Free Floating 700 Mtn

[ldg397]

I have a remington 700 LSS mtn I have decided to remove the pressure point. I used the old deep well socket and sand paper and it came out really slick. The question is how much clearance is adequate? I took a regular sheet of paper and folded once or two thicknesses passes easily around the barrel. Folded again or four thicknesses passes but has a slight hitch in it at the old pressure point location. Is this deep enough or should we go a little more??

Other question is does it hurt to enlarge the action screw holes in the stock to make sure they are not binding the screws?? Also the trigger inlet is very very snug when assembling the rifle is that a good thing or bad thing? Should all the recoil be upon the recoil lug or is it shared amoung other surfaces?

What is a good product to reseal the barrel channel?

Next hopefully I will get up enough courage to bed the rifle!!

 

[1Shot]

As long as a dollar bill will pass under the barrel and stock all the way back to the chamber area of the barrel you are good to go.

Everything in the action area needs to be a solid tight fit. I would glass it myself. It is not hard to do. One of the best bedding kits I have ever used is the Miles Gilbert Bedrock kit. Midway has it Product # 790-049 $21.99 . It has everything you will need and good instructions.

I am not sure what you are talking about the trigger inlet being snug.

The lug area takes most of the recoil but the action needs to be square in the stock with no rocking up and down that will put the action in a bind when you tighten down the screws. A good glass job will take care of this.

True Oil Gun Stock Finish is the best thing I have used to reseal and finish a stock with. Put a light coat on with your fingers in the barrel channel and let it dry 12 hours. Then put another light coat and let it dry. If the wood really soaked up the first coat I would put a third coat on. If you are finishing the outside of a stock you need to buff lightly between coats with 000 steel wool between coats but not after your last coat. For a stock I would apply 4 to 5 coats. It makes it look like 1/4" of glass has been applied to the stock.

Floating the barrel and glassing the action will most often increase the accuracy of your rifle but don't expect to be able to shoot five shot groups and put them in the same hole with that very thin barrel on the MT rifle. You will most often be able to get three shot groups really tight but then the barrel will be too hot and the shots will start to walk some. But it is a hunting rifle and all you want is for it to repeat that one good shot that will put the bullet where it needs to go. Good luck.

 

[FOTIS]

True oil works well.

 

[ldg397]

I will check but a dollar bill should fit through easily.

What I meant about the trigger inlet is I didn't know if I should remove some of the inlet on the back side to be sure the recoil of the gun causes the action/barrel to exert the force on the recoil lug recess and not at the trigger.

My other question was does it hurt anything to oversize the action screw holes. I thought it was not good to have the screws touch wood when the rifle is assembled? they are very tight around the screws right now and I was just wondering if I enlarged them to be sure they don't bind would that hurt anything or does it affect something else I have not considered?

 

[Antelope_Sniper]

You want the action tightly mated to the stock. Do you intend to bed it? Usually if someone is carving around the screw holes, it to make room for pillars to pillar bed the action.

The old rule for room is 1 dollar bill, 2 bills if you intend to seal it.

 

[1Shot]

Don't mess with the screw holes.
If the trigger is not touching the wood you will be all right. I would not remove much if any wood around the trigger. You want all the wood you can get in that area for stability of the stock.
Birchwood Casey makes the Tru-Oil gunstock finish.

 

[YoteSmoker]

Birchwood Casey also makes a stock sealer that can be used in combination with Tru-Oil and Stock Wax. Good stuff!

 

[rick smith]

I always enlarge the screw holes after I bed a rifle, just enough for the screw to slide in/out of the hole without binding. Doesn't hurt anything.Rick.

 

[ldg397]

I decided to go ahead and bed the rifle while I was at it. Only questions I have after reading the instructions is they say to remove stock material at all the bedding surfaces to allow the compound to be thicker, I haven't read about anyone doing that is that necessary.

Has anyone done there own bedding on a Sako 85? If this one works out I may do the Sako next. Does it create any more problems with recoil lug setup?

 

[JD338]

ldg397

Do a search on the web, should be lot of information out there. One thing you may also want to consider is pillar bedding the action. I had a gun smith do mine because I was afraid I would mess it up.

JD338

 

[1Shot]

If you have never glassed a rifle before DON'T try to pillar bed one to start off with. All you need to do is remove a little wood in the recoil lug area and where your front ring will sit and in the tang area. I remove enough wood to allow at least 1/8" of glass bed. I also drill a few holes about 1/4" deep in the front ring area to allow the glass bed to get down in them and it helps the bed really hold. I guess your instructions told you to put a thickness of masking tape on the muzzle side of your recoil lug and on the sides of it. You will need to remove enough wood to allow at least 1/8" glass bed and the tape thickness in this area. After everything is set and dried you remove the tape and this allows you enough clearance to get the action in and out of the stock. As has been said look on the net you should be able to find instructions with video.

 

[ldg397]

My stock is the brown laminate so I was thinking the pillar bedding may not be needed for the laminate I can crank the screws down pretty good and you can't squeeze the stock.

I assume you mean that wood needs to be removed from both sides of recoil lug and tape only on muzzle side? I guess you can't really mess up removing wood as long as it is in area that mates with the action and the bedding will fill it all back up.

Thanks I will post some pictures when I get done.

 

[ldg397]

Well,

I took the leep of faith this afternoon! I spent all week prepping the stock, action, etc with clay release agent probably a good seven or eight hours worth of prep work.

The bedding part took about 15 minutes, now I just wait to see my stunning succes or miserable failure?? I took pictures of everything so I might post them if everything turns out ok! :lol:

or I guess I could do a thread on how not to glass bed a stock!! :lol: :lol:

 

[ldg397]

Well, it turned out amazing. I was really suprised at how well it turned out. The hardest part was cleaning the clay out of the action and figuring out how bolt stop spring went so I could put the trigger back on. I know, I know it is worthless without pics. I took pics I just have to have the time to download and figure out how to post them. Coming soon.

 

[ldg397]

Pics :shock:









Now just have to see how she shoots.

 

[1Shot]

See I told you it was easy. Looks like a great job. Post us a range report please.

 

[ldg397]

Went to the range this weekend. I did a thorough cleaning including some JB and fired a couple of fouling shots and this was the first group down the tube.

I had another set to shoot at 48 grains which I suspect will be the better load and had a AccuBond tip break completely off in the magazine. So this is the only group I got in. But a great start nonetheless.

This was with 30 inch pds of torque on the action screws.

 

[Guest]

You are a brave guy to tackle the bedding job. Glad it worked out good. What caliber is it?

 

[ldg397]

It is a 260 remington, one I assume you are a fan of. I am not done yet I think it can get better, I think the 48 grain load will be better and I still have to do some experimenting with the COL once I pinpoint the charge. What I have been encouraged about most is it seems to be more consistant. It has shot good in the past off and on but seemed to be pretty tempermental and so far the bedding/free floating seems to have helped that.

Just like everyone that has owned one can't say enough about the 260's performance on game. Love the caliber and love the rifle it is packaged in.