Die choices....help.

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I'm starting to get set up for reloading again after a hiatus of a few years. Bottom line, I need an indoor hobby for winter months and reloading is something I like doing now that I've got a little more time on my hands.

I'm going to start with my 6.5 Creedmoor as it gets the most range time, I've got a very accurate rifle chambered in it, I like shooting it, and I've got a mound of once fired brass.

So, looking at dies- I can get some $40 Hornady Custom Grade, some $75 Hornady Match Grade and $40 in neck bushings, or some $200 LE Wilson Match grade dies. That's a pretty broad range of pricing and I understand that controlling tolerances is the driving factor for the price differences.

That said, I've always used Custom Grade previously and had acceptable results for my hunting rifles- are the match grade dies worth the difference in price? Can a middling loader get better results with them or is it best left to guys chasing bugholes at 1000yds?
 
Very often the decent inexpensive dies such as RCBS standard dies will give excellent results, but, its more a question of how well/accurately dies are set up, as well as brass preparation, that will determine the standard or quality of results achieved.

Also, care taken and accuracy of your bullet seating die will help aid concentric rounds minimising bullet run out.
Good luck with a rewarding additional shooting interest. (y)
 
Having used them all I prefer RCBS and Redding to Hornady although they all work. Forster Would be where I would look at from now on after getting some for my 270 Win.
 
I use a very specific combo of dies personally. I prefer Lee collet neck sizing dies and Forster micrometer seating dies. I'm sure the Redding is nice too, but I don't like the RCBS version with the cut out for the bullet. Universal decapping die and a Redding body die to bump the shoulders/size the case body when necessary. Most of those are really reasonably priced, but the micrometer seating die is going to be about $100.
 
grry10":34yazb4l said:
I agree with gerry. I price is a problem I might also look at CH4D dies.

Price isn't necessarily the problem- just wondering where the higher end dies fit on the "value for money" spectrum for better grade hunting ammunition.

It seems with a lot of reloading gear, there's a certain amount of precision available for sale that the average guy just can't realize in practice...sort of like folks buying 1 ton diesels to commute to the office.

If the advantage is there and I can realize the benefit, I'd spend the money but if that money is better spent on something else- say a better case trimmer....that's where I'd want it to go.
 
I also agree with gerry. I have been using RCBS dies for 50 plus years. I do believe that there are tools out there which would probably provide me with more accurate reloads, but how much more accuracy do you need? All 4 of my primary shooting rifles will shoot under 1/2 MOA, like Elmer, I think that slow and careful preparation will get you the accuracy you need. Most of my reloading stuff is very old as are most of my rifles but they shoot well, and I think that having the ability to build my ammunition, has really helped me get the best out of them that I can.
 
I have made very fine ammunition with Lee and Lyman dies. I prefer Forster dies, Redding and RCBS, in that order. I have Hornady and CH4D dies for a few cartridges. All alike made good ammunition if I took care to set them up carefully. I don't know that higher end dies are necessarily a better value. Of all the dies, Lyman are my least favourite, primarily because they can be rough and there is no warranty on them. Redding and RCBS are well made and seldom require any servicing. There is a reason why Forster dies are called "Benchrest." Having said all that, it really does come down to a point of preference. For hunting ammunition, buy what is available at a reasonable price and make some excellent hunting loads.
 
I should also mention I like the Lee collet die combined with a Redding body die for sizing brass like was mentioned earlier in the thread.
 
I have a combination of dies from Lyman to Redding since I have been reloading rifle and pistol ammo since the 1960's.
I have been buying Redding dies lately because of the precision with what they are made and the customer service they provide. I have bought their regular dies and added a micrometer seating stem for them which they sell for their dies. You can also buy their premium dies which I believe comes with that seating stem but I had already bought the dies and found that not all bullets are made the same coming out of the same lot and don't seat to the same OAL with out adjustment of the stem and the micro seating stem makes life easier and if you should choose to shoot Berger bullets you will need a seating stem just for them due to the long nose and you don't want to seat them off the tip.
Dollar for dollar I think you get your moneys worth with the Redding dies.
 
I have fifty years worth of RCBS dies and have spare parts. It's a mail order deal to get parts. Just have had no problems with RCBS but I'm not a bench rest shooter.
 
I have used RCBS when I first started off reloading, and moved up to Redding FL with and without bushings and its micrometer seaters. Never looked back. All of my rifles uses Redding dies. I only have one 20 year old RCBS full sizer for my .308 to size virgin brass and a new .308 Redding Type S full sizer w/ bushing is on its way. I have not chose anything else because Redding has worked well for me. I was a phone call away to get a Whidden FL for the .308 but was not going to wait 8 to 12 weeks turn around time.
 
Hodgeman, I'm not sure that controlling tolerances is the primary difference in price. I think more has to due with volume produced; more volume = less cost per unit and complexity. Complexity being micrometer's & external finish add a lot of expense but once load workup is done they don't make much difference. A lot of benchrest ammo is made on the cheaper dies, some using "cheap" Lee Collet dies.

Just my $0.004239, but I really believe that the next grade up from the $30-$40 Hornady Custom grade is for guys chasing bug holes. Full disclaimer, I have RCBS, LEE dies but I mainly use the Hornady Custom Grade dies with the microjust seating stem - https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/hornad ... ogId=10051.
 
For what its worth....I can afford any die I want, I chose the "Cheap" Lee collet die on purpose....
 
I'm not sure if my original point was articulated properly; but the Hornady Match Grade dies or any dies using bushings or micrometers are marketed for the hand loaders who like to tinker and shoot well enough to see differences in neck tension - i.e. shooters who are capable of and like to chase bug hole groups. For hand loaders who set it and forget it after load development, the bushings, micrometer and other options to tinker, add complexity and cost without much long term return on investment.

For example, if you are annealing brass you very well might benefit from a neck bushing die, as you are already paying attention to and modifying the neck tension. If you are not annealing your brass, the neck bushings don't contribute much as you end up fighting against brass that is being worked hardened.

For what its worth....I can afford any die I want, I chose the "Cheap" Lee collet die on purpose....
+1

Lee Collet dies are awesome once you get them dialed in and as noted I own them. Lee seating dies also make very accurate ammo - some of my best 280 Rem loads have been made with a lee collet and lee seating die. I do prefer the Hornady bullet seating dies & stems, but the Redding dies that use a spring with the seating sleeve seems to reduce run-out.

I like micrometers for dies that get used with multiple rifles. For dies that are married to a rifle, I don't want a micrometer as they have a high profile and I always seem to be bumping into them. But then I'm clumsy and "weird"...
 
I run bunch of Forster and Redding dies. Have plenty of RCBS as well. Redding and Forster's turn out pretty straight ammo for me. I do not use any of the decapping/expanding assemblies though. I bought a mandrel die from Sinclair awhile back on Mike's advice and I use that for all of my neck expanding duties. I have no issues whatsoever with FL dies set up to minimally size the cases to fit my chamber.

So, bottom line, I'd buy a good set of Redding FL dies/Seater and a mandrel die set from Sinclair (works for many cartridges, just swap out of the mandrel). For just about every cartridge I use it resizes the neck for a .003-.004" neck tension and my stuff turns out pretty straight.
 
I am going back to the original question .
are the match grade dies worth the difference in price? Can a middling loader get better results with them or is it best left to guys chasing bug holes at 1000yds?
My answer is a profound "no", and "yes". There are so many variables to the answer. Are bug hole groups necessary to consistently take game? Does the shooter have the skills to shoot those bug hole groups? Does he/she have the appropriate hardware, regardless of the loading ? Does the rifle/scope combination really have the quality to shoot such groups? Without these elements in place, the price and quality of the dies are inconsequential. For instance my off the shelf !965 Model 70 will shoot 1 inch three shot groups at 300 yards, using ammo loaded with a set of standard RCBS dies, purchased in 1970, and a Herters Press purchased in the 60's. Could I get better accuracy with top of the line dies? Maybe, but how much? Do I need more? I don't think so. My second example is my .308, Remington Tactical which is just a few years old. It does shoot bug hole groups, as small as .198 at 100 yards. Just how much smaller can it do? Can I shoot better than that? Do I need smaller groups? Again the same answer is i don't think so. Competition shooters need to wring every bit of accuracy out of there hardware to be competitive. They spend thousands of dollars on rifle/scope combinations, thousands of hours and rounds of range time to hone their skills, thousands of dollars on reloading equipment, all in order to get to the last .01 of an inch. But most hunters do not need that extra .01 inch, the majority will get through there hunting life without that extra .01
 
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