Just a couple questions

[goose25]

Hi guys,
I'm just getting into reloading and I have a couple questions Im hoping you can help me with.:grin:


I picked up the Lyman reloading handbook and have a RCBS Starter Kit on it's way. I'm also heading out to my local gun shop this week to pick up a couple items that is needed to begin;

RCBS KIT;
* Reloader Special-5 Press
* 5-0-5 Scale
* Case Loading Block
* Case Lube Kit
* Primer Tray-2
* Powder Funnel
* Deburring Tool
* Speer Reloading Manual #13

to buy list;
* .30-06 Lee deluxe Die set
* Lee case trimmer, w/case lenght gauge + shellholder
* Primer pocket cleaner
* Lee auto prime + shellholder
* Powder Trickler
* vernier caliper
* Bullets, Powder, Brass, Primers

Future to buy list;
* Chronograph
* Bullet Puller



Am I missing anything?


I was told by a velvet 'stached 18 year old clerk at a gun shop that I would need to replace the lock rings on the Lee die's? Is this true?


How Do I determine the maximum cartridge length for my rifle? And how do I determine the right "Distance to lands" when seating a bullet? Being a NOOB, Should I be concerned with this? Can someone point me in the right direction or shed some light on this subject?


I would like to work up a practice load with cheaper bullets that will mimic my more expensive hunting loads. I mostly hunt Whitetail and black bear with this particular rifle. Some/most of you might suggest that I do not need a premium bullet for CXP2 class game at .30-06 velocities, But I have had the unfortunate experience of losing a black bear in the past, which had been shot at 20 yards with a 180gr core-lokt. was it bullet failure? Was it the man behind the gun? I'll never know. All I can say is that it sucks, and from that moment on I decided that I rather spend an extra couple bucks on Premium bullets for hunting purpose's rather than risking the chance of wounding an animal and failing to recover it.


It seems that there have been reports as to the lack of expansion with the Barnes TSX on deer sized game. Therefore, I'm leaning towards a premium bonded bullet like the Partition, AccuBond or Interbond for hunting...what are your thoughts? I usually encounter close range shoulder shots on blackies and 30-250 yard shots on whitetails (usually -100yards).


For my practice loads I am undecided between an over-the-counter Match grade bullets or regular core-cup bullets. Keeping in mind that every rifle likes a particular load/bullet/etc.... Generally speaking, does a match grade bullet offer noticeable superior performances when shooting at targets up to and including 200yards? Is the extra cost, (even though it can seem minimal) worth it?


These are the Match bullets that I would have a look at;

Sierra 168gr Matchking
Hornady 168gr A-max
Hornady 168gr BTHP Match
Speer 168gr BTHP Match


The Sierra MK seems to be a crowd favorite. But I'm having a hard time getting my hands on them at a resonable price in Montreal. I Have the privilege to be a short drive away from Higginsons powders (Canadian Hornady supplier), and could pickup some hornady's at a reasonable price. I got the impression that the Speer BTHP isn't a crowd favorite? Is there a reason?

Keeping in mind my particular situation, Which bullet would you recommend?

any and all other suggestions you may have are appreciated and welcome

 

[longwinters]

You have a lot of questions. Just like me a few years ago :lol: I know a lot of guys like Lee, Personally I prefer RCBS dies. But you can get a Hornady cam lok bullet puller for under 20.00. Instead of the RCBS lube, use OneShot or one of the other spray on lubs. Much nicer to work with especially in clean up.

As far as Over all length of your cartridges get a Stoney Point Bullet Comparitor. You can do the same thing with a magic marker etc... but the Stoney point is, in my experience, a better way to go. Finally, remember, you can buy twice (once cheap and later move up) or save yourself the money and just buy the better stuff up front.

By the way :wink: the powder trickler is the most often bought and later never used tool on the reloaders bench.

One last thing . . . think RCBS TRIM MATE
Long

 

[Richracer1]

I too second the use of RCBS dies, especially the X-Sizer die. Look into it, they are well worth the extra money.

 

[Powerstroke]

++1 I also am in favor of the RCBS dies. I know there are a lot out there, that don't like them, but 20+ years they haven't let me down.

I've also shot a lot of SMK's with great sucess. If all I was shooting was paper in competition, then yes that is all I would shoot.

You may want to look into the Berger VLD's however.

 

[puccini]

I respect RCBS quality and have many of their die sets.

But when you consider "bank for the buck" Lee dies are well worth the money.
If you plan to load a lot of one caliber then get the RCBS dies but if you have a caliber you don't load a lot, save the bucks and go with Lee.

Saying that, I know many reloader that swear by Lee even when they load a lot of rounds for one caliber.

Also, when you first start reloading Sierra Match Kings are the way to go but once you have some experience experiment with bullets from other manufacturers.

Among people in all hobbies and sports, there are rumor, legends,and propaganda.

SMK's are legendary but for what purpose? f your hunting white tails at 100-200 yds, then there are many bullets you can use , all equally well for the job.

At 600 yds, they are essential.

Don't just throw money at reloading, experiment and find cost effective solutions for it.

When I first started, if I knew what I know now, I could have saved enough money to buy that really great rifle I have in mind.

 

[goose25]

Thanks for all the replies guys, It's much appreciated!!

I've added the Imperial sizing wax and a bullet puller to the list.

Is a powder trickler a handy reloading tool? Do I NEED a powder dispenser? The cost of equipment is adding up fast, I'd like to have a couple bucks leftover for components when Im done. Is a powder measure and/or Trickler Necessary? can I make due without one for now? Can I improvise (safely)?

To help me find a good match between a hunting bullet and a practice bullet, I've been looking closely at the ballistic Coefficiency of several bullets. It seems like the 180gr Interbond (B.C = 0.480, S.D = 0.271)is a close match to the cheaper 180gr Speer spitzer Sp (B.C = 0.483, S.D = 0.271). The 165gr AccuBond (B.C = 0.475, S.D = 0.248) and inexpensive 165gr Speer BTSP (B.C = 0.477, S.D = 0.248)are another good match. The 180gr Speer SP is a flat base bullet and the Interbond has a boat tail base, can I expect different performances even though they are a good match on paper? How much importance should I designate to these findings?

 

[Powerstroke]

In my opinion, the powerder trickler is a MUST. I measure every load !
You'll get discouraged in a hurry if your trying to imporvise in that area.
My other opinion on bullets........accubonds and ballistic-tips are very accurate bullets. If you not hunting very large game.....elk, bear etc. use the balistic tips. A little less expensive. Don't expect the ballistic tips to shoot the same as the accubonds......at least mine don't.

 

[Val]

Bullet seating depth is another one of those things that vary riflr to rifle. I always start at the manual recommended Overall Length (OAL) and determine which powder at what powder charge gives me the tightest three shot group (I use 3 shot groups because I develop hunting loads .
After three shots , if the game isn't dead it's probably long gone or you have a tracking job to do.) Once I determine the powder and charge, I then load additional rounds with the selected powder and charge and I increase the bullet OAL by 10 thousandths increments. I then head back to the range and then select the OAL which yields the best groups.

 

[Desert Fox]

I always use Hornady and Redding dies until a friend gave me an old Lee for my 308. What an eye opener it was. I really like the the design of the die, especially the expander ball or actually, more like a mandrel. The die were kind of cheap because of the aluminum parts that's on them, but I don't see it as an issue. I planned originally to buy me a set of Redding Competition Die for this rifle but, after seing the group made by the rifle using the Lee Die, I decided I didn't need the Redding.

 

[Britz]

Hello, I am new to the site, but I have been loading various calibers since '93 during my spare time. (I know I am certainly not the most experience on this site, I thought you may want to know who you are dealing with).

First of all, buy a good manual and read it several times!!! it will help (there are only about 50-100 pages of text in most of them. I like Speer, and Nosler, but there are many good ones. (You should get at least one large manual to get the basics, and your tradjectory tables. Then you can get the less expensive compilation manuals that are caliber specific.

I prefer to use RCBS, and more recently Redding, dies because Reddings are a little more user friendly.

I don't use a trickler because they don't seem to be that accurate. I use my Pdr measure set a couple grains light, dispence it into the scale and then I use another scale scoop to trickle it in. ( it will depend on what kind of powder you are using, I think the trickler works well w/ the small round ball type powders).

BTW, ANY LOADS THAT ARE USING CYLINDRICAL POWDER should be individually weighed since they don't volume out consistantly.

Depending on how much your are going to load, and spend, you may want to look into a good RCBS case trimmer system, You can get a much cheaper system made by Lee. The RCBS is @ $100 and will do most cartidges, whereas the Lee will be a fraction of the cost and is caliber specific.

My best advice is to start small and see if you like it, then find a knowledgeable salesman to talk to who you can trust. Good luck and good shooting!