Lead Sled Question

Vince

Handloader
May 26, 2012
4,829
1,585
I probably put this in the wrong place but I have two rifles I need to zero and being that they are harder kickers than my .338 Win Mag I was wondering how my weight to put in my lead sled?

One is a .416 Remington Magnum and the other is a .375 Ruger. Neither has a muzzle brake.

Vince
 
I've heard that a lead sled with too much weight in the pan and a really hard kicking rifle can cause the stock to break due to the sled not giving a little. I've never used a lead sled even when shooting the .404 Jeffery or the .416 Rigby in Ruger #1 rifles. In my opinion, both rifles could stand a bit more weight.
When I was shooting them, I'd use a magnum size Past recoil pad and use a couple of cinder blocks on the bench to raise the level so that I'm shooting from a standing position. I had both sighted in for 100 yards using the open sights but always practiced off hand at 25 yards as if it were a charging buffalo or some other nasty critter. My Ruger #1 in .375 H&H I just shot off the bench like any other ordinary rifle. The .375 Taylor (.375/338 win. mag.) gives the exact same ballistics as the .375 H&H but the rifle based on a Ruger M77 tanger in a Ramline stock is pretty uncomfortable to shoot from the bench or standing offhand due to the light weight of the rifle. Needless to say, I don't shoot them anymore due to old age, my old age.
PJ
 
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I stopped putting much weight on to my sled. I was worried about stressing the stock. I have no proof other then by design a shoulder moves with the recoil and if I stopped the movement, then those forces are pretty harsh on the stock.
 
Caldwell offers bags that are designed to fit the lead sleds that you can fill with whatever you choose, such as sand or lead shot, depending on the model you're using they also have bags that can hold water.
 
Thanks guys.
My concern is if I use too much weight that I’ll break the stock. After I get the .416 zeroed on the sled I’ll shoot off sticks and standing up to zero the rifle.
I’m just trying to make it as easy as I can on myself trying to get these two rifles zeroed with the new scopes. Well, one scope and a RDO.

Vince
 
Sterling Davenport, the now retired custom rifle maker made a lot of bigger bore dangerous game rifles and usually scoped them and used the lead sled to help with recoil. I notices that while he used the sled, I never saw any weights in the pan. I did know the man well enough to talk to hm at the range and always wants one of his rifles. Through a strange quirk of fate, the gunsmith building my .208 Rem. got hurt in an accident and farmed my rifle off to someone else to finish. One day at the range, I was talking to Mr. Davenport about my new rifle and he asked to see it. He asked where did I get it and I told him my gunsmith had an accident and farmed the gun off to someone else. Turned out it was Sterling Davenport and I actually got one of his beautifle rifles. Sometimes I just get lucky.
PJ
 
Guns recoil differently, and often print differently, when using a weighted lead sled rather than shouldering a rifle without one. I'd confirm POI without the sled once you are done testing ammo. Good luck.

Exactly ... I should have explained a bit more ... I use the sled (or very large shooting/sand bag) when sighting in to get close to zero to remove any induced errors on my part then switch back to my normal hunting mode of prone bipod and/or kneeling, & hasty sling if needed.

Very good point & glad you mentioned that!
 
When you squeeze the trigger on one of those big boys , something has to give. Either it’s you or the stock is how I see it.
Weighted lead sleds are responsible for cracking the wrist of more than a few fine rifle stocks. Today, the market is flooded with strong laminate stocks and/or synthetic stocks which can tolerate a lot more abuse. I rarely see anyone use one at our club anymore, but I guess they still have their purpose.
 
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