accuracy issues. I cant remember exactly.

 

[Poset]

Anyone heard of or use Lucas Gun Oil?

I read a very favorable review a few months ago (somewhere) which said it was particularly good for guns which would not be used for a while, as it won't dry off during "long periods of storage" which the article translated as months - not years.

I've been using Rem Oil, but bought a bottle of this stuff which I'm going to try out on a couple of rifles not used over this winter.

The bottle doesn't list the contents, other than it leaves a "polymeric film".

 

[ronco]

I also use rem-oil inside and out.I also put a large patch in the chamber to keep oil out of the bolt.At -10 degrees and oil in the bolt does not do you any good,but the deer did'nt complain.

 

[normo]

In the military we store our rifles (M-4 Carbines) with a lite coat of Break Free or CLP in the bore. They will sometimes sit 6-8 months before being shot again. My M-4 will shoot a ragged one hole group after being pulled from storage and haveing the zero checked.

Use this same stuff on my personal guns to BTW.

 

[cloverleaf]

Break Free CLP is my choice to follow Hoppes #9 and wipe out after cleaning. CL

 

[whiplash]

I happend to be browsing through an '07 Sinclair Int catalog, and noticed they no longer sell Rem-Oil. So I looked at the '06 catalog and the Rem-Oil was in there. I called them and asked why they no longer sold it. They told me that when Rem-Oil (with the Teflon) is left in the barrel, then shot, the heat has a chemical reaction and causes it to be acidic....In the past I have been putting Rem-Oil in my barrels, lightly, after cleaning then put away. I dont know if there is any damage or not, I dont think so, but then I dont have a borescope. They no longer sell it, so take that with a grain of salt I guess...

 

[big rifle man]

I used Rem Oil after cleaning with CR10 for a long time and then tried another product called Corrosion X. This stuff is great. It completely prevents rust, doesn't gum up and just before shooting I run a patch through the barrel. Doesn't sem to be much different in point of impact. I also now use a product called Witches brew put out by Holland Gunsmithing. This product works the first time for cleaning Carbon and copper out of the barrel. It's definitely better than CR10. As far as the Corrosion X, I live in Florida, (humidity central) and I do not have a rust or corrosion problem since using this product. Both products are worth a try. :grin:

 

[Guest]

Who makes Corrosion X?

 

[big rifle man]

Corrision X is made by Corrosion Technologies Corporation out of Dallas, Texas. It really is great stuff and stops or prevents rust 100 percent. It's a great lube and does not evaporate. Don't mean to sound like one of their reps but it works great.

 

[old #7]

After a day in the rain I flood the outside with wd-40, wipe all excess off then clean the barell with hoppe's #9. After cleaning I run a patch with Outers "gun oil" down the pipe and wipe the entire gun down with a clean "gun oiled" rag before re-assembly.

 

[AKBear]

Thanks a bunch for all the info, fellow shooters! It was in the product description for RemOil in one of my older Sinclair catalogs that I had read about not using RemOil in the barrel due to Teflon - I looked long and hard couldn't remember where I saw that! I am going to stay with Hoppe's #9 and Break-Free CLP from now on. I'll use up the rest of my RemOil on the exterior of my firearms until it's gone.

I brought this topic up because of an accuracy issue I am having with my Winchester M70 Classic Stainless (Winchester M70 accuracy issues). I was trying to narrow down why I couldn't get my rifle to group well. Thus, it's going in for a bore scope inspection and I am courious to see if the barrel has any problems that could be related to Teflon in the bore. I wouldn't think so but we'll see.

I'd like to say I really appreciate this forum and it's ability to help with such topics!!!! :grin:

 

[cloverleaf]

you know- I use the same combination- and my rifle wont settle down and shoot until I put 4-5 rounds down the barrel. do you have the same trouble? In any event be sure to patch out that CLP before you shoot. Maybe itsso slick the bullets dont grab the rifling? Kidding - but maybe it will have an affect. Let me know what yu find out. CL

 

[WHELENATOR]

I have a question for the guy with his "issue" M-4. I also have a Bushmaster and it has the mil-spec chrome lined bore. Why in the world would you bother to add a coating of oil to chrome???Is it needed? I only lube the working pieces of mine, and so far haven't seen any rust forming in the bore, and this is after days on a 4-wheeler getting water splashed in the rifle on creek crossings. Am I crazy? Or is oiling a chrome bore not really necessary? Just curious...