Does anyone have any experience with a Ruger #1 and the Hick's #1 Accurizer block, Pro or Con? If you do, Did you install it yourself or have a smith do it? I've got a 1B in a 280 that just doesn't shoot as well as I think it should and am considering adding one of these.
Hick's #1 Accurizer
- Thread starter grry10
- Start date
Guy Miner
Master Loader
- Apr 6, 2006
- 17,824
- 6,278
No - I've read that it works well, but I've never used one. Both of my Rugers shoot well without it, so I'm leaving things as they are.
Guy
Guy
Bruce Mc
Handloader
- Oct 26, 2005
- 1,295
- 655
I installed a Jard trigger in my number 1 and I'm considering trying the Hicks accurizer. I've read several very positive reviews. Some have just inletted the block and some have epoxy bedded the block. Maybe someone will speak up here.
salmonchaser
Ammo Smith
- Dec 13, 2013
- 5,092
- 5,384
I’ve done three; all offered improvement in group size. My 257 Roberts really needed it; it would start stringing after the second shot. It will go five rounds now at under an inch. The 7x57 sorta needed it, shot ok but I wasn’t happy. I was trying to turn it into a bench rest rifle. It is now shooting just under moa and it has a Jard trigger. 300 HH needed it the least starting out but responded by delivering a .25 and change 6 shot group at 300 yards just before hunting season. It has the Hicks, a jard trigger as well as bedding both the hicks and forward end of the spring hanger and bedding the back of the foreend to the receiver. You will want to bed the hicks into the channel you create. Work slow. I would also contact Ruger and get a replacement stud for the forend, the metal piece the screw goes through in the fore end. It’s likely youll hit it with your router. Easy to repair and thinking about it, a guy could probably tap it out before starting. Ruger didn’t even charge me shipping.
The 375, 204 and 22250 will not need the work. Perhaps the Trigger. If you can change your own tires you can install the trigger but I would get a proper set of punches before starting.
The 375, 204 and 22250 will not need the work. Perhaps the Trigger. If you can change your own tires you can install the trigger but I would get a proper set of punches before starting.
- Oct 30, 2004
- 24,373
- 3,256
At some point (some on here will remember) I was on a huge Ruger #1 kick!!! I had no less than 12 at one time. From 223 to 458 Lott!
Most of them shot great from the factory. A couple did not but after the Hicks was installed they were close than 1/2 MOA. It works well if correctly installed. My gunsmith installed mine. The thought of me drilling the access hole in the forearm myself made me quiver.....
Most of them shot great from the factory. A couple did not but after the Hicks was installed they were close than 1/2 MOA. It works well if correctly installed. My gunsmith installed mine. The thought of me drilling the access hole in the forearm myself made me quiver.....
Bruce Mc
Handloader
- Oct 26, 2005
- 1,295
- 655
I'm good with bedding a bolt rifle but I'm not confident in doing a #1. My varmint swift shoot 1/2" as is, I'd like bug holes. I'm on the fence here.
- Oct 30, 2004
- 24,373
- 3,256
I would not touch it!
I did one Hicks on a custom Number One I bought. Purtiest little #1 you ever saw. A 20 barrel in .223 Rem. off a Rem. M7, custom wood with 28 lines to the inch checkering, Custom steel buttplate and grip cap and carried like a dream. Only problem was pretty does not make it shoot good. I installed a Hicks accurizer to no avail and even had my gunsmith install a new barrel. Still wouldn't shoot. A guy wanted the gun and I told him about how poorly it grouped. He waved enough green in m faced that I finally le him have it. Guess he's happy and it's been ay least seven years since the sale and I haven't heard from my. My only regret is it would have been my perfect desert walkabout rifle.
Paul B.
Paul B.
