Elk Rifle

[SJB358]

Since you have three years you have the time to learn how to shoot any reasonable elk caliber. I would encourage you to get a properly fitted stock, Limbsaver recoil pad, and a recoil reduction device like a Vias muzzle brake.


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I'll be the muzzle brake nay sayer.. If you get the first two Vince mentioned, no 338 Win Mag will need the 3rd. I just put the McMillan on my 338 and it fits like a glove and I find it's recoil very easy on me. Much much different than the old wood stock.

 

[ColColt]

I remember reading somewhere recently where Jack O'Connor had only lost one animal, an Elk, due to poor bullet construction and/or caliber. I can't recall what he was using but he indicated Elk must be armor plated an went out and bought a 35 Whelen. He took it to a Buffalo hunt in case anyone wanted to use it. No one did and considered it a "small canon". IIRC, he got most Elk with the 270 and at least one with the 7mm Rem Mag. He sold the Whelen.

 

[pre6422hornet]

Since you have three years you have the time to learn how to shoot any reasonable elk caliber. I would encourage you to get a properly fitted stock, Limbsaver recoil pad, and a recoil reduction device like a Vias muzzle brake.


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I'll be the muzzle brake nay sayer.. If you get the first two Vince mentioned, no 338 Win Mag will need the 3rd. I just put the McMillan on my 338 and it fits like a glove and I find it's recoil very easy on me. Much much different than the old wood stock.

I would second this. I am new to the 338wm game, but I can say it is very easy to shoot off the bench. I would invest in a PAST recoil shield. Works wonders.

Besides, rifles don't recoil when shot at game. At least you don't feel it. :grin:

 

[Blkram]

Also having taken over 20 elk through the years, and having used both the 7mm Rem Mag and the 338 Win Mag on several bull elk, I have seen quicker, cleaner kills with the 338 Win Mag shooting the 210 Nosler Partition loaded by Federal. The bulls taken with the 7mm Rem Mag were with the 165 Sierra Gameking as loaded by Federal, usually died quick and clean, but I found that they tended to travel further after the initial shot, with the 7mm vs the 338, when shot in the vitals (usually double lung/heart shots).

Elk have the densest bone of any animal in North America, and when heated up in the rut can be extremely hard to put down cleanly with one shot, and it takes the heavier bullet to penetrate to the vitals on quartering shots if that heavy bone is encountered.

I would tend to ask what part of the season you are going to be hunting, and in what terrain/cover type. This could be a determining factor in which may be the better choice on paper. But the real decision should come down to which rifle you shoot better and have more confidence in.

This is easy if you own both now.
If you do not, try to borrow rifles in these two calibers and take them out and shoot a box through each rifle before deciding on which to purchase. A small in investment in time and ammunition can make a big difference in how happy you will be after spending a large chunk of change only to find out that the 338 you really wanted, was not such a great investment, if it is beating you up with heavy loads.

An keep in mind, while muzzle brakes are great off the bench for reducing felt recoil, they are not usually welcomed by guides in the field that are beside or behind you, that cannot see the bullet impact on that bull elk when the dirt/dust/grass/leaves/snow is flying from the muzzle blast created by that brake! An neither will you. If you have never been around a braked rifle, try it from sitting and prone positions on the ground at the range. You'll see what I mean quick enough.

 

[wisconsinteacher]

I do own both a .338wm and 7mmRM so I will be able to shoot them both and take them both on the trip. I will be hunting in NW WY the first week of October. I was told to be able to shoot out to 400. Looking at the drop calculator, a 275 zero I would be 4" high at 100 and 14" low at 400 yards. I know I would have to test it out and check but that looks better than the 200 yard zero.

 

[Rem Jim]

I'd give the nod to the 338 Win Mag and use the 7mm Rem Mag as a back up.

JD338

YUP ! Elk are tuff buggers ! :grin: RJ

 

[SJB358]

I do own both a .338wm and 7mmRM so I will be able to shoot them both and take them both on the trip. I will be hunting in NW WY the first week of October. I was told to be able to shoot out to 400. Looking at the drop calculator, a 275 zero I would be 4" high at 100 and 14" low at 400 yards. I know I would have to test it out and check but that looks better than the 200 yard zero.

I don't like to be more than about 3" high at 100 WT. Reason being is more shots will be taken at 250 or less than 400. At least in my young hunting life. That'll still net you a 250 yard zero as well and probably keep you on elk hide out to 325 without much thought. Run the ballistics, proof your load from hunting positions and assess your abilities. Only you can say if your comfortable. If your not, most of them elk will let you get closer anyhow. I don't like passing up solid shots but then again I don't like to miss or wound animals. The rifle you shoot the best from the ground should be your ace in the lineup.

 

[Ridgerunner665]

Yeah...250 yard zero is plenty I think...I use it on all my rifles...longer zero ranges will come back and bite you on shorter shots if you're not used to it....learned that the hard way.

 

[Elkman]

My 300 WM is sighted in for 3.8 inches high a 100 yards. That puts it dead on at 300 and about 10 inches low at 400. If I am in a hurry I can just hold, high shoulder and take the shot. I have looked at my data (50+) years, a number of times and believe my "average" elk, was shot at 300 yards. As I was sitting here pondering on this, I thought about recent history. In the last 4 years I have killed 6 elk. Five out of the 6 were at 300 plus, the other was probably 75. The reason I think, is that I am either in the timber with them or they are across the canyon. Just my two cents. I have yet to shoot "over" one at close range, they are really big!!!

 

[Ridgerunner665]

Elkman,
I agree with that...I'm out of my element when talking about elk, I've seen them plenty of times...but never hunted them, yet.

The biggest critters I've hunted are deer and black bear...my reply above is based on me and my preference for a high shoulder shot on deer....a 30-06 sighted for 300 yards, quick shot on a deer at 125 yards, out of habit aimed for the high shoulder shot...didn't end as planned.

But it did end...only because after the deer ran all the way across the field (430 yards) on the other side of the grown up fence row, he decided to cross the fence into the field and stop and see what was going on...by then I had remembered how I had the rifle zero'd...got him with that one.

The first one just creased his back...it would have healed.

 

[Oldtrader3]

I prefer using the 200 yard zero for most rifles. This puts them all at 3.00 inches high or less at 100 yards.

 

[Vince]

I prefer using the 200 yard zero for most rifles. This puts them all at 3.00 inches high or less at 100 yards.

I too zero at 200.
Of course I'm using a ballistic drop reticle and following the scope maker's instructions. By being zeroed at 200 Yards I can get to 800 Yards pretty accurately, with one rifle, using the computer program on the Zeiss website. The other two Zeiss scopes get me out to 600 yards based on their reticle.
Nothing is more than 3" above, or below, my point of aim.

Vince

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[OU812]

I do own both a .338wm and 7mmRM so I will be able to shoot them both and take them both on the trip. I will be hunting in NW WY the first week of October. I was told to be able to shoot out to 400. Looking at the drop calculator, a 275 zero I would be 4" high at 100 and 14" low at 400 yards. I know I would have to test it out and check but that looks better than the 200 yard zero.

Elk are big animals with large a vital zone. What you are thinking will work just fine as long as you shoot at those distances and verify your drop. When it comes to elk I like to keep things as simple as possible and holding right at the top of the back at 400 yards don't get any easier.

On the other hand you have plenty of time to trying a 200 yard zero and turn turrets out to 400 and in between and see how that works for you.

 

[Vince]

I do own both a .338wm and 7mmRM so I will be able to shoot them both and take them both on the trip. I will be hunting in NW WY the first week of October. I was told to be able to shoot out to 400. Looking at the drop calculator, a 275 zero I would be 4" high at 100 and 14" low at 400 yards. I know I would have to test it out and check but that looks better than the 200 yard zero.

Elk are big animals with large a vital zone. What you are thinking will work just fine as long as you shoot at those distances and verify your drop. When it comes to elk I like to keep things as simple as possible and holding right at the top of the back at 400 yards don't get any easier.

On the other hand you have plenty of time to trying a 200 yard zero and turn turrets out to 400 and in between and see how that works for you.

If I didn't use a BDC reticle is be turning turrets. Also, if I was shooting further than my self imposed maximum of 600 yards, I'd be turning turrets.

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[Vince]

I do own both a .338wm and 7mmRM so I will be able to shoot them both and take them both on the trip. I will be hunting in NW WY the first week of October. I was told to be able to shoot out to 400. Looking at the drop calculator, a 275 zero I would be 4" high at 100 and 14" low at 400 yards. I know I would have to test it out and check but that looks better than the 200 yard zero.

Elk are big animals with large a vital zone. What you are thinking will work just fine as long as you shoot at those distances and verify your drop. When it comes to elk I like to keep things as simple as possible and holding right at the top of the back at 400 yards don't get any easier.

On the other hand you have plenty of time to trying a 200 yard zero and turn turrets out to 400 and in between and see how that works for you.

If I didn't use a BDC reticle is be turning turrets. Also, if I was shooting further than my self imposed maximum of 600 yards, I'd be turning turrets.

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