Forearm Reenforement

[truck driver]

I have been battling my M77 338Wm trying to find a consistent load. The action has been in 2 stocks, the factory and a used Hogue I purchased which was a pillar bedded model and I could never find consistency except with the factory stock but even it was iffy.
I had what I thought was a good day at the range with it yesterday after putting it back in the factory stock. I had previously opened up the barrel channel and thought I had free floated the barrel but apparently there was still pressure and the forearm was flexing with very little pressure applied which was discovered by a local gun smith at a GS I visit regularly.
He found there was still pressure on the barrel and said I should relieve the clearance for the barrel more. He also said that by using carbon fiber arrow scraps I could fill in the pockets in the forearm with pieces of the shafts and use bedding compound to hold them in place. The idea being the stiff arrow shafts would be light weight and when epoxied in place would add considerable stiffness and prevent the forearm from flexing. The shop also sells archery equipment and he had a bunch of arrow scraps and gave me a handful so I could cut them to fit and epoxy them into the forearm.
I roughed up the interior of the pockets with a dremil tool and degreased the stock.
Mixed up some devcon and laid a bed of epoxy into the pockets for the pieces of arrow shafts to rest in. I also applied a layer of epoxy over the pieces of shaft to fill all the voids so no water could lay in the forearm and freeze when hunting.
Here's a few cell phone pictures of the work done but not yet completed since the epoxy needs to cure.

 

[5shot]

Should work great.

 

[hereinaz]

The budget savage axis stocks, and others are notoriously flexible. This marginally improves the axis stocks, but can do more for other styles. A google search will locate how they do it, very similar to yours.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[EOD Diver]

Take a peek at the Midway video on YouTube by Larry Potterfield. He does something similar using a stainless rod. It. It might be of help.
V/R,
Joe

 

[truck driver]

Thanks for the ideas fellows. I was going to bed a piece of 1/2" aluminum angle in the forearm before the GS suggested the the carbon fiber arrow pieces.
This is only a temporary fix to see if the rifle will shoot before I take the plunge and put it in a McMillan.

 

[Darkhorse]

That should work well Truck driver. I did sorta the same thing, well maybe not but I had the same problem and was looking for the same results, with my old M700. It had been in the gunsafe for 15 years without being fired and when I decided to hunt with it again I found the forend had warped up and right and had actually wore blueing off the barrel just sitting there. I tried to sight it in but it was all over the target.
This was a walnut BDL stock and I removed wood from the entire barrel channel until the barrel was free floating, then took some more out so there was a bigger gap than normal. I took a little more off the bottom and sides about 1/2" below the top of the barrel channel. My thoughts were this would add support and help prevent further warping when I glassed the barrel.
I bedded the first 2 inches above the lug tight with Accra Gel, I had applied 2 thickness's of Electrical tape to the rest of the barrel. At the same time I bedded the tang, lug, and behind the lug.
After hardening I was able to easily slip a dollar between the stock and barrel.
The rifles accuracy was very much improved. This was around 5 years ago and the barrel has yet to warp or move.

 

[preacher]

I guess I don't see how "sections" really stiffen a forearm...not saying it doesn't. I "have" had an older Remington synthetic bedded full length with a 1/4" square aluminum bar bedded in it, with upward pressure that worked. Interested in how your job turns out.

 

[truck driver]

I guess I don't see how "sections" really stiffen a forearm...not saying it doesn't. I "have" had an older Remington synthetic bedded full length with a 1/4" square aluminum bar bedded in it, with upward pressure that worked. Interested in how your job turns out.

I wasn't sure they would do a whole lot either but I figured why not so I went ahead and cut the pieces to fit the sections with a little clearance so they would be supported in the devcon and then covered again with devcon to lock everything in place.
Once the epoxy had a full 24hr set the forearm appears to have stiffened a good bit but I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet.

 

[BretN]

I would think it would stiffen it some. I guess it kinda depends on how flexible it was to start with. I have a Remington that could certainly use it, but my synthetic plastic Tikka stock hardly moves so I wouldn't bother with that one.

How much weight did it add to the stock TD? Will be interested to see how it performs for you at the range. Let us know.

Bret

 

[truck driver]

Bret it probably only added a couple of ounces since the carbon shaft pieces only weighed a few grams and there was about an ounce of epoxy used. Weight was the main reason for not going with the aluminum angle.
After doing it I probably would have found or bought some used whole shafts and epoxied them in the barrel channel cutting out the pocket dividers so they would fit. That might have made it a little stiffer.
Need to get a break in the rain so I can see what if any improvements it makes.

 

[SJB358]

That should be interesting. I was wondering if making a full length shaft would have tied it all together.

I think you're on the right track. If it shoots, drop it into a McM and call it a day.

 

[PJGunner]

I have a rifle given to me by a close friend shortly before his death. Just an old J.C. Higgins M50 Mauser that he'd restocked. On a hunt one day I literally fell off a cliff and the stock was broken. I tried a couple of stock I had on hand but nothing seemed to work. I found a Butler Creek stock at a gun show and put it on the rifle. Felt pretty good and fit me well. Problem was it didn't worth spit. Forearm was quite flexible. Also, the stock "boomed" like a drum every time I bumped into something. I got so expanding foam to fill the butt portion and forearm. Treated it just as if I was doing a glass bed job. No reinforcing rod down the middle of the forearm. Gave it a couple of days to be sure it was set up and put the gun back together. Had to remove all the tape. I took it to the range but it required sighting it in again. Once done it has held zero and groups run right at one inch.
I have another Butler Creek stock that came on an FN commercial Mauser that the previous owner had filled the forearm with epoxy. Dunno if it has a reinforcing bar or not. All I know is it in that Butler Creek stock is one of the most accurate .270s I've ever shot. The guy even threw in the factory wood stock as well which he also glass bedded. Gun is accurate in that stock as well.
I'm thinking the OP's stock has enough epoxy on the arrow shaft pieces that rigidity should no long be a problem. I guess the shooting will tell the tale.
Paul B.

 

[preacher]

I agree with the epoxy being reinforced with the sections its probably stiff as its going to be! I once traded for an older "Alaskan" Interarms X .458 WM that had a big crack repaired at the wrist. It was pinned and Accraglassed. You could throw that thing off a 10 story building and it wouldn't break, ha! I do think its smart to narrow down the accuracy potential of a big gun ( well, to "me" .338 WM falls into that category) before one spends around $700+ for a custom synthetic. When I see any 338 WM for sale at a gunshow, "along with" the dies, and several makes of bullets and bullet weights...I keep walking! ha. If its a bonafide good shooter, he should sell them separately as far, far too many "problem rifles" are foisted off at such venues.

 

[SJB358]

I agree with the epoxy being reinforced with the sections its probably stiff as its going to be! I once traded for an older "Alaskan" Interarms X .458 WM that had a big crack repaired at the wrist. It was pinned and Accraglassed. You could throw that thing off a 10 story building and it wouldn't break, ha! I do think its smart to narrow down the accuracy potential of a big gun ( well, to "me" .338 WM falls into that category) before one spends around $700+ for a custom synthetic. When I see any 338 WM for sale at a gunshow, "along with" the dies, and several makes of bullets and bullet weights...I keep walking! ha. If its a bonafide good shooter, he should sell them separately as far, far too many "problem rifles" are foisted off at such venues.

I look at it like some folks can't master/handle a 338 Win Mag so they are unloading the whole thing.. But I do get your weariness.

 

[truck driver]

I do believe this rifle has potential but the stock is holding it back or was prior to working on the forearm. It would shoot well with 200gr ABs when in the Hogue stock and load work for that bullet was very easy, but the 210gr PT has been difficult. I believe the bullet weight increase caused torquing of the action in the Hogue stock. My 300Bee did the same thing till I put it in a B&C Medalist stock with full action block. Dewey has suggested the Full metal action block Hogue stock and is a cheaper way to go. Most people would be happy with the way it shoots now but I think I can get more out of it. The recoil of the 35 Whelen AI and the 338Wm is very close to being the same from my experience with both. My 35 Whelen AI is the only rifle that has come close to giving me scope eye with a scope with 3.5"- 4" eye relief and will occasionally knock my hat off when it hits the hat bill shooting from a bench. :lol:

 

[truck driver]

Well I must have done something right because this the best group fired yet with this bullet powder combo.

 

[Cleveland48]

Do believe I'd be happy with that!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[BretN]

That looks pretty good. That'll kill elk probably as far as you are comfortable shooting them. I wouldn't do much more than verify the accuracy, and practice, practice, practice. Especially practice from field positions if your range allows it.

 

[SJB358]

That looks pretty good. That'll kill elk probably as far as you are comfortable shooting them. I wouldn't do much more than verify the accuracy, and practice, practice, practice. Especially practice from field positions if your range allows it.

That is about all I could say myself. From a 338, that'll take game a long way.

 

[FOTIS]

That looks good and should suffice at any 338 Win mag range....provided it is consistent.