Boretech CU+2 Cleaner

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Any one on our site have a 300 RUM using this product? The instructions do not state to repeat the process if copper is still present after the initial cleaning steps,like Barnes CR-10. I don't want to sound stupid here but logic would tell you to repeat the process. I find that after using Boretech per bottle instructions, flushing the barrel with a neutralizer then applying CR-10 there is still copper fouling present. I like Boretech as it eliminates the smell.
Anyone have a similar experience or am I not using Boretech properly?

Don
 
Bore Tech cu+2 remover instructions from website.
1. Unload firearm.
2. Wet 3-4 patches with Bore Tech cu+ 2 remover. Only push patch through bore in
one direction.
3. Make 10-15 passes with tight nylon bore brush saturated with Bore Tech cu+2
remover.
4. Repeat step two, let soak 5 minutes.
5. Push dry patches through bore until they come out clean.
6. Before storing firearm, lightly oil bore.
Keith
 
This pretty much mirrors my experience with BT Eliminator in the past week. I used to clean with Hoppe's No.9 and Sweet's exclusively and decided to try Eliminator. I also found that a single cycle following the directions left jacket fouling behind. Eliminator truly is better than Hoppe's for the removal of powder fouling. BUT...even though it appears to do a spectacular job on metal fouling, it just takes too long to finish the job. What I am finding to work the best is to abandon the Eliminator after a couple of cycles and then finish the copper removal with Sweet's, after which I finish up with Hoppe's to make sure all the ammonia is removed. My impression is that the chemistry of Eliminator makes you think it's removing tons of metal fouling because of the deep blue color of the removed residue, but it's really not as effective as it appears. Sweet's used with a nylon brush gets the remaining jacket fouling out muy pronto. I do definitely like Eliminator and will continue to use it, but only for the initial phase of cleaning.

YMMV.
 
RR,
I find even though Barnes CR-10, smells bad and you do need adequate ventilation, it cleans the best and it doesn't mislead you to thinking your barrel is clean. I'm going to give BTCU+2 another try going though the cycle until I can get it clean before throwing it in the trash.

You may want to try neutralizing the bore with Automotive brake cleaner. Got that tip from Barnes Tech department.

I find it takes me 6-cycles with CR-10 to get all the fouling out shooting Accubonds.

Don
 
Don, when I bought the BTE I also bought the CU2, as I thought BTE was for fouling and CU2 was for copper. To be totally honest, I cannot tell the difference between the two of them for copper removal. It almost seems like they are the same product.

The instructions they list don't get copper fouling out of my rifles. Maybe mine are more stubborn than theirs? :twisted:

I soak the bore with the BTE or CU2 and let it soak for 10-15 minutes, and then patch it out with another soaked patch. This should result in a DARK blue patch, the second wet one should be less blue. If it is still blue, I continue to let it soak. I have found nothing that will get a heavily coppered barrel clean in 4-5 patches, I think it is almost impossible. The only thing I see that takes it out immediately is JD bore paste and I don't use that regulary on lightly fouled barrels. Again, I just continue to run soaked patches till they come out relatively copper free. I am under no illusions I have ever gotten every single but of copper, but I know with BTE or CU2 I have gotten the majority and it hasn't given me any real trouble. The smoother the factory barrels get, the easier they let go of the copper, so my mindset it get out all I can, so the bullets can do the polishing. I wished there was a magic elixir to get rid of it, but time and elbow grease are the best I have found thus far....

I am open to suggestions though, as I am almost to point of needing more BTE/CU2, so if there is a better mousetrap, besides, Sweets, CR10 and Montana Copper Killer (Tried them all, and BTE wins so far), I wanna hear it. Scotty
 
Scotty, your method is right on the money. I clean my barrels the same way. I have found that after using cu+2 for awhile the barrel seems to come cleaner faster. The first two or three times I used cu+2 I had to use it multiple times. I've used Barnes, Sweets and Montana extreme and as far as I can see cu+2 is the best product. I would be very careful of using multple products in the rifle barrel.
 
Scotty,
I saw this on LRH Forum on a thread I was involved with. This guy mentioned KG12 Copper Remover for Rifles, to be 10x faster than Boretech CU+2. He made the switch from Boretech and has never looked back.Their website shows a 24-hr. soak test conducted with pics of the competitors. Also it's not ammonia based. Pretty revealing too. Think I'm going to give some a try.

Yeah I hear ya on the good old elbow grease thing on cleaning the gun. But hey why not look into other products that could cut the time down. Could give me more time for reloading. :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Don
 
DON":5do9y0fe said:
Scotty,
I saw this on LRH Forum on a thread I was involved with. This guy mentioned KG12 Copper Remover for Rifles, to be 10x faster than Boretech CU+2. He made the switch from Boretech and has never looked back.Their website shows a 24-hr. soak test conducted with pics of the competitors. Also it's not ammonia based. Pretty revealing too. Think I'm going to give some a try.

Yeah I hear ya on the good old elbow grease thing on cleaning the gun. But hey why not look into other products that could cut the time down. Could give me more time for reloading. :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Don
Click to expand...

I am with you Don. KG12 it is then! I am in for trying anything once!
 
RR,
That's good feed back. What can more can you tell us. This may save me the time and money.

Thanks,
Don
 
I know that you can put a drop of KG12 on an old penny and the tarnish will basically vanish, but based on having used a couple of bottles of it I don't take it to mean that it is especially effective for removing metal fouling. It does not contain ammonia, but when I smell the stuff I detect something akin to ammonia---not sure what it is but it actually reminds me of the smell of urine. The portion of the metal fouling that appears on patches pushed through the bore appears as a brown to black residue.

I think it might work better than Hoppe's No.9 on metal fouling but nowhere near as well as Eliminator and certainly not even close to Sweet's.

Right on the bottle:

Some of the ingredients in KG-12 are classified toxic.Avoid prolonged contact with skin. Wash hands after each use. If skin is exposed, flush thoroughly with water and seek medical attention. If swallowed, call poison control immediately for possible cyanic poisoning.

"Water-based" sounds innocuous, but it's deceptive, isn't it?
 
RR,
Thank you for the insight. You said enough right there for me. It's difficult not getting the stuff on your hands while cleaning unless you wear gloves which I do not. Think I'll stick with Boretech CU+2 and CR-10.

Don
 
Glad for the opportunity to share, Don. In all honesty, I had forgotten about the warning and hadn't ever thought about it much at all. I have gotten the stuff on my fingers and it feels the same as when you get liquid bleach on your fingers. I've always just washed my hands after use and never came to any harm, but still...cyanic poisoning? NO thanks!
 
Yeah Buddy, I'm with you on that one.

Thanks again,
Don
 
Thought I'd give BoreTech CU+2 another try. Cycled the cleaning instructions about 5 times letting it soak 10-15 minutes each time. Flushed the barrel (neutralized) with automotive brake cleaner, ran some dry patches through, put CR-10 barrel, first patch came out clean, second patch going 10 strokes, the patch was light gray, no blue. I'd say BTCU+2 got it clean. I'm surprised. :shock:

Don
 
DON":hdc198bf said:
Thought I'd give BoreTech CU+2 another try. Cycled the cleaning instructions about 5 times letting it soak 10-15 minutes each time. Flushed the barrel (neutralized) with automotive brake cleaner, ran some dry patches through, put CR-10 barrel, first patch came out clean, second patch going 10 strokes, the patch was light gray, no blue. I'd say BTCU+2 got it clean. I'm surprised. :shock:

Don
Click to expand...

Nice, it does work and without the smell. It's a winner in my book. Maybe not the best, but one of the top picks.
 
I've used it a couple more times since my last comment and I have decided it will definitely be a part of my cleaning regimen from this day forward. Next time I shoot (when the wind stops blowing around here---could take til June!) I'll try cleaning with Eliminator exclusively and see how many cycles it takes. I agree, it's one of the better solvents out there and I would go so far as to say that it's better on both types of fouling than any other solvent I have utilized in that way.
 
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