Hammer Crowd ?

RL338

Handloader
Mar 23, 2017
3,159
5,078
To crimp or not to crimp. There seems to be a following on crimping Hammers when searching the subject.
How many members on here crimping Hammers?
 
I do also. I have a target where I shot 3 shots each with no crimp, 1/4 turn crimp and a 1/2 turn crimp. The groups got tighter as I increased the crimp.
 
I do also. I have a target where I shot 3 shots each with no crimp, 1/4 turn crimp and a 1/2 turn crimp. The groups got tighter as I increased the crimp.
They do seem to add to uniformity. To keep the crimp the same, once I get the crimp I want, I measure from the top of the die to the press and make a note for the next time.
 

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I haven’t. So far I have gotten very good accuracy without it, and in these days of limited primers and powders I’ll take a sub-MOA group and go with it. To then tweak with a crimp and 1/4 or 1/2 turn @ 3 shots each… Nah.

The one rifle I tried it with I noted zero difference, so that didn’t help my opinion of it.
 
I believe the Hammer forum will convince you to use the Lee FCD. My research on there convinced me. If you keep reading like I did, you will find a big thread about the Lee FCD.
 
Question from a rookie/never have crimper. How does it effect the brass neck on the next resize?
 
Basically blows out to conform to chamber dimensions
Thanks Fotis. Wasn't sure if it would leave a permanent mark/indent on the brass or not. Been thinking of trying it for a couple different cartridges but wasn't sure about that.
 
I don't have and mono's or hammer's, but crimp every cartridge from pistol to rifle to semi to bolt to tube fed to mag fed. All is done with LFCD. The type of crimp is the important part depending on what the cartridge is!
 
They do seem to add to uniformity. To keep the crimp the same, once I get the crimp I want, I measure from the top of the die to the press and make a note for the next time.
This is what I hate with Lee. Why call it a locking ring when it doesn’t locking your die settings?
I do crimp 2 cartridges of my own 458 WM and 308 Win. for my 7400.
I was wondering if crimping Hammer’s was really to build pressure too seal off the bullet quicker when engraving the rifling. They have very little bearing surface.
 
This is what I hate with Lee. Why call it a locking ring when it doesn’t locking your die settings?
I've found most all rings that come on dies lacking no matter the manufacturer. I upgraded everything to these a couple years back and they're super solid.

 
Hornady has it right. I’ve replaced most of my locking rings with them. I don’t know what’s worse Lee’s o-ring that falls off and doesn’t lock or a set screw that locks the die with a piece of shot.
 
I was wondering if crimping Hammer’s was really to build pressure too seal off the bullet quicker when engraving the rifling. They have very little bearing surface.
Very little indeed, especially on the absolute hammers. I've put somewhere around 80 of them through the 308 WIn and copper fouling is almost nonexistent. This is a rough Win XPR barrel.
 
I've shot a lot of Hammer bullets and like to experiment, always trying to squeak out that last bit of accuracy/consistency.
IME, if you start by using a seating depth that maximizes surface contact within the neck and use sufficient neck tension (.003" should do it) then the benefit of crimping is overstated. In fact, I have seen crimping with a Lee FCD decrease consistency when direct comparisons were made. Crimping adds a new variable that you usually can live without. What kind of crimp; roll crimp, taper crimp, FCD crimp? And how much crimp; just a touch, enough to notice, something more firm? Are all of your cases exactly the same length; because crimp pressure will vary if case length varies. Should you crimp on a PDR peak or in a PDR groove? Will it make a difference?

These are just some of my observations with regard to crimping Hammer bullets, but it's true of crimping most bullets.

So, while many Hammer fans are quick to advocate for crimping, my experience has simply found that the results of crimping can't be pre-determined. I have some loads that have benefitted by crimping by showing more consistent velocities and tighter groups while others that showed a distinct preference for just using sufficient neck tension and no crimp. I have seen where crimping caused a low SD load to become a rather high SD load.

My advice - start with a good amount of bearing surface in the neck and good neck tension. See how the load shoots. THEN try using a crimping method to see if it improves performance. If performance improves; then GREAT. But if there is no improvement or crimping degrades consistency/accuracy then just abandon the idea and go back to your usual method of finding the most accurate load for your rifle.

Good luck either way.
 
Sound reasoning, Charlie.
When you tinker endlessly, you learn a few things. LOL

I have several Lee FCDs due to all the promotion of using them with Hammer bullets. Most are collecting a little dust lately, but I haven't discounted them entirely for Hammer bullets because they can work. Mostly, I crimp 45-70, 458SOCOM and pistol bullets.
 
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