Best rifle cleaning process

[DaveA37]

I'm curious so ask a question which may have no definitive answer.

No doubt we all have a different way of cleaning a fouled bore but which is the scientifically BEST way to clean it?

I've heard/read a lot of opinions/theories preaching to use "X" cleaning product over "Y" product, which chemical, brush, rod, patches, etc, etc. (I have my own way of cleaning my rifles but it may not be the best way and opinions are like noses, we all have one).

Obviously, the end objective is to get the bore as clean as possible. So with all the folks who frequent this site and shoot hundreds of rounds each year, which one is the "best" cure all?

 

[DrMike]

Scientifically? Cleaning works with almost all the products on the market. Some work faster, but tend to be harsh solvents. Others may work slower, but be more gentle on human skin and eyes and nasal passages. I have tried almost all the products available, and I can't say that any have failed to work as advertised.

 

[Guy Miner]

I'm not sure there is a single "best" method.

On other forums this question might start personal insults and even challenges to fight... :grin:

Some of my rifle barrels foul more than others and need stronger cleaning methods. A cut rifle Krieger fouls far less than a recent make Remington barrel for instance.

With the Krieger, a couple of passes of patches only, soaked in Butch's Bore Shine, normally cleans it right up, even after a couple of hundred rounds.

The Remington? :grin: Often I need to scrub it pretty good. The past few years I've used "Patch Out" letting it do the work instead of me.

I've pretty well given up the use of bronze bore brushes, just using nylon brushes and patches for the most part anymore.

Again - the search for "best" might take a while... Not sure there is one. Good luck!

 

[300WSM]

Best cleaning method? My method! But it is a secret. :lol:

On a serious note I will say this. Patch and jag are not enough to get a rifle cleaned back to new finish.

Solvents I used/use
Break Free CLP (this is about the only real do all liquid/solvent) if you want to only have one item for cleaning I would pick this.

Shooters choice... Good stuff. Very strong so I hope you have a strong stomach.

Hoppes Solvent... Good. Almost as strong as shooters choice

Gun slick.... I would like to spend a little more time with this one...it does leave a slick film on your finger well after wiping off so maybe they are on to something here.

Tetra gun grease. (I know this isnt a solvent but for working in areas in need of some lube... Worthless. Makes everything gunk and is messy)

Rem Clean...again anything with amonia like stuff in it is gonna work.


Let me say this. If you use more than a jag and patch...and I certainly hope you are...then anything with Amonia in it is going to clean what you want...quickly and thoroughly.

 

[ScreaminEagle]

Kroil and JB bore paste!
Always use a bore guide
Dewey coated cleaning rods
Pay close attention to the chamber and action. These are places that collect a lot of crud.

Don't rush. I look at cleaning as a pleasant chore. I take my time and reflect on the great times that I have had with each gun, and do my best to ensure that there are more to come.

 

[rick smith]

I start with a few patches of Bore Tec's carbon remover then nylon brushing. Run a couple more patches and let the rifle sit for 5-10min. Couple more patches, more brushing, more patches and wait 5-10 more. Normally that gets the bulk of the carbon. On to Bore Tec's copper remover and the same technique. If I have a real fouler, I will also scrub with J&B bore paste or a similar product from Iosso. I have tried just about all the solvents on the market and started with Bore Tech a few years ago. When I first used it I thought it couldn't get my rifle clean with no ammonia smell. After cleaning with Bore Tech I got out the Montana Extreme and Sweet's 7.62 and started again. After a number of patches with Montana, no results. So went to Sweet's and found no copper. My rifles don't get a lot of rounds between cleanings, usually no more than 20-30 so they clean up easily. Just got finished cleaning two rifles for other friends who don't clean very often, had to J&B both barrels to bring back the accuracy.
I always use a bore guide and coated Dewey rod, wipe the rod after each trip down the barrel.Rick.

 

[Wincheringen]

I avoid harsh solvents and brushes whenever I can. I pretty much only use foaming bore cleaners anymore.

 

[300WSM]

I avoid harsh solvents and brushes whenever I can. I pretty much only use foaming bore cleaners anymore.

may i ask why the boycott on brushes?

 

[bbearhntr]

Im no expert on cleaning but I haven't had any problems with Butch's Bore Shine, a nylon brush, and a little elbow grease. I do recommend a bore guide and Dewey rod as well. And I use a lot more patches then I ever thought possible.

 

[SJB358]

I start with a few patches of Bore Tec's carbon remover then nylon brushing. Run a couple more patches and let the rifle sit for 5-10min. Couple more patches, more brushing, more patches and wait 5-10 more. Normally that gets the bulk of the carbon. On to Bore Tec's copper remover and the same technique. If I have a real fouler, I will also scrub with J&B bore paste or a similar product from Iosso. I have tried just about all the solvents on the market and started with Bore Tech a few years ago. When I first used it I thought it couldn't get my rifle clean with no ammonia smell. After cleaning with Bore Tech I got out the Montana Extreme and Sweet's 7.62 and started again. After a number of patches with Montana, no results. So went to Sweet's and found no copper. My rifles don't get a lot of rounds between cleanings, usually no more than 20-30 so they clean up easily. Just got finished cleaning two rifles for other friends who don't clean very often, had to J&B both barrels to bring back the accuracy.
I always use a bore guide and coated Dewey rod, wipe the rod after each trip down the barrel.Rick.

I am just about like Rick here. Iosso/Kroil soaked patches every 50-100 rounds depending on fouling and barrel. Then I hit it with Boretech CU2. Seems to work fast. You can spend alot of time with Iosso/Kroil, it truly cuts through carbon entrenched bores and you will find you are pulling ALOT of back out of your barrels even after quite a few applications. Love the stuff.

 

[Wincheringen]

I avoid harsh solvents and brushes whenever I can. I pretty much only use foaming bore cleaners anymore.

may i ask why the boycott on brushes?

Don't need them with the foaming cleaners.

 

[ROVERT]

It is doubtful that it is the best, but this is what works for me:

 

[critterskinner]

I see several people recommending Dewey rods. What is the reason for not using Tipton rods? They have no coating to hold crud and are carbon which is harmless. Just curious.

 

[DrMike]

I have both Tipton and Dewey rods. I'll preferentially take Tipton rods. If you wipe your rods, the Dewey coating doesn't really hold grit. My complaint is that the bearings are inferior to those in the Tipton rods.

 

[Guest]

It's not secret I'm firmly entrenched in the BoreTech Eliminator camp, though my regimen differs from the directions on the label. I send three soaked patches through the barrel, wait 10min, and then send one soaked patch back through. If it's very blue, I'll send a second soaked patch. Then another 10min soak, and another soaked patch. Repeat until the first soaked patch through after the 10min soak is just wet and clean. I've tried BTE after all sorts of solvents, as has a good friend of mine. Between us, I suspect we've tried it after at least 35 different solvents. I've personally tried half that many before finding BTE. In every case, I've gotten copper out with BTE after other solvents came out clean. I reverse tested a couple of solvents, and got clean patches after BTE was through.

I keep some bore paste around, for new rifles and rifles I want to lap a bit for break-in. And I keep a few other solvents around, including Hoppe's #9, if only for the smell.

I also use Tipton rods. I like the carbon, as I've had coated rods of several makes peel or strip, which tells me many coatings are not up to snuff. I've not used Dewey rods, though. I don't feel the need, having found Tipton carbon fiber rods.

 

[ScreaminEagle]

I see several people recommending Dewey rods. What is the reason for not using Tipton rods? They have no coating to hold crud and are carbon which is harmless. Just curious.

I choose Dewey because that is what I bought first and I love them. My coated rods don't seem to hold crud at all. I always spray them off with some Quickscrub III after I'm finished.

 

[tjen]

I have three solvents I like to have on hand Hoppies #9, Shooters Choice, and Butches bore shine.

First thing I do is use Kroil oil with a patch and jag because its cheap. Two or three wet patches to remove the bulk of the fowling than a dry patch. Next is either Hops or Shooter choice. Once the bore seems clean I use an oil either Kroil or Hopes oil and usualy more powder fowling come lose. To check for copper I use the butches bore shine let it set for ten minute and run a dry patch through if its clean just oil the bore and done.

I will ofton let a bore soak with oil over night or a week and run a dry patch through and re-oil the bore. It is amazing what the oil lifts out.