Just Gettin' Started

[TRIC]

Well, finally getting in muzzleloading. Got myself a 54 cal percussion. I have tried to figure out all the necessary range items I will need as well as minimum items needed for in the field. Figured the best bet was to ask help from those that have been doing it for a while. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance...

 

[JDMAG]

well first off what all do you already have, and what model /brand gun is it? gotta have pics too :grin:

 

[TRIC]

Well, rifle is a Lyman Deerstalker stainless 54 cal. Have nothing but the gun. picking up things I "need" this weekend. Problem is, not sure what I need...Oh, will get pics up soon.

 

[JD338]

TRIC

Congratulations on the smoke pole.

The best thing to get is a starter kit. It will have all the must haves to get started.

What you need is-

Bullets- Lead ball w/ patch, lead conical bullet or jacketed bullet with Sabot

Powder- Hodgdon 777 is a good one to start with

Percussion caps

Powder Measure (volume)

Bullet Starter

Bullet Puller

Nipple Pick

Cleaning Supplies-
I really like T/C Cleaning Solvent and Bore Butter

Patches

Cleaning Patch Jag

I think I got it all but if I missed something, maybe someone else will pick up on it.

JD339

 

[TRIC]

JD, thanks, have been makin' a list, and yours covers things I haven't thought of. I plan on using lead conical bullets for everything, that's all that's leagle in Washington. Have been reading about different types of powder, 2F, 3F, etc. Which should I consider/use?

 

[JDMAG]

dont forget a nipple wrench, and a primer holder, make sure you get one for the proper primer/cap. #11, musket, or 209.
I'm sure we are forgetting something,
Oh! a nice possibles bag! 8)

 

[TRIC]

Sounds like another couple hundred dollars from now, I'll be ready to go to the range...Ain't shootin' fun???

 

[YoteSmoker]

JD338 has given you some really good info on what you need to get started. The TC cleaning solvent is called Number 13 and you can even get pre-soaked cleaning patches in a can. I would also recommend a brass bore brush but you should be fine without one if you stick to 777 or other less corrosive powder. You will also need a powder flask or at least a can funnel with cap for your powder canister. I think mine is made by Butler creek. Speed loaders are also very handy under hunting conditions. It's just a plastic tube that holds your pre-measured powder, bullet or ball, and a cap. I always have two in my pocket when hunting for quick reloading.

You will want to use 2F equivelant powder. 3F is faster and better suited for black powder pistol.

One important tip to remember in the world of muzzleloading is "Powder First!" This will save you from having to use that nifty bullet puller if you practice saying this to yourself. I do all the time LOL. Another important tip is as soon as you figure out what load you will be shooting, etch or tape your ramrod with it seated down against the charged bullet with a clean barrel. This will ensure you have everything seated nice and snug (no gap between charge and bullet) and also insurance that you didn't accidently stuff two bullets or roundballs down the pipe.

Some tips for later on when you get ready to hunt: Keep your powder dry! Both at the muzzle end (a piece of electrical tape over the muzzle) and at the flash hole/cap end. It is legally considered unloaded as long as the cap is off. Be sure if there is a charged round in your gun to keep it in the vehicle or garage. Bringing it in the warm house will cause condensation in the cold metal and cause moisture to your charge.

I think you made a good choice with the caliber and it will work fine on elk even with roundballs, however, if it is a 28-32 twist you should find good accuracy and better energy using maxi balls, maxi hunters, sabots, and bullets.

Welcome to the challenging and rewarding sport of muzzleloading!

 

[JD338]

yote,

Thanks for the correction.....

I have used T/C #13 and Bore Butter in my M700 and T/C Omega. Both clean up in a snap and the bores are spotless! IMHO, its the only way to go.

When I first got into black powder, I had a T/C White Mountain Carbine 50 cal. I used Goex 3F powder. My child bride was never a happy camper when I cleaned in in the garage. The sulfur really stunk up the garage.

With 777 and the #13/Bore Butter method I clean them in my work shop and the boss never says a word.

JD338

 

[tkeveney]

Don't forget to buy lots of cleaning patches - even the modern blackpowder substitutes are very dirty. You will spend more time cleaning it than shooting it.

Avoid any cleaners which contain water. If you use a water based cleaner, dry the bore thoroughly, and put some oil or grease on it right away.

TC makes a foaming bore cleaner which works well, but it contains water. The instructions will tell you to let it soak overnight for stubborn fith. DON'T DO THAT! If you leave it in the bore overnight it will rust.

 

[YoteSmoker]

tkeveney, He is shooting a sidelock. Even in my TC Encore, I never, never use oil based solvents. Just like JD338, the only cleaning/lube products I use is TC No 13, TC Borebutter, Win breechplug grease, and screaming hot water. Get it hot and it will dry out fast then patch it out and coat it down with a film of borebutter. I have never had any issues with rust in my stainless steel inline. In fact my bore looks like a mirror! I'm gonna have to error on the side of T/C on this.

One note of interest, Borebutter is FDA approved. It smells like really powerful tee berries but I'm too much of a wimp to find out what it tastes like lol.

 

[JDMAG]

note of interest, Borebutter is FDA approved. It smells like really powerful tee berries but I'm too much of a wimp to find out what it tastes like lol.

It's a fine line between wimpyness and :grin: intelligence!