Day with M70 Alaskan

Scotty

I would reshoot 72.5 grains of IMR4350, WW case, CCI250 primer and see what it does.
If you get sub MOA, which I think you will, 3100 fps is a smokin' load! It will shoot flat and hit hard.
FWIW, I pole axed my elk at 350 yds using my 338 RUM and a 210 gr PT at 3200 fps.

JD338
 
JD338":mnhzgjn4 said:
Scotty

I would reshoot 72.5 grains of IMR4350, WW case, CCI250 primer and see what it does.
If you get sub MOA, which I think you will, 3100 fps is a smokin' load! It will shoot flat and hit hard.
FWIW, I pole axed my elk at 350 yds using my 338 RUM and a 210 gr PT at 3200 fps.

JD338

Sounds good Jim, I will go down and load up a few of them for trying tomorrow.
 
and make a 4th or 5th round.

Easier/cheaper to pull than driving back out. :wink: :wink: :wink:
 
FOTIS":tka1wnl1 said:
and make a 4th or 5th round.

Easier/cheaper to pull than driving back out. :wink: :wink: :wink:

I have 12 of each actually, so if they work out, I can zero at 250 and be done with it. Learned my lesson. Your right, much easier to pull than drive. Time costs money!
 
Now If I would follow my own advice!


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I know. I always tell folks to load 4. It is humbling when the rifle sets you down and lets you know who is in charge...
 
The old Model 70's had a way of humbling everybody. I know that I have been taken to the woodshed by a couple of them out of the (20) or so that I have owned. That is all part of the allure and challenge. When you get it right, you feel that you have accomplished something.
 
SJB358":2sg7683e said:
FOTIS":2sg7683e said:
and make a 4th or 5th round.

Easier/cheaper to pull than driving back out. :wink: :wink: :wink:

I have 12 of each actually, so if they work out, I can zero at 250 and be done with it. Learned my lesson. Your right, much easier to pull than drive. Time costs money!

Excellent plan Scotty.

JD338
 
Don't feel alone, bud. Mine shot well with 72.0, but I forgot.... my tripod for the chrono. No clue what they were running! :oops:
 
I forgot.... my tripod for the chrono. No clue what they were running!

Were I guessing, I'd guess about sufficient to smash an elk. :mrgreen:
 
DrMike":31u0ckc1 said:
Were I guessing, I'd guess about sufficient to smash an elk. :mrgreen:

I'd guess you're correct, Doc. Doubt any animal would turn to me and say "You know, if you had another grain in there I'd have fallen..."
 
Based on anecdotal information and personal experience with the .338 WM, I would hazard a guess on that load being over 2900 fps in velocity in Scotty's rifle. It definitely will smash an elk and make him lay down, DRT, with no comment!
 
Oldtrader3":2dsr3byf said:
Based on anecdotal information and personal experience with the .338 WM, I would hazard a guess on that load being over 2900 fps in velocity in Scotty's rifle. It definitely will smash an elk and make him lay down, DRT, with no comment!

I do agree even of you're off +/- 100 fps! Which you're not!
 
Oldtrader3":1z6u717h said:
The old Model 70's had a way of humbling everybody. I know that I have been taken to the woodshed by a couple of them out of the (20) or so that I have owned. That is all part of the allure and challenge. When you get it right, you feel that you have accomplished something.

Oh good Lord...and I have TWO I'm working on!!!!!!

I actually think the 300H&H might be in good shape. Had good groups (just over an inch) with a 200gr AB recently, but some hard extraction. Might be because I neck-sized that brass, though, as even sized/prepped brass from that neck-size batch opens hard.

Given hunting season is nigh, I may just FL size for now and dicker with die settings over winter/spring as I get into load work again.

Scotty, that 338 shows some real promise. You're gonna love hunting with it, man! Can't wait to see some antlers strapped to your back and that rifle in your hand!
 
Tom, your .300 H&H is shooting well enough to go hunting certainly. Actually, it looks pretty solid. The .30-06 looks somewhat (just a little) randomly wandering still but with some disciplied twiddling, you will get it to shoot, I am sure. Plus, I am jealous of the deal that you got!
 
Thanks, Charlie. I'm thinking of running a batch of my best load in that 06 and doing as Scotty did here with the fore screw to see if that brings it in line.

I should check the front trigger guard screw, too, and make sure I didn't give it a little too much torque.

By the way, Scotty hooked me up good with how to fix the pitting I mentioned that happened on the H&H. I carefully used Flitz to remove most of the roughness, then did some cold blue touch up and it looks as good as it's gonna get without having the pits polished out and the barrel reblued professionally.

I'll bet, though, with that '06 I can dial 'er in with the fore end screw tension.

I'm still really pleased with the deal on the '06 that I got. It's no collector's dream, but as a hunting-capable pre-64, it's a sweetheart. Rigged with that Minox ZA-3, I'm really pleased with it. I may still get a leather lace-on cheek piece for it, just to make it easier to shoot it. That may also account for some of the vertical stringing I saw, come to think of it....it's hard to have a consistent interface with the rifle with the deep drop to the stock.
 
Finding any shooter .300 H&H, Model 70, Pre 64 rifle is a great deal nowadays. They are sweethearts to load for and shoot. I am glad that the Flitz worked for you on the rust blooms. I need to get some for an older J frame S&W, .32 Long, 3 inch that has just a few little rust blooms on the grip frame. The rest of the gun (1962 Vintage) looks great and is 98% blue.

You may want to look at the torque on the rear screw for the .30-06 as well. I always set the rear action screw at about 40-45 inch pounds and then start fiddling with the barrel screw torque. My barrel screw torque settings were never as high as Scotty's, more like 25-35 inch pounds and then Locitite. You will figure it out I am sure, just be methodical about it and you will get it under control.
 
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