New bow recommendations

[c. schutte]

Not sure this is the place for this but there has to be some archery hunters here.

I told myself that if I could get my shoulder rehabbed a new bow would be in order. Short story is I had a shoulder injury in 2013 which led to a frozen shoulder in 2014. Last year I got serious and have been working on it. Finally back to close to where I was prior to the injury and confident I can regain everything in some time.

It's been 8 years since I have bought one so there is some education in order. I hear that there are some good fast bows that are not too noisy and can launch a "realistic" hunting arrow at reasonable speeds.

Anyway, I plan on waiting a few months or more before buying and am interested in what direction this will lead.

Game will be whitetail of course, hogs and maybe elk.

thanks............chs

 

[Anonymous]

I got into archery this year... the new archery equipment is orders of magnitude beyond what was available just a few years ago.

I ended up with a Mathews No-Cam and couldn't be more pleased. It shoots smooth, fast, quiet. I haven't gotten on a big game animal yet, but for grouse it is the cat's pajamas. Hoping to poke a caribou in a couple weeks or a deer next month if all goes well.

 

[alaska100]

It looks like I am going to get a Bowtech Eva Shokey---but I don't think that helps you Charles (-;

Dad said to say hello and good luck on your hunt and health, you are always in our prayers Charles

Brooke

 

[SJB358]

I'd look at Hoyt's Chuck. They are about the top of the heap as far as bows in my opinion. They weren't always the fastest but they were reliable and quiet and seemed to last forever.

Good luck, I'm in the market for a new bow myself.

 

[rjm158]

Chuck, I'd take a hard look at the Mathews No Cam Hodgeman mentioned, The draw cycle is very smooth and would be easier on your shoulder than others would be. This is because the two "wheels" it uses are round instead of oval like cams on most bows are. It's a smooth, steady draw without the perceived "hump" bows with oval cams have.

I owned a 70 pounder and still have a 50 that I use for target shooting. It's amazingly easy to draw and they are extremely quiet as well. Don't let the draw weights concern you because even the 70 felt substantially less than most 70 pound bows do

Be aware, if you are looking for big numbers on a chronograph, the No Cams aren't going to deliver. They weren't built to be a speed bow. This past January, I killed a doe at a lasered 48 yards with my 70 so even though it isn't the fastest, they perform well nonetheless.

Just my .02.

Ron

 

[c. schutte]

Thanks guys,

Ron & Hodgeman, it's my left shoulder and all it need do is hold the bow steady. The right shoulder is fine.
I was looking at the no cam Mathews and while it is not a speed bow, it does have enough to be considered anyway. Thanks for the info.

Scotty, I've always heard good things about Hoyt so they are on the short list. Do you think 70 lbs. & 125 grain broadhead enough for a turkey? :>)

Brooke.........Thanks and tell the old man "right back at him" :>)

 

[Anonymous]

T
I was looking at the no cam Mathews and while it is not a speed bow, it does have enough to be considered anyway. T>)

Yeah- it's not really the fastest bow around, but after shooting a pile of them- easily the easiest bow to shoot well I messed with. I'm getting about 280fps with my 70# turned down to 65# using 100gr heads. Not blistering fast, but twice as fast as the bows from the 70s!

I can't practice at 20 yards or I start tearing up nocks and vanes but 2" groups at 30yds are routinely boring and pie plates at 60yds are normal. And that is much further than I'd feel confident shooting at an animal. After many years of being a rifle hunter I decided to give the bow a try, and so far really love it.

 

[Blkram]

C.Schutte,

I too have shoulder issues and understand what you are going through, as I shoot archery for both competition and hunting. I have also set up new and experienced archers with over 1200 new compound and traditional bows over the past 8 years. I was a Mathews, Hoyt, Bowrech, PSE, Martin, Bear and Athens dealer.

There is quite a bit of info to consider for any individual looking to get set up in a new bow. If you would like to chat over the phone, I will pm you my home phone number.

A few quick facts that you, and others on here may find interesting:

For people with shoulder/elbow/wrist issues - a dual cam bow will impart more shock to your bones and joints during recoil than a single cam bow. And the faster the bow, the more recoil. I will say this; the Bowtech bows with the flexing cable guard do produce a lot less shock than compound bows with fixed cable guard arms. The Hoyt Cam and a 1/2 system is more forgiving than the dual cam bows, but not as forgiving as the Bowtechs that I have just mentioned.

A lighter, faster arrow will also produce more recoil. A heavier arrow will produce less recoil as they make the bow more efficient as more energy is transferred to the arrow, producing less recoil and less noise in your bow. And less of that recoil is transmitted to you.

You may not really "feel" the recoil during the shot sequence, but trust me, your bones and joints will feel it, and you will feel the pain in those joints later that evening.

Speed is not everything is archery. As good as our bow and arrow technology is today (bows launching arrows at 370 foster), the optimum speed for best arrow flight is still 295-300 foster. Bow speeds advertised are with 30" draw lengths, 70# draw weights, and an arrow weighing 350 grains (5 grains of arrow weight/# of draw weight, which is the minimum safe target arrow weight). Hunting arrow weights should be 7-9 grains of arrow weight per # of draw weight in your bow.

For every inch of draw length that you are less than 30", you will lose 10% of that bow speed. I.e. An archer with a 27" draw length will have 30% less velocity. There is no direct correlation to loss of bow speed for less draw weight. Or additional arrow weight.

And it may not make sense at first, but I can share with you that traditional bows do not cause the joint pain after the fact that compound bows do. Partly why I shoot recurve as much as I do. First, the bows are not as fast, second they are more efficient because they typically shoot heavier arrows, making them more efficient and produce less recoil that will be transferred to your bones and joints.

 

[69gto]

mathews

 

[wisconsinteacher]

Bows are like golf club and boots. What feels good to you is all that matters. All of the makers are putting out great bows. Pick the one that you like the feel of the best.

If all else fails, buy a Hoyt and be done with it. (had to add that)

 

[69gto]

Like others have said don't think you have to have maximum speed, it's all about penetration. I shoot a Mathews Switchback at 60 lbs. and have killed 7 bulls at ranges from 4 to 35 yards all were complete pass thrus on double lung shots. I am only shooting about 245 fps. I think my arrow weight is 430 g with 100 g Muzzy. Shoot as many brands as you can because some such as Mathews pull a lot easier than others. If I was buying a new bow it would be a Mathews no cam.

 

[Cleveland48]

Last bow I bought was the Hoyt vector 32 I believe in 2012. I turned it down last year to 65 lbs and my setup right now shoots 278 fps, with gold tips it shoots 288 fps. I shoot grim reaper expandables and at 278 fps has passed through every deer no problem. I'm not sure what all the new bows out this year are. It's hard to go wrong with Hoyt, Mathews, and several others. Best thing you can do is shoot as many as you can then make the choice on which one feels best to you.


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[HTDUCK]

I got back into bow hunting about three years ago.
I bought a used Bowtech Sniper from the classifieds on an archery forum.
Shot it for two years and then shot a buddies Elite archery bow.
Both shoot very well for me but the draw cycle on the Elite is a lot smoother to me than the Bowtech.

Go shoot every bow you can get your hands on and don't get hung up on brand name.
The bow will pick you.

 

[Cleveland48]

Elite does make a very fine bow! Extremely smooth.


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[tddeangelo]

Charles---

I just had my Bowtech Captain take an accidental dinger off a ladder stand and crack a limb.

I can get it fixed, but I went with a new bow now and will do the repairs later, as we are mid-season here.

I love my Bowtech and fully intended to stay with Bowtech. My Captain is/was dead in the hand at the shot and was whisper quiet. Not a speed bow, but deer meat didn't stop the arrows it shot, either.

I shot a new Bowtech BT-X and liked it, but the hand shock/vibration was substantial compared to my Captain.

I also shot an Elite Impulse, Mathews Halon 7, and a Hoyt Defiant.

Despite the largely grumbling reviews on the web about how the Hoyt shoots, I liked it best. I bought a Hoyt Defiant 30. Love it.

The Mathews Halon was fast and quiet, but their grip doesn't feel right to me. And the bow was a bit more shocks in my hand than the others. I was after low hand shock and low noise. Speed was nice to have but not my prime consideration. The Bowtech and Mathews were the fastest to my impressions, but I felt like I'd struggle to shoot them.

The Elite was very good, but was jumpy at full draw. Give even a little relaxation and it wanted to run away on you. Not for me.

But as you know.... you gotta shoot em and then you'll know

The shop I go to has been around longer than I have. I have bought my stuff there since my start. They know me and treat me very well when I need to buy something. The tech I talked to basically said of the various brands "they all have great customer service....pick what you feel you'll shoot best and we will have no issues supporting it if there's a problem."

They will be able to repair my Bowtech too, I just wasn't ready to drop a couple hundred plus a two or three week wait mid season. And I figured once it's fixed I have a spare, and with a 10 week bow season that we have, I should have a spare bow. This is when I get in the vast majority of my hunting time.

I'm sure you'll quickly find one you like. Your wallet won't, though.