Bedding Factory Synthetic Stocks

victorc

Beginner
Jul 2, 2006
36
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Is there a bedding material out there made to bed factory synthetic stocks like Remington, Winchester, Ruger, etc....? I have a Remington 700 XCR and I'm not quite sure the existing epoxy bedding products will stick to what appears to be more of a plastic stock than anything else.

Brownells has a product called ACRAGLAS. The description claims, "The bonding strength of ACRAGLAS is phenomenal - will actually stick 'anything to anything' (except certain poly-plastics)."

Your advice would be appreciated.
 
Victor I just recently bedded a few remington tupperware stocks. I used devcon plastic steel in the putty form. It worked amazing. I would recommend it. I did however rough up the stock in the places I put it. That way it had more to grab and hold to. Good luck.
 
Thank you, cahunter. We'll give it a try. Your comment about tupperware stocks cracks me up. That's about what they are.
 
I have bedded 20 or more of those stocks using the acrsglass without a problem. Rough the stock where the bedding will be placed. IMPORTANT that you remove any oils from the resin in the stock or off the barreled action before mixing. I use acetone on a cleaning patch.Rick.
 
Sorry for not getting this up here sooner...

I have bedded a friends 338 WM XCR with that very same bedding compound. Rough the stock up and go to town, that stuff will stick to anything! Before we did his rifle, it wouldn't shoot anything under 2". After the bed job it shot almost everything under 2".

Make sure to let your rifle cure for at least three days. I like to let mine sit for a week just to make sure everything gets set up good.

Let us know how it turns out for ya.
 
rick smith":ciek34df said:
I have bedded 20 or more of those stocks using the acrsglass without a problem. Rough the stock where the bedding will be placed. IMPORTANT that you remove any oils from the resin in the stock or off the barreled action before mixing. I use acetone on a cleaning patch.Rick.

I have done around half as many as Rick but following what he stated above has proved successful. I also drill small 1/8" holes where possible to give the epoxy more places to bond to.
 
I just did a rem 700 using accraglass. I also used a spray that is supposed to help the epoxy adhere to the molded synthetic. For the life of me I can't remember what it is called. I got it at an auto parts place and its used to spray plastic parts on cars before they are painted. I'll post the product name later in the day. I got the tip from a home gunsmithing handbook.
 
After reading this and that there has been sucess bedding the tuperware stocks, I've started on my VTR.

I've actually drilled some small holes and anchored some tiny machine screws in various locations to help facilitate adhesion with the epoxy.

3M makes some small wipes for automotive applications where double sided tape is going to be used..... phenominal product.
3M # is 06396 for a quantity of 25 wipes I belive. Not sure if it works for this application, but going to give it a try.
 
I have finished up with a model 70 with a tupperware stock, then moved on to a model 700 with the same kind of stock. On the 70 I needed some stiffening in the forend so I epoxied in (JB Weld) some pieces of hardwood in the hollowed sections then used the accraglass kit to bed the barrel with clearance. The action was bedded with JB Weld in the recoil lug area. This is a 300 Wby and has held up really well. I did rough up all the surfaces to adhere to as well as drill 1/8" holes a angles to help lock the bedding in place. This turned out so well that I figured I'd give it a shot on the model 700 in 300 Win Mag. It also turned out great! I had the laminated stocks on them at one time, but I need sharp checkering for grip in hunting situations. If you have one of these it's worth a try to fix them. If you don't like them when you are done, it's time to buy a good aftermarket stock with the full length aluminum bedding block!
 
When I bedded my Remington 700 I learned one important thing the least of your worries will be what the acraglass won't stick to. :lol: :lol:

Someone gave me some advice it might have been on this website but I can't remember which turned out to be more true than anything else. "Put two coats of release agent on everything you think the epoxy is going to touch, and three coats on everything else." :wink:
 
On my Remington tupperware stock we bedded a piece if alumunium (lighter than hardwood) in the channel under the barrel. This is supposed to help the flex resulting from the bipod. We also did not use the glass however I am having a senior moment and can't remember what product we did use. What ever we did really helped because the 2nd and 3 shots don't move 4 inches to the left anymore. Can't get the Bergers under 3/4 inch thou!
 
Elkman":35dc6wix said:
On my Remington tupperware stock we bedded a piece if alumunium (lighter than hardwood) in the channel under the barrel. This is supposed to help the flex resulting from the bipod. We also did not use the glass however I am having a senior moment and can't remember what product we did use. What ever we did really helped because the 2nd and 3 shots don't move 4 inches to the left anymore. Can't get the Bergers under 3/4 inch thou!

Elkman,

What rifle and caliber/load are you shooting?
I ask because I had my nephews XCR 338 RUM for a summer and I had one heck of a time getting it to shoot. I finally found a load that went under an inch but it was the most difficult 700 I have ever worked with.
In addition to getting a better scope, I think he needs a bedding job.

JD338
 
JD338

Its a Rem 700, 7mm STW, with a 7mm Weatherby Mag barrel, rechambered to STW. Its a 20 year old action with a new custom trigger and of course the other work. Last year I was shooting .300 or so groups with the Barnes 160 TSX, then all of a sudden it started moving left after the second or third shot. Was not consistent, so I had the work done and it shoots 6 or so in the same area. I am using 180 Berger's in it now and think I will go back to the TSX as the best I can get out of the Bergers is about an inch. Hope this helps!
 
CAhunter

It was horizontal, my stock has a cavity (I think for the mold) that lies under the barrel in the forarm. If I remember its 9 or 10 inches long (maybe longer) and an 1 1/2 inch or so deep. We used that space to place the alumimum. Some goo! (technical term) was placed on the bottom then the L shaped piece of alumimum was pressed in and then more goo around the edges to stick it in good. What it did was add ridigity to the forarm for the bipod. The recoil lug was also bedded and new action bolts were installed. The smith thought that the action screws were maybe not holding the action and allowing it to move around a bit. Hope this helps.
 
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