glass bedding
- Thread starter old #7
- Start date
honkeetonkin
Handloader
- Mar 8, 2006
- 279
- 0
When you figure it out, lets here about it #7, I have one to do also. Purchaced a product called steel bed but the instructions said the tempurature has to be over 70 degrees. If I get around to mine you will find out how well I did, rick.
YoteSmoker
Handloader
- Oct 3, 2006
- 1,602
- 0
If you don't do anything else right, RELEASE AGENT EVERY POSSIBLE THING, TAPE and PUTTY ALL HOLES, NOOKS, and CRANNYS (whatever a cranny is). Miles Gilbert RockBed comes with everything you need and good instructions. Really simple once you do one or two, but read the instructions twice before you do each step the first time. Good luck!!
REDGREEN
Handloader
- Mar 30, 2006
- 276
- 1
Do you plan on doing a three point bed, pillar bed, full bed, partial float or full float? Also, times two on release agent on everything, because if you screw it up, you'll need an axe to remove your stock.
rick smith
Handloader
- Apr 6, 2005
- 1,249
- 0
Good coat of release agent on all metal parts where the bedding is going to touch and two coats where you don't plan for the bedding to touch 
. I use Johnson paste wax to fill all holes in the metal. Recommend you remove the scope before bedding. Remove or tape up the trigger and apply paste wax to fill all the holes. AcraGlass Gel is easy to use and comes with black/brown stain for the bedding. Follow the instructions, ask questions here if there is something you don't understand. I have bedded quite a few over the past 25yrs and haven't stuck one yet, knock on wood. The Ruger may be a little more difficult to remove the action. Just remember the recoil lug is angled to the rear. Don't forget to put releasing agent on the action screws/trigger guard/floorplate. In the winter, I bring the rifles/bedding material inside and let them reach room temp. before starting. Let them set more than 24hrs before removing the action. I use Q-tips with the wooden stick and acetone to remove excess bedding as it runs out when tightening the action screws. Make sure you remove sufficient wood to give you enough thickness behind the recoil lug. Take your easy, you have plenty of working time. You want to avoid bubbles in the mix/bedding. I use a tooth pick to pop the bubbles. Fill the lug area slowly, little bit of material at a time. If you glob the bedding in that area, you will make bubbles and the job is not as strong or professional looking. Good luck.Rick.
. I use Johnson paste wax to fill all holes in the metal. Recommend you remove the scope before bedding. Remove or tape up the trigger and apply paste wax to fill all the holes. AcraGlass Gel is easy to use and comes with black/brown stain for the bedding. Follow the instructions, ask questions here if there is something you don't understand. I have bedded quite a few over the past 25yrs and haven't stuck one yet, knock on wood. The Ruger may be a little more difficult to remove the action. Just remember the recoil lug is angled to the rear. Don't forget to put releasing agent on the action screws/trigger guard/floorplate. In the winter, I bring the rifles/bedding material inside and let them reach room temp. before starting. Let them set more than 24hrs before removing the action. I use Q-tips with the wooden stick and acetone to remove excess bedding as it runs out when tightening the action screws. Make sure you remove sufficient wood to give you enough thickness behind the recoil lug. Take your easy, you have plenty of working time. You want to avoid bubbles in the mix/bedding. I use a tooth pick to pop the bubbles. Fill the lug area slowly, little bit of material at a time. If you glob the bedding in that area, you will make bubbles and the job is not as strong or professional looking. Good luck.Rick.I add a layer of masking tape to the front (side faceing away from the action, toward the muzzel) of the lug, bottom and sides. This makes it a bit easier to remove the action from the stock if you need to do so at a latter date. Don`t forget to apply release agent to the tape!Remove the tape when you check the job you did when bedding, don`t leave it in.
I`ve never done a Ruger but a M700, M70, M98, ect are not difficult at all.
I`ve never done a Ruger but a M700, M70, M98, ect are not difficult at all.
- Thread starter
- #7
rick smith
Handloader
- Apr 6, 2005
- 1,249
- 0
Thickness is somewhat related to caliber but 1/4"-3/8" should be sufficient. Wood can be removed with sanding drums on a Dremel or their small wood routers. A lot can be removed with a drill motor and drill bit. Just be careful not to drill through the stock. I bought some hardened drill rasps at our local hardware store in various sizes and shapes. I use them for gross removal of wood or plastic and the sanding drums for the smaller jobs. Good sharp chisels will help. If you happen to be glassing any of the plastic type stocks, make sure you clean the area to be glassed with a good solvent like acetone and don't touch.Rick.
- Thread starter
- #9
