Flash Hole Uniformity
- Thread starter Rem 700
- Start date
blacktailhunter
Beginner
- Jul 29, 2007
- 95
- 0
I haven't and won't de-burr any flash holes. Unless you have a custom rifle that is capable of sub .25" groups consistently, I wouldn't bother. Sure, it may increase accuracy, but I doubt you could tell the difference even in a good shooting hunting rifle.
- Thread starter
- #4
OK, but what about using a "very low drag" chamfer tool. I have been using the RCBS 45 degree angle tool, but am wondering if I should switch to the 22 degree tool. I shoot AB's and BT's and the reviews for the VLD chamfer tools suggest this tool for the boatail bullets. What are your thoughts?
I havn't got one of the VLD ones yet or I would be using it. I noticed the other day when I was seating some BTs that they were getting a bit scuffed by the case mouth. I did reem them good but I think the combination of it being new brass and the 45 degree angle don't help much.
- Nov 4, 2004
- 25,509
- 9,446
I do not worry about the flash hole. The only thing I do is use a Primer Pocket Uniformer to ensure that the primer pockets are square.
JD338
JD338
rick smith
Handloader
- Apr 6, 2005
- 1,249
- 0
I normally do the primer pockets, sometimes the flash hole. I use the Sinclair VLD chamfer tool and find it to be much better than a standard tool for inside neck deburring. I am due to get a custom 30/06 this week and have the brass fully prepped to include neck turning, just enough to uniform the necks. Nosler brass by the way. Lilja #4 fluted barrel 22", Rem 700LA, Jewell Trigger, a McMillan stock 60% OD green, 20% tan, 20% dark brown.Rick.
DrMike
Ballistician
- Nov 8, 2006
- 37,506
- 6,521
I've done it all. It probably doesn't make much difference if your rifle and the recipe chosen shoots groups bigger than 0.2". It doesn't hurt, but you are not hurt if you don't ream the flash holes. The VLD chamfer tool can be a real help on many bullets, but it seems primarily to avoid cosmetic flaws.
Powerstroke
Handloader
- Feb 24, 2006
- 1,800
- 71
I never have done the flash hole until I ended up with my .300RUM.....
You'll find some brass is ok, while others are terrible.... I figured anything I could do to help light the fire in that large case was a bennefit.
I can tell you @ least for that .300RUM there are some pretty large burrs / punch pieces inside the Rem Brass.
You'll find some brass is ok, while others are terrible.... I figured anything I could do to help light the fire in that large case was a bennefit.
I can tell you @ least for that .300RUM there are some pretty large burrs / punch pieces inside the Rem Brass.
I always de-burr the flash holes of all my rifle cases. I shoot a lot of military surplus rifles and most have big ol sloppy chambers and you would think that the de-burring of a flash hole would not make much difference in accuracy. WRONG! My findings have been that it does increase the accuracy of a load and tightens groups up greatly. Have you ever asked yourself where that flier in that otherwise good shot group came from? Most people pass it off as trigger jerk, bad hold or what ever. I am convinced that most of the time my fliers were caused by inconsistent ignition of the powder cause by the burrs around the flash holes. When I started de-burring the flash holes a whole lot of my fliers went away and my groups shrank. Where I really saw great improvement in accuracy of my rifles and loads were with my, mostly custom barreled, rifles. The groups at long range really got tighter with cases that had the flash holes de-burred. Oh! by the way. Lapua cases have no burrs because they drill their flash holes.
- Thread starter
- #12
Antelope_Sniper
Handloader
- Jan 25, 2008
- 2,618
- 0
I deburr for everything except pistols, and the AR.
