Body Wall Brass Thickness. Plus? Minus?........or who cares?

[Oldtrader3]

You gotta decide what your thresehold of pain is for whatever component you are considering or needing to buy. I won't buy a $300 set of boots or a $450 shell for hunting but I will pay $1.50 apiece for brass cartridge cases. I absolutely buy into the european way of make it right the first time and make it right everytime. Thet also is why I will pay $2000 for a Diavari Zeiss Victory or a Swarovsi Z6. This Although I only own one of them and a cheaper model of the other (Z3). However I also have two other Kahles scopes.

I also almost exclusively shoot Partitions, even for practice and with Lapua or Norma brass (now Nosler). It costs more but it lasts three times longer so economy is in the eye of the beholder. What the hell, I spend untold hours getting my Model 70's and Mausers to shoot. Why shouldn't I give them the best components and then no excuses. I use RCBS gauge blocks to assure that my Forster dies are producing the best handloads that I can make tolerance wise with Forster Bench rest dies and aftermarket carbide sizer stems.

I already have the seven rifles that I need for everything that I am going to hunt and have tricked out most of these rifles years ago to group acceptably under MOA. I am an old man and my concept of quality culture will die with me but I don't care what the rest of the world thinks and does.

 

[300WSM]

You gotta decide what your thresehold of pain is for whatever component you are considering or needing to buy. I won't buy a $300 set of boots or a $450 shell for hunting but I will pay $1.50 apiece for brass cartridge cases. I absolutely buy into the european way of make it right the first time and make it right everytime. Thet also is why I will pay $2000 for a Diavari Zeiss Victory or a Swarovsi Z6. This Although I only own one of them and a cheaper model of the other (Z3). However I also have two other Kahles scopes.

I also almost exclusively shoot Partitions, even for practice and with Lapua or Norma brass (now Nosler). It costs more but it lasts three times longer so economy is in the eye of the beholder. What the hell, I spend untold hours getting my Model 70's and Mausers to shoot. Why shouldn't I give them the best components and then no excuses. I use RCBS gauge blocks to assure that my Forster dies are producing the best handloads that I can make tolerance wise with Forster Bench rest dies and aftermarket carbide sizer stems.

I already have the seven rifles that I need for everything that I am going to hunt and have tricked out most of these rifles years ago to group acceptably under MOA. I am an old man and my concept of quality culture will die with me but I don't care what the rest of the world thinks and does.

I am with you on cheaper is in the eye of the beholder...I do question your statement on that premium brass lasting three times longer. I have no doubt the brass is under a closer watched eye before it gets packaged but lasting three times longer I'm not so sure. I have some Olin brass that make some people say "WHAT" if I told them how many times fired. I can't imagine any brass case lasting three times longer.
Your specific application may very well last longer but three times as much? In your app it very well could be the case. I've never found the premium brass to last that much longer than typical Rem and Win brass.

 

[Oldtrader3]

It will last three times longer than Remington. Maybe not Winchester but the latest Winchester that I bought wasn't much better than Remington. I used W-W for years and got good service out of it, but not lately. Maybe I just got a bad lot or something?