Handloads for a Bushmaster (308 and 223)

Mike Fontaine

Beginner
Feb 28, 2006
129
0
I recently purchased 2 Bushmaster Rifles (one in 308 and the other in 223). I was reading the disclaimer on their website about Warning: Do not use handloads or reloaded ammo in the Bushmaster Rifles because of possible damage and will void the warrantee. Does anyone out there handload for a Bushmaster Rifle and know the specifics of the company's concerns. Any info would be great and I will post this question in the Rifle Forum as well. Thanks, Mike
 
I have one in 5.56 nato (223). My manual says the same thing. My owners manual for my kimber hand guns says don't use reloads also.
I think that is their way of saying if you blow up their gun with your reloads you are responsible. :shock:
I have read you should not reload your 5.56 at 223 pressures and velocities because it can tear up your reciever. The Hornady manual has a section just for the AR-15.
 
Sir, I am gonna chime in here because I would like to see you having a good time with your rifles. I also have a Bushmaster in 223 or 5.56, whatever. All that mumbo jumbo about not using reloaded ammo is nothing but lawyer speak ok. you really think Kimber, colt, Bushmaster, and 40 other gunmakers don't know WE ALL use handloads of some sort???? There is no real difference in these rifles. 5.56 is just the military designation of the .223 Remington round. Nothing more. Now, this is not to say that 5.56 ammo in MIL SPEC is not loaded to greater pressures than your regular old green box, or whatever color you happen to buy off the shelf. It is loaded like that because in the heat of battle and dirt and such, the guns tend to get less care than your pristine model 700 varmint rifle in the safe. The hotter ammo functions better and with more regularity in the M-16's, M-4's and SAW M-249's that we all are packing around the quiet suburbs of Iraq and Afghanistan.
So, for your uses, disregard 99% of what you hear and read on forums about reloading 5.56 to lower pressures, blah, blah, blah...the only thing you need to watch out for in this regard is if your using MILITARY BRASS, you need to back off your powder charges by at least 10%. Trust me on this, I let a couple pieces of military brass get into a batch of plinking ammo I was cranking out on my Dillon press and the Bushmaster ripped off the extractor rim from the first one I touched off in the rifle. Lesson well learned. The ammo was at higher pressure because of the BRASS THICKNESS, not some caliber difference ok.
As for your loading, try a Hornady V-Max 55 or 60 grainer. the 60 grainer LOVES Winchester 748 at 25.0 grains, and for the 55 grain bullet, load 27.0 grains. I fired a .197 inch group with mine using that 55 grain load, but it was a lucky thing for me since I haven't been able to do it again. They do shoot under 1 inch regularly if I hold still and breathe right. I am using the 60 grain bullet about all the time right now though because I am hoping to run across a wolf here in Alaska. Hopefully, that round will do the job, but those wolves are tough..
Good luck to you and buy a couple more loading manuals. Especially a Hornady one. No offense to Nosler, heck, I have 4 of their manuals, but the Hornady has data for the AR's like old #7 posted. just be careful and have at it!
 
I have handloaded for my .223 Bushmaster from day one. I was going to mention the same thing however. I have seen that Hornaday has a section specific for the AR. I have loaded several rounds, mostly 50 and 52grn bullets at max with no issues.
My only issue with this unit is in extreme cold temps...ten to thirty below. Try and find a " clean " burning powder if your going to use it a lot in those conditions.
 
Powerstroke":2gflb2d8 said:
I have seen that Hornaday has a section specific for the AR. I have loaded several rounds, mostly 50 and 52grn bullets at max with no issues.
My only issue with this unit is in extreme cold temps...ten to thirty below. Try and find a " clean " burning powder if your going to use it a lot in those conditions.

Powerstroke, I agree with you on this, a clean powder is paramount to having dependability. I wouldn't bother using 748 if it wasn't so accurate. But I do a lot more hunting with mine, than just shooting. since I clean frequently, I don't have to worry too much about the dirt.
 
This was one of those guns that I've wanted for a long time, pretty much just to say I have one ( I'm sure most can understand that ) This one is used when I know it's going to be a rough trip and only used for hunting.
I started with the 748 and yes is awesome.... measures easy shoots excellent, but have since switched to Viht. Much cleaner and seems to like the cold weather.

Question however...... will excessive pressure show up on this firearm just like a bolt-action? Flattened primers etc? or will there be damage to the action?
 
stroke, I know what you mean by "just to say you got one". I have been in the Air Force for almost 18 years and I am like a 12 year old boy every time I have to go through the yearly course and fire for record. as for pressures, yu will get the flatter, or flattened primers for sure, plus they will "puddle" into the firing pin opening some..you'll know..
But the problem is that pressures sometimes don't manifest itself in the normally visible ways, so it's best to stick to known good load data. That's why Nosler, Hornady, Seer, etc, etc, etc, ALL spend buckets of money on research for this stuff. It wouldn't pay to tell folks to take a primed case, scoop it across the powder that looks neat to them and scrape it off the top, and seat a bullet! The powder and bullet manufacturers wouldn't stay in business too long like that. Hence, the research, and all those warnings. But the great thing is this about small rifle cases, and pistol cases to boot; it's impossible to double charge a case with ANY LISTED powder charge. it flows all over the case, down the press arm, and messes your process up. This is good because it reminds us to use our best sense of all, sight. As for the bolt, and action of an AR-15, they are tough, and you have to be reminded that it can go full auto and get the barrel hot enough to dang near droop. i have done it, and thousands of Army and Marines are abusing the he** out of them every day in Iraq. All with ammo that is hotter than anything me and you can duplicate without being stupid. and they don't break. The design is set up so the gases blow out and down the magazine well and into the mag. I have seen a couple that had cases explode like this and the gun is not USUALLY damaged, but the magazine is in bad shape!

Hey, which Vihtavouri powder do you use for the 223?? I have never tried any of it just because I was afraid to buy 2 lbs of something that might not do well.
 
I'm using the Viht N-140.
Actually was the first Viht I had bought and used it in my 22-250. I love the stuff !! Expensive due to the 2lbs cans, but it goes a long ways in those little cases.
I appreciate the info on the pressure issue !
 
Powerstroke, thanks to you foer the VIT info. I need to try some of that stuff. I had heard from some folks I know back in Virginia that shoots in the submachine gun matches and he said it was the cleanest powder going. also, that in these matches, he is about the only guy that don't have to scrub his sub gun down between matches. interesting..
 
Hey,
I did forget to mention, that the N-140 I only use with the 55gr BlitzKings.
I've had good luck with Viht in my .280 and .300RUM as well. It meters real well too!
 
I have heard that all of their powders are spherical, or ball, and no stick...anybody know if this is true?
 
All my experience is with the spherical style. It appears to be a very "dry" type powder. Pours down the funnel very easily...... Then again, I'm in a very dry climate!
 
Yeah Powerstroke, it's dry enough in my house here in Anchorage that I have to be careful of static electricity. The powder many times won't even shake back out of the RCBS powder measure tube.
You know, sometimes you just don't feel like fooling with stick powders for small neck cases like the 22'.
 
WHELENATOR,
Forgive me, it's a Monday ! The N-140 & N-165 I use is a cylindrical powder, not spherical. I know what you mean about the static and sticking to the measure / funnel, a lot of my IMR powder has done that, but not yet with the Viht !
 
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