Loc-tite delima......

A

Antelope_Sniper

Handloader
Jan 25, 2008
2,618
0
I just picked up a new custom Hunter class .308 in 700 Remmy at the gunshow today. I couldn't buy the parts for what I payed for it...so I figured why not?

Well, somehad done a little work on the trigger, setting it to 2 oz....which is nice for competition, but I want to set it a little different for the field.

Well, the screws are held in place with RED loc-tite.....and I would kind of like to adjust them without ruining the trigger.... Anyone know of a way to disovle the loc-tite??
 
Use a torch.
Red lock tite is supossed to be permenant.
You will have to keep the heat on as you work the screw.
You might try to back it out then in and back out again in quarter turn increments.
You will have to get it HOT but not red.
 
Same problem I'm having right now with the rifle I just bought...I cant break the trigger screws loose, or the ring screws to take the scope off. I've tried all sorts of screwdrivers, but I just keep buggering up the screws. I"m starting to get a little pi$$ed...Why in the world you need to loc tite ring screws on a 25-06 is beyond me, trigger as well...

I'm uneasy about the torch idea. I dont want to ruin the scope by getting it to hot or something, same with the trigger.
 
Corbins idea looked pretty interesting. I did an internet search and discovered that acetone, which I have, is the main compent of the solvent he recommended. It sure cleaned up the excess around the screws really nice (thanks for the tip 8) )The only problem there is getting it into the threads..... :?

I can see where the torch might work....but me and a torch, and a stamped trigger :shock: I'd feel much better if I was applying that torch to a chunk of cast iron......
 
Can you take the trigger group out and soak it in acetone? I am very ignorant with Remington's in general, but we used to soak our target rifle (anschutz, walther, and WInchester) triggers in rubbing alcohol to keep them clean. Just an idea.

Rob
 
I use a torch to get the set screws out of my snowmobiel clutch weights and it works great on loc tight (blue though). I think that a cutting tourch or even a hand held butane torch would be very much over kill. You might try a lighter, it doesn't take a large amount of heat to weeken the loc tight in my experiance, but you do want it hot. Or maybe try an electric wood burner/soddering iron held on the head of the screw for a while, would be alot more precise placement of the heat. Maybe...i don't know.

Good Luck
 
Heat is generally the best method to deal with red thread locker.

If it was me I would not use a torch on any rifle trigger unit. Even a propane torch produces excessive heat in most cases. On trigger units as you may ruin the temper on the springs ect. in there.

A heat gun with different settings is a good investment when working on guns, cars, trucks ect. They will do the job generally on low setting given a little time. Harbor Freight sells a heat gun for around $20.00 that has two settings a 630F and 1000F. It seems to work just as good as an expensive one I have at work. I've also seen heat guns as Lowes but I think they are around $80.00 there. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=35776
 
remingtonman_25_06":1fuet09r said:
Hmmm, never thought of the lighter. I think I might give that a try after I get off work...
Click to expand...

I'd try a hair dryer first before you start with an open flame. Hunter Jim's heat gun idea is the best solution.

JD338
 
Red lock tite holds up to the heat when used on exaust manifold bolts.
Blue lock tite will keep a bolt or nut from loosening up but still enable a guy to take the assembly apart fairly easily.
Blue lock tite responds very well to heat. Use a propane torch and apply some heat. You don't need to have it on high and it doesn't take much to loosen the bond.
red on the other hand is a whole different animal. You will have to heat it up and keep it hot.

You could always drill out the screws and tap the hole for new ones.
That might be the best option for the scope rings.
 
I am probly going to just get a timney trigger for this rifle if the hair dryer or lighter dont work.

I also think I'm gonna drill the screws out from the scope rings as well. I"ll just have to buy another set, its only $20-25. I dont want the 4-12 leupy on there, I want the 6-18 leupy with target knobs.
 
Thanks for all the great idea.
I drive past Harbor Freight everyday on my way home from work, so I was going to try anything I think it would be the heat gun.

I took the rifle out to the range today, and the trigger wasn't near as bad once I got it up on the bench. I just wanted to get an idea for what it might do, so I threw together some loads. 47gr BLC (2) behind 150 gr, NBT, NAB, and NCC, with some CCI-br2, in Winchester brass.
First group was .35" :grin:
Best group was .15" :eek: Those were both with the balistic tips.
Accubonds shot .6" :)
and the Custom Comps shot .9":?

With those results, I think I'm just going to leave well enough alone....
 
If you do decide to use a heat gun on your scope mounts you shouldn't.
A heat gun will not give you much control over heat placement. It's going to heat a wide area including your scope. I dont't think your scope will put up with the temperature.
A fine tipped torch would allow you to place the heat in a smaller area than a heat gun. Wrap a wet cloth around your scope to absorb the excess heat. The torch will also heat very fast where a heat gun will take longer to heat the desired area and will also heat the surrounding areas too.

But... It sounds like your rifle and scope combo is working so why fix it
 
In addition to Jungle Jim's comment about the springs, a butane or propane flame can also crystallize the material in the stamped pieces and make them extremely brittle. Those small parts can only absorb so much heat before the thermal strain is irreversable. Not saying it can't be done, but it is very easy to cross the line.
 
Use a soldering iron. First clean the tip with steel wool. You don't want to transfer any solder to the threads. Your heat will be focused on the direct area you want heated up.

Aaron
 
Get'er done yet??? Or still fighting?? I know impact helps soften it, but that isn't at all helpful.
 
Thanks for asking JT....I decided to leave well enough alone, and just get used to the light trigger...it's shooting under .2" 8) , so I'm not going to mess with a winning combination.
I hope Rem man had some luck with his similar issue.
 
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