Foam Cleaners ??

Powerstroke

Handloader
Feb 24, 2006
1,800
71
Most of my experience is with the smaller .222 / .223 / 6PPC when cleaning ( without the foaming cleaners ) Seems as always and stated elsewhere it always takes one "fouler" shot to get it back on.
Question is....I just started using the foaming cleaner ( appears to work excellent too ) But....I had a combo worked up for my .300RUM. I cleaned the heck out of things and took it one last time before hunting season to shoot. First shot...six inches to the left of norm.... second shot a couple inches to the right of norm... third shot a little closer and the last two exactly where I sighted it in at.....Is it normal to have to put three or four rounds through it for it to come back in after a good scrubbing? ( Only had five shells with me, couldn't shoot another )
 
Powerstroke,

I haven't used any foam cleaners yet but for conventional cleaning, 1-2 foulers and I am ready to go.

JD338
 
All I use anymore is WipeOut - a foaming bore cleaner. I figure 2 rounds and I am set to go. This is consistent with my 280, 308 and 22-250 as well as the boys 30-06 and two 270's.

Long
 
I haven't got any real data (as I have just started using foam cleaners and am in the middle of load development on several rifles, so I expect some variation on shots at start charges), but I can tell you that my experience so far is that rifles are pretty much oil, wax, grease, and fouling free after being foamed. They're basically "in the white" and will rust like a banshee if left unoiled (like in about a day or less). It comes out easy, but oil the bore after foaming, for sure.

The reason I mention all that is to emphasize that I think the multiple fouling shots are required because it's like shooting an unconditioned bore for the first couple of shots. I don't think it hurts the gun, just that it is so clean (and has so little oil of any kind in the pores) that it will shoot odd before you condition it again. If it shoots where you aim it after three shots, then that should be your regimen from here on out.
 
Thanks guys.
I have one more weekend before D-day so I may try and get out and put 5 more though it just so I know. ( Always have the .280 for tried and true performance / back-up )

Does make sense on the cleaning however.....that stuff really appears to work well. I'd agree with the oiling afterwards, other than it's a SS Barrel and I'm in CO = no humidity = no rust = too darn dry here. I'll give that a try after hunting season though !
 
Yeah, I oil the crap out of mine, and let it soak in for a few days, then patch it a few times (3-4 patches run through the bore, no solvent) prior to a range trip. But I live in Alabama, which equals high humidity most of the time, so I probably have more issue with rust. Actually had a steel door that I had to sand and repaint (thanks to the dogs) just about rust before my eyes one time a few years back. I sanded the whole thing down in one area, and then cleaned it with denatured alcohol, and then primed and painted. Whole process took maybe 30 minutes before the first coat of primer was on. Let the primer dry for an hour, second coat, 1 hour, coat of paint, 1 hour, second coat. Looked great. Rehung the door only to come out the next morning to find three rust spots about the size of coins peeking through the paint at me! I was amazed. I stripped the whole thing down again and rushed through everything up to primer coat #2, and it worked out alright. I was shocked, but now you know why I oil my bores well.
 
dubyam,

I hear you. We're a little spoiled in that aspect here. I'm in the Auto repair business.....fairly easy to work on things here, we always cringe when we get a vehicle from back east and see the issues that lay hidden.
 
POP
Welcome back.....
Let me know what you think when you try it out.
I think I'll head back to Pawnee this weekend just to make sure everything is ok. ( Can't believe how trashed that place is )
 
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