Need some advice

[TackDriver284]

RL26 is hard to align in my Wbys. That .4gr sure had a velocity jump for him. Maybe chrono error?

I'll retest it again soon. I'll keep you posted.

 

[gbflyer]

That’s a beast of a load.

I read a guy online quite a bit that has all the pressure testing gear. Taken with the prescribed grain of salt, of course. He states from his extensive testing that book velocity equals book pressure, meaning if you are seeing excessive velocities you are exceeding pressure. Of course longer/shorter barrels make some difference with the generalization of 30-40 fps per inch. Your particular rifle or components may not indicate what we call “pressure signs”.

Seems like a safe way to go.

 

[jimbires]

Thanks Jim. I'll work up some loads from 75 to 75.6 and test again. I like this speed at 3070 fps, and that 3120 fps load was a bit too much for my liking for a 200 grain bullet especially at 75 degrees, imagine when temps gets to 90 degrees, its reason I stopped shooting because of common sense. I was using the 180 Accubonds at 3150 fps with RL22 and it was not a max load, just 1 grain shy of max. It was an accuracy load because the faster speeds was not giving me the accuracy I wanted. I was pushing it to 3260 fps when I was seeing some mild ejector marks.
Hopefully I won't see any velocity / pressure gains once the hot dog days of summer comes. I like this 200 ELD-X bullet.

Would seating the bullet too deep in the case cause pressure? I was surprised to see that I was .020" off the lands and bullet is so deep. I don't think seating longer another .010" will help much. I read that seating a bullet too deep can reduce case capacity, and raise pressure as well. I was heavily crunching powder for those charges.

Mark , a deep seated bullet uses case capacity , so yes it does raise pressure . but you only need to use a little less powder to get the pressure down into the safe working range . if you were to have the rifle throat lengthened , you could use this same amount of powder at a reduced pressure , because you have raised the bullet out of the case , this would increase case capacity . by doing this you would now need to increase powder charge to get back to the same pressure as a deep seated bullet . you would gain a little more velocity by doing this . but now you would get into issues with magazine length , and not being able to reach the lands with shorter bullets .

the two big things with deep seated bullets is , 1) as the case fires a deep seated bullet can get pushed off alignment with the bore of the barrel causing bullet yaw . this can be an accuracy killer . you don't seem to have this problem , by the looks of your groups .
2) seating the bullet through the donut . donuts happen due to brass flow , at the neck shoulder junction . you can keep cutting the donut as they appear , or you can adjust the bushing in your die to not size the neck completely to the shoulder , if using a bushing die .

I hope you can make sense of this . if you have any questions , just ask .

 

[jimbires]

What weighing factor did you use? What shot start numbers did you use? I have never played with shot start.
I used .4 weighing factor and see that I'm approaching the max line. If using .5 weighing factor, I'm over the max line.

weighting factor is a number for case shape , and overbore . I have a chart that seems to be pretty good , it has the 300 win mag listed at 0.39 I tried playing with this number too , but things would not align . a lot of times this weighting factor number is the only thing I tweek and things line up .

shot start is an adjustment for initial pressure . if the bullet is jammed into the lands , or is it a solid copper , or is it solid brass , or is it a coated bullet . I played around with this thinking since your bullet is so long, maybe it's moving into the lands before the initial pressure is high enough to send it down the barrel . acting like it's loaded into the lands . I ended up using 5526 PSI for this setting . this number is nothing more than me playing with the settings trying to get velocity , and powder charge to align . if you hover over shot start box it will light up a yellow info message .

Ba is an adjustment for powder burn speed . fast lot / slow lot / average lot . I don't like to mess here to much . things get out of wack easy . in the past I've played here getting my velocity to align with powder charge , but my pressure was crazy high , something in the 100K + . the rifle didn't show any pressure signs at all so I knew this was not a true estimate of pressure . the original Ba is 0.3415 . I adjusted it to 0.3450 . again this is nothing more than me playing with numbers trying to get things to align .

again , I hope you can make sense out of this . if you have any questions just ask , I'll try my best to answer .

 

[jimbires]

RL26 has been the powder that kicks my tail trying to get things to align and make sense . sometimes it just falls into place , other times no way .


Mark , if I remember right , you use a magneto speed chrony ?

 

[RL338]

RL26 has been the powder that kicks my tail trying to get things to align and make sense . sometimes it just falls into place , other times no way .


Mark , if I remember right , you use a magneto speed chrony ?

I just think QL is off on RL26. You can take any reasonable cartridge and select a bullet and 9 times out of 10 it gives the highest velocity. The biggest thing is all projected runs have 100% burn before you reach any serious pressure. That would make it one clean powder.
As you mention I to have a tuff time getting all the stars to align with it. However it’s still my favorite in the big Wbys

 

[jimbires]

I just think QL is off on RL26. You can take any reasonable cartridge and select a bullet and 9 times out of 10 it gives the highest velocity. The biggest thing is all projected runs have 100% burn before you reach any serious pressure. That would make it one clean powder.
As you mention I to have a tuff time getting all the stars to align with it. However it’s still my favorite in the big Wbys

I like RL26 , it's like canned horsepower .

 

[Lazy Bushman]

What are you planning on hunting and at what distance? if it were mine and hunting dear or pigs, I'd actually load down from your 75.6grains but still look to keep it close to 3000 fps 2950 maybe....to be honest 2900 with good grouping would make me happy as those 200 ELD-X's will drop pigs and deer in the ranges I shoot which max out at 300m'ish with the majority being less than 200. One thing I keep in mind when developing loads is the minimum I need to produce the most effective level of dead. Less pressure the longer the brass and barrel life, though as a hunter you probably won't outshoot your barrel unless you do it for a living.

 

[jimbires]

I just think QL is off on RL26. You can take any reasonable cartridge and select a bullet and 9 times out of 10 it gives the highest velocity. The biggest thing is all projected runs have 100% burn before you reach any serious pressure. That would make it one clean powder.
As you mention I to have a tuff time getting all the stars to align with it. However it’s still my favorite in the big Wbys

we had a member a few years ago , Dewey . Dewey knew quickload . I PM'd with Dewey a few times trying to get up to speed with quickload . the thing is you don't have a question , until you run into a problem . I haven't seen Dewey around for a few years .

 

[TackDriver284]

RL26 has been the powder that kicks my tail trying to get things to align and make sense . sometimes it just falls into place , other times no way .


Mark , if I remember right , you use a magneto speed chrony ?

I use a Oehler P35 chronograph. Only thing I don't like is setting it up and disassembling it when I go but curiosity makes me bring it.

 

[TackDriver284]

I just think QL is off on RL26. You can take any reasonable cartridge and select a bullet and 9 times out of 10 it gives the highest velocity. The biggest thing is all projected runs have 100% burn before you reach any serious pressure. That would make it one clean powder.
As you mention I to have a tuff time getting all the stars to align with it. However it’s still my favorite in the big Wbys

Checked the % burn, it says 100% for my load, which is good clean burn.

 

[JD338]

I use a Oehler P35 chronograph. Only thing I don't like is setting it up and disassembling it when I go but curiosity makes me bring it.

I have the same chronograph. I leave it in the pole barn so I don't have to mess with assembly. Just a short walk to put it up in front of my shooting window in the barn. I'm truly blessed to have this convince.

JD338

 

[jimbires]

that is still a top of the line chrony .

 

[300WSM]

I use a Oehler P35 chronograph. Only thing I don't like is setting it up and disassembling it when I go but curiosity makes me bring it.

That is a fine Chronograph but not impervious to giving an erratic reading or going bad.

At this point before your brain explodes...(i know mine does when i come across an issue like this)

I would set it back up.... shoot your load in question...
If getting the same high velocity readings then shoot a factory round with published data and see what it says.
Even better yet if you can borrow your friend's time and he can being his magneto chronograph ...

Shoot through yours and if he so would allow immediately shoot over his magneto from your gun.

That does several things. Verify your chronograph accuracy and also verifies the specific rifle in question.

Your response earlier...
A couple of weeks ago, I have compared the 3-5 fps ES for the 6BR and the 6.5 Creed with my P35 and a Magnetospeed. My buddy checked my speeds and ES with his MagnetoSpeed and both chronographs was spot on.

BUT.....
that was with a different rifle,different load and most importantly a different time. (Weeks ago)
Electronic equipment can go bad at times with no warning beforehand.

If this were me and I had a willing participant with their magneto chrony I'd do the above test...
That eliminates almost every variable and or possibilities that are in question. The load itself, the rifle, the equipment.
Make sure to shoot a second reload or ideally factory ammo with published velocity doing same shooting over your chrony and your friends.

I'm interested to see your results

 

[TackDriver284]

I have the same chronograph. I leave it in the pole barn so I don't have to mess with assembly. Just a short walk to put it up in front of my shooting window in the barn. I'm truly blessed to have this convince.

JD338

Lucky you.

 

[TackDriver284]

Loaded up 75, 75.3 and 75.6,,,,just need to go and test it.

 

[RL338]

Loaded up 75, 75.3 and 75.6,,,,just need to go and test it.

I bet if you overlay the 3 targets you’ll have 1 nice group of 9 holes. Your rifle is a shooter

 

[jimbires]

Loaded up 75, 75.3 and 75.6,,,,just need to go and test it.

Mark , if you would please post your velocities on these .

 

[TackDriver284]

Mark , if you would please post your velocities on these .

Jim, finally had time today to test these. These are the average velocities. Wind was variable left to right around 12-15. Settled on 75.6 grains to load up. Just a click or two to zero it. Hopefully harvest a nilgai soon. A buddy sent me a pic of some nilgai at his place, and said this one is waiting for me.
75.0 grains - 3,040 fps
75.3 grains - 3057 fps
75.6 grains- 3,082 fps

 

[DrMike]

The accuracy is certainly present. Fine riflery on your part.