Brass issue, annealing maybe?

[HeathSexton]

I had 40 pieces of 3x fired brass for my .243, I annealed them using a candle and reloaded the cases. When I went to the range some loaded normal with no issues, some had some resistance closing the bolt, and some took some force to shut the bolt, why the difference? All fired from my rifle everytime, all sized in my dies, same lot #, etc. Did the annealing not work, as in not hot enough? My shooting was at 620yds and I STRUGGLED worse than ever hitting steel, maybe I had one of those days but I think that the brass issue had some to do with it. Anyone know what would cause the difference in closing the bolt?

 

[PJGunner]

I think I can positively state that your annealling was probably not the source of your problem. Methinks one of two thing, both interelated. When was the last time you checked the length of your cases and when did you last trime them? That stiff chambering could come from too long brass that could cause the seating die to crimp the bullets, even though the die is not set to do so, the case length will cause the problem. So now the case has been crimped and maybe too much causing a slight bulging of the shoulder which can make chambering a bit stiff to, Dammit, why won't this blankety blank shell chamber?"
I have two rifles chambered to the .243 cartridge and that brass does stretch quite a bit, especially with stiff full power loads. I have taken up the habit of checking the length of my .243 brass after every resizing. Only takes a second or two and saves me a lot of trouble at the range or the field.
Some cartridges are more prone to stretching and I believe the .243 is one of those offenders.
Paul B.

 

[HeathSexton]

PJ, you are correct, it was not annealing as I did it again on 2 shells that would not chamber, not length either as I always trim after sizing.


After some more fooling around I had to screw my sizer die in 1/8 more of a turn to get them to chamber easily, why it only effected say 15 out of the 40 I do not know.

 

[JD338]

Heath,

I don't think you can get brass hot enough with a candle. You need to use a torch to get the case annealed. Use a pie pan with water in to and stand the cases up. You heat up a case and then tip it over into the water.

I think what you need to do is bump the shoulder on the cases in the sizing die. Check the case length but I think its the shoulder.

JD338

 

[Elkman]

I am with JD the shoulder could be moving forward specially if you are only neck sizing and not crunching up tight on the shoulder. Why are you annealing after three loads? I know that some here do it but most have not, (me included) as I really don't see the need for it. Most of my cases including the magnums go over 10 reloadings and I am guessing many have gone way over that. I am trying to do better on counting reloads per case but I find it hard, especially when doing load development because I usually don't shoot an entire box on each range trip. But will usually load them back up before the next trip. I thought about color coding them but dismissed that!! If you are going to anneal you have to get them hotter. Just my 02. :grin:

 

[corbin9191]

I am with JD as well. Bump the shoulder back and when annealing I always use the torch and count to 8-10 seconds then I put them in the water to cool.

 

[sithlord6512]

Heath,

I don't think you can get brass hot enough with a candle.

JD338,

I betcha Heath read an article from John Barsness about using a candle to anneal brass. If I remember correctly, the technique is to hold the candle about halfway up the case between your fingers, place the neck in the candle flame, and turn with your fingers until you can no longer hold the candle, and then drop the case into a wet cloth.

Again, if I remember correctly, John Barsness indicated that still occasionally uses this technique in his thead dedicated to "Brass" on the 24hourcampfire site (the "ask the gunwriters" forum).