M1 Garand Loads?

[accur8]

Looking for "tried and true" loads using IMR 4895 and both 150 and 165 grainers.

Most likely be using Nosler Custom or Lapua brass and have CCI, Federal, and Winchester primers on hand.

Not new to reloading just this 30-06 cartridge.

Oh, another quick question. Should I resize with a small base or standard sizer?

Thanks in advance,
Mike

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk now Free

 

[DrMike]

Welcome aboard, Mike. I don't load for the M1, but there are several people on this forum who do so. I'm certain some of them will be along shortly with some recommendations. You have the right components, it does appear. IMR4895 is a great powder for the Garand, and the 150s and 165s should be just the ticket for that rifle. I do know from past experience that you will have loads that function better with the small base dies. Again, welcome to the forum.

 

[accur8]

Thanks DrMike. I finally got around to using this forum and with rifle season approaching fast, probably gonna be my most used. Thanks again.

Regards,
Mike

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk now Free

 

[wisconsinteacher]

Here is the last load I made up and at 50 yards I could put 8 shots in a 3-4" circle with open sights. (I am not a good open sight shot and I am looking for more fun than accuracy with my M1)

I use Lee dies for my reloading of the 30-06

IMR 4895
44gr
Fed brass
Win LR primers
Hornady 168 HPBT
2.704" at ogive

 

[laylandad]

I use LC brass, CCI#34 primers, 150gr bullets, and 49gr of IMR4895. COL is 3.30".

 

[accur8]

Thanks guys. Much appreciated. Keep em' coming!!

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk now Free

 

[CMBTshooter]

http://web.archive.org/web/200006200557 ... M1load.htm

From the NRA.

 

[1Shot]

I have been loading for the M1 Garand for a long time.
Lesson #1 I learned is DO NOT USE FEDERAL PRIMERS. They are too soft and touchy and you WILL HAVE SLAM FIRE. Been there and done it. I have used CCI 200, CCI BR2. WW, Rem 9 1/2, and Wolf LR and never had any problems.
Standard loads with IMR 4895 with 150/155 gr bullets is between 47 & 49 grs.
With 168 gr bullets 45 to 46 grs IMR 4895 or IMR 4064. When I shot 168s I preferred 46 grs IMR 4064.

My match load for a number of years has consisted of L.C. Match case, 48 grs IMR 4895, CCI BR2 primer, Nosler 155 gr Custom Competition bullet, OAL 3.334 and I use a Lee Factory Crimp Die with a medium crimp. It is very accurate in my M1 Garand as well as two of my 1903A3 Springfields.

I have also learned to scrap my cases after 4 firings with the M1 Garand. It beats the snot out of the rims and after 4 firings I have had extraction and jamming problems because the rims are so beat up.

I have also learned that it takes a clip or two to seat the action really well back into the stock so they start shooting consistently after you take the action out of the stock unless it has been glass bedded. In the vintage rifle shoots I shoot in you can not have a glass bedded rifle. It has to be GI stock rifles. I have learned to leave the action in the stock and use a piece of weed eater line about a foot longer than my barrel and action to clean from the chamber end. Sharpen one end of the line and with a flame melt the other end and push it up against something like a coffee cup to form a button. Stick the sharp end through a patch and pull the patch down to the button end. Dip the patch in your favorite bore solvent and stick the sharpened end into the chamber end and push it down the bore until it come out the muzzle. Grab that end and pull the solvent patch through the bore. Let is work 10 to 15 minutes and pull a clean patch through.

 

[elkeater2]

+1 on everything 1Shot said!

 

[mtwarych]

There is no need for small based dies, the average M-1 military chamber is pretty generous. I use H4895 to load for my and my sons M-1 but we use 150 gr Nosler accubonds for hunting and cheapo 150 gr FMJ for hunting pinecones and the such. My load is 46.7 grains of h4895 with a cci 200 primer with winchester or HXP brass with no crimp. Good luck with your M-1. JW Semper Fi

On a side note, considering the use of Nosler or Lapua brass, The M-1 Garand is known for beating brass to death. I would suggest using a slightly less expensive brass like winchester or once fired HXP brass for loading an M-1 just to save a little money in the long run.

 

[mtwarych]

What am I? a good thread killer it seems. Sorry accur8.

 

[accur8]

What am I? a good thread killer it seems. Sorry accur8.

Not at all. I appreciate the input and in fact will begin loading this week using recipes from all that made recommendations. I am waiting on some once fired less expensive brass to arrive from a friend. Hopefully tomorrow it will show up.

I am pretty stoked about getting to shoot this thing. For me it will only be a recreational shooter cause no semi-autos for hunting in Pa.

Mike

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk now Free

 

[CMBTshooter]

You should shoot some CMP matches, they're really fun.

 

[mtwarych]

A couple of things that have not been mentioned is if you are recieving once fired military brass, the primers may be crimped. I use my brass knurler to remove the crimp because I hate my RCBS primer pocket swage. Second, an M-1 Garand can slamfire although I have never seen it happen. A lot of M-1 shooters feel slamfires are due to high primers. Try to find a primer pocket uniformer to cut the pockets deep enough to ensure no high primers. M-1's tearing brass up also has a lot to due with dirty chambers, get yourself a good multi-tool for the M-1 and a handfull of cheap chamber brushes. I can't remember the designation of the M-1 tool but you can find them at the Garand sites for sale. Same for the cheap chamber brushes. Have a great time with that beast of a rifle you own, it it one of the rifles that can just make you smile no matter what kind of day you are having. Also get in the habit of not field stripping your rifle to clean it, clean the rifle upside down for the bore, wipe the metal with your favorite gun oil and try to field strip it down about once a year unless you know it must be done sooner.

 

[Wincheringen]

I'll be an echo and just agree with most here.

Don't use high dollar brass with the M1, at best it is a 2 MOA shooter and it beats up brass. HXP or other military brass is preferred, RP and Winchester are also good. Hornady is too soft.

IMR/H 4895 is great for 150 grain and lighter bullets, use IMR 4064 for heavier bullets. Varget is a good all around powder.

Small base dies are not necessary and just overwork the brass, standard dies are just fine for the generous chambers.

You can use the loads from Master Po's site without reducing, they are safe as is, you can reduce to lower recoil though.

 

[Polaris]

You've got some good advice on load data.

I tend to avoid military brass fired by others as sometimes it's of unknown pedigree. If you can glom onto some LC or HXP military ammo and shoot it up in your rifle, that is probably the best route to go. Pulldown LC brass is also available. If you have to use new brass, I'm very fond of PRVI Partizan. It is about the least expensive out there and is really top quality, comparable to Lapua or Norma, but lacks the flash hole prep you find on those, you'll have to do that yourself if you choose. Also, some Garands, especially if your barrel is a bit worn, will not shoot as well with boat tail match bullets. I've found mine to be most accurate with Sierra 150 gr Flat Base pro hunters.

Here's a link to Prvi brass in-stock http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/pro ... ctId/12634

Enjoy shooting your piece of history! They truly are great rifles.

 

[accur8]

Just wanted to thank all of you guys for the great advice and expertise with this great shooter.

Wow! I'm pretty impressed with this rifle. Thanks again for all the help.
Mike

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk